Checkin' out Sheki

Wedged between Georgia and Russia, nestled into the foothills of the Casausus Mountains and with the only remotely intact tourism infrastructure in Azerbaijan, Sheki is a stop on almost anyone's visit of Azerbaijan. So with a long weekend for "Armed Forces" day, plus an extra personal day off work, i decided to see what all the hub-bub was about. However, instead of heading right to Sheki, i opted to check out some of the other towns and villages in the area first.
Taking the night train from Baku, and actually by-passing Sheki, my first planned stop was the town of Zaqatala. Typically set at the confluence of a couple mountain rivers, Zaqatala is a pleasant enough village of 25,000 people. Lacking in any sights of note, i immediately contacted a CouchSurfer i had previously met in Baku. Over coffee, she pointed me in the direction of a couple interesting things to see in town. Arguably the greatest attraction in town is the 18th century Russian Fortress. However, seeing as it is in active use by the military, it is completely off limits. Even taking photos of it can land you into serious trouble. So plan B was to check the best place in town to get a feel for the tempo of life in town, the central Old Town Square. A place where locals come to rest under the shade of 750 year old Chinar trees. Drink tea. And to stare at tourists, as there certainly aren't many around. Just off the Town Square lie the ruins of a once mighty Russian church.






Finding access to the church can be a challenge. Look for the big blue doors next to the pink building. Ask for permission as the church lies in a private courtyard. Other than that, there really isn't much to check out.







There's a park up on the hill in the North of town with a few Soviet era amusement park rides and tea houses. Plus there's a pretty new mosque near the bus station. But a visit to Zaqatala should not be one of ticking off lists of "been there, done that".
The next day, leaving Zaqatala in the rear window of my mini-bus, i headed to the next village of Qax. Qax itself doesn't really have anything to offer. Sure, there's a Causus Albanian church of two, a couple nicely manicured parks and central square. But a serious lack of restaurants and hotel options make it a difficult place for me to recommend. However, it's not Qax that is the attraction, it is instead the nearby mountain villages Qax give access to. Namely the tiny stone-built village of Ilisu. Only about 20 minutes into the hills from Qax, Ilisu is a step back in time. With homes older than Canada, it's a great little place to wander around for an hour or so. Just at the far end of town there are sweeping views into Qarachay Valley. However, try not to visit on weekends as Qax locals make the trip uphill for picnics and such, making it a unfortunately busy place.
Yet again, hopping on another bus, it was time for the "highlight" of the trip, Sheki. And there was little question of where to stay. A caravansaray was a roadside inn in years gone by. A place for wary travellers to rest and eat. Caravansarys supported the flow of commerce and information on trade route stretching from Asia to the Middle East to Eastern Europe. And not only does Sheki have a great example of one, but it's a reasonably priced, well located hotel. Near the hotel is a 250 year old fort of the once Khan (king) of the region. Within the old walls, there are a few things to check out. There are 2 museums, that are quite frankly, not worth the time or price of admission. Although one of them is housed in a cool looking old Russian church. It is, instead, the Khan's summer house that is the centrepiece of the old fort. Finished in 1762, the interior is magnificently decorated with extraordinarily colourful murals. And at an admission price of only $1, it's totally worth it. Wandering through the back streets of the "old town" is a quiet experience. While there aren't any actual sights to see, the people are generally friendly and welcoming.

But surprisingly, my favourite part of the trip was to a tiny village 20 minutes outside Sheki, called Kish. Rather similar to Ilisu in terms of old stone houses, Kish had a certain "Je ne sais quoi" that was lacking in Ilisu. It was infinitely more peaceful. It was set on both side of the valley walls as opposed to lumped onto one side. And being larger, there was more opportunity to wander through the back streets catching a glimpse of everyday life. There's no running water in the village, so everyone needs to meet at one of the well-springs to get water. There's the odd cow or chicken wandering the street. And overall, just a real country feel. Kish, though, has something that most other villages of it's kind don't, a tourist attraction. The Church of St. Elishe (title photo) has been wonderfully restored to it's prior beauty, dating back to the 12th Century. And while locals swear it's of Cacaus Albanian origin, it is more likely Armenian (a bad word in Azerbaijan). However, excavations of the site have produced various objects (including skeletal remains) which could date the site as far back as 5,000 years ago. The church is easy to find will well marked signs, in English, pointing the way. There are even homestays available in the village in case a day trip isn't enough. Something i wish i had had time for.

Overall, it's easy to see why the area around Sheki sees the most tourist (local and foreign) in all of Azerbaijan. Easy transport links either by bus, train or shared taxi makes getting to and around the region simple and cheap. There may not be a plethora of attractions, hotels or tourist information booths, but this is, after all, Azerbaijan.

Coppersmithing in Lahic

Azerbaijan isn't exactly a hotbed of tourist attractions. As a matter of fact, it doesn't have any world famous sites (Baku old town in UNESCO though). What it does have is plenty of quaint little mountain villages. Many of which were isolated for centuries forcing them to develop their own language and skills. So with spring springing and a long week-end in hand i headed up to visit one of the more famous villages, Lahic.

The dirt road to Lahic winds up the Girdimanchai river gorge from the vineyards outside Semaka, crossing the "torrent" (more like a trickle) on a flimsy bridge (more like flimsy) and skirting the sheer walls on narrow, roughly hewn ledges. Ice and snow cut Lahic off from the valley for weeks at a time in winter and washouts are common in heavy spring rains. The drive up to Lahic is as stunning as dangerous, animals appear out of nowhere in winding 'roads' that hug the cliff face that plunges down into the valley below. Best of all, you can do it in a centuries old bus, for about $2, from the village on Ismailli.
The village is, at best, around 2,000 people. They speak there own language, although Azeri and Russian can still be heard (with the occasional foreign language). The one thing you're unlikely to hear is the wind and grind of city life. Instead it's the gentle tapping sound that spills from workshops along its roughly cobbled streets that fills the ears. Here in Lahic, centuries of isolation have honed the skills of the copper smiths which line the narrow streets. The soaring peaks that surround this village make farming nearly impossible, so local people turned very long ago to crafts. Copper smithing is only the most famous. Almost everyone who lives here can turn shapeless things into objects of quiet and even mystic beauty. Carpet weaving, wood carving and a variety of other such handy crafts await the weary traveller. Although, with raising copper prices and a booming tourist market, bargains are harder to come by now.

There are a few things about Lahic, and other Azeri mountain villages. Firstly, there are no hotels. Although Lahic has what it calls a "guesthouse", generally the only place to stay in places like this are with local families. The accommodation is very simple. Squat toilets, no running water and maybe 6 hours of electricity are the norm.They charge $15-$20 for a mat on the floor and more food than you could ever eat. But most importantly is the opportunity to really see how the people live. While the level of English is usually VERY low, it's amazing what you can communicate with some simple hand gestures and a little patience. The locals, up here, are friendly and very welcoming. I could never imagine a European or North American opening their homes to a complete stranger. Ad they do it with absolute pleasure. Smile are infectious, and although the temperature is a fair bit cooler than in the city, you'll be filled with a genuine warm fuzzy feeling (too mushy? I'm just trying to fill the page.)

Iran

If you believed everything you hear in the news, Iran would not be on anyone's travel itinerary. For me the country has been a bit of a personal challenge. I had applied 3 times for a tourist visa, being rejected each time. Finally, on a trip to Turkey i managed to get a 5-day transit visa. 5-days? It meant that I'd have to travel in a way i am unaccustomed. But hey, at the end of the day 5 days is better than Zero.

It all started as i entered the country at a little used land border with Iraq. I had hoped to maximize my time in the country, and this crossing made the most sense to me. However, a celebrity status was bestowed upon me and i was "forced" into a log tea session with the superior officers as they apparently never get foreigners through here. I finally crossed 3 hours after i had hoped, and did my best to make it to the city of Esfahan. An odd combination of taxis and mini-buses brought me to the town of Sanandaj where i was able to find an overnight bus to Esfahan. I was already tired, but it appeared as though i wasn't going to get much sleep.
I arrived in Esfahan bright and spanky early in the morning. I met up with a couchsurfer that i had arranged to hang out with. This was my first real taste of Iran. The border area is mostly Kurd, and I had spent the last month or so in Kurdish Turkey and Iraq. So to finally be in a Persian area was what i was looking for. First order of business was to try and extend my 5-day visa. I headed o the ministry of "we want to control all foreigners" to do so. No Luck. It's seemed impossible to extend a transit visa. I expected as much. So i accepted my fate and headed into town for some old-fashioned touristing. The first thing one notices about Esfahan are the bridges. While there are bridges dating back 800 years, the majority were built in the 16th century. They are great meeting places and everyone uses them as geographical references. "Oh, it's near ... bridge." But the biggest attraction in town is Naqsh-e Jahan Square, officially known as Imam Square. The huge park is surrounded by several 400 year-old buildings. The most dominant of which is the Imam Mosque at the southern end of the square. But flanked by the Sheikh Lotf Allah mosque and the Ali Qapu Palace the history is almost dizzying. The square is a great place to just sit and picnic. And even with my crazy 5-day schedule i made darn sure to do just that. Being a national holiday (Nowrus) i certainly wasn't alone in the idea, and in no time i wasn't alone. I was invited by half the people I sat around to join them in their picnics. It was a lovely gesture and a great opportunity to talk with the locals. Near the square there are several traditional tea houses. So on the suggestion of my couchsurfing friend,we went to check one out. They are separated into male and "family" sections. The men seem to have more fun as they can smoke shisha, a traditional smoking water-pipe. There are several other sights to be seen about town. Old mosques, busy markets and a couple of museums. The city is by far the biggest tourist draw in Iran, even for domestic tourism. I could have easily taken days there, but with only 5 days in Iran, i got on a bus that night.
Another night bus brought me to the city of Shiraz. Arrival was REALLY early, so i had to sleep a couple of hours in the bus station until the sun came up. As soon as it did, i arrange for a taxi to take me out of town. Out of town?? The real attraction in the area is the ancient city of Persepolis. When i say "ancient" i mean ANCIENT. Built around 500 BC by Darius the Great, this city essentially gave birth to the Persian empire. Welcome halls, palaces, tombs and the iconic gate of all nations transport visitors to a time long since past. The majority of statues and carvings are in surprisingly good shape. And with a cost of only $0.50 to get in, it's a total bargain. There are a few other sites in the area to check out, but they all pale in comparison to Persepolis itself. Just as i was leaving the area, the skies decided to open up. It wasn't a little drizzle-type rain, but a line-animals-up-2by2 kinda rain. With all hopes of checking out the city of Shiraz "washed away", i was more than happy to accept my taxi drivers invitation to tea at his house. While expected more than just tea, i didn't expect a full-on party with all family members and neighbours invited. So we ate away through the day, as it was still raining, it was totally fine with me. As evening fell, it was time to get another bus. I said goodbye to my new friends, went to the station, and got another night bus.
I arrived in the capital, Tehran, a little later than expected. And with limited time, it wasn't what i was hoping for. The first order of business was to arrange for yet another night bus out of town. So i headed to the western bus station. Luckily the station is next to the symbol of Tehran, the Azadi Monument. Built in 1971 in commemoration of the 2,500th anniversary of the Persian Empire, this "Gateway into Iran" was named the Shahyad Tower (meaning "Remembrance of the Shahs (Kings)") but dubbed Azadi (Freedom) after the Iranian Revolution of 1979. But, frankly, other than the tower, there isn't really much to see in Tehran. Sure there are a few mosques, markets and squares, but at the end of the day, it's just a capital city. A very large city, but a city none-the-less. Unfortunately, i never made it to the Imam Khomeini Square, which is supposed to be really cool. So after wandering the streets for a couple of hours, it was once again time to head off. Admittedly, after 4 days of straight travelling i was tired. But with my visa expiring, i had no choice but to head north, towards the Azerbaijani border. Home!

The border crossing, at Astara, was a piece of cake. Once again, i chose to use a little used crossing, but this time instead of the celebrity status, i was simply ushered through, ahead of the locals. My whistle stop visit of Iran came to an end. Maybe now that i have a visa in my passport, it will be easier to get a real tourist visa so i can go back and do the country justice. إن شاء الله (inshallah - God willing)


TIPS: Bring cash. ATM don't accept international cards and credit cards aren't accepted. USD are best but Euro are also popular.


To meet people, just have a seat somewhere. They are so friendly they'll come speak to you.


Be discrete when speaking to locals. They can get in trouble for spending time with foreigners.


Women must cover their head at all times. It's the law.


Foreign men should NOT speak to local girls. They can get into A LOT of trouble.


VIEWS: Nowhere i have ever visited has there been such a huge difference between national politic and ideals of the people. When people asked my name, i told the Yossef (Arabic for Joseph). A great look of excitement came across their face as the next question was "Are you Jewish?" When i told them "no", they looked as though i had just ran over their puppy. The next question was "are you American?". You can guess how they looked when i told them i wasn't. The forbidden fruit always seems the sweetest it seems.


Without question, the people are the nicest, warmest and most friendly of anywhere I've even been. Hands down!! There are constant invitations to visit someone's home or to go for tea. Many countries claim to be hospitable, but the Iranians deliver.


That being said, one can't help but notice the heavy hand of the law. My couchsurfing friend asked me not to speak English near his home, as he was afraid his neighbours might tell the authorities. The taxi driver i visited insisted i wait in the car until he was able to drive into his garage. And locals i would hang out with in the street would never speak to another local who came up to us. They are afraid. Many of the people i spoke to had hopes of emigrating. Of course, the process is exceptionally difficult and many are losing faith.


As a tourist there is nothing to worry about. That is, if you can get the visa. The country has a lot to offer. Amazing sites, good food and great people. Don't let CNN or BBC dissuade you. Make Iran a top priority to visit!!

Iraq (Kurdistan Region)

No other single country has been mentioned in the news more in the last 20 years than Iraq. The name has become synonymous with terrorism, suicide bombers and war. The mere thought of tourism in such a region should be considered absolute ludicracy. Or should it? I've certainly never been one to take CNN or BBC as my only source of information. And I have a tendency to ignore Foreign Affair office warnings. It couldn't be any worse than Afghanistan. So, with some time off work in Azerbaijan for the Nowrus public holiday plus some private paid holiday, i couldn't ignore the call of Iraq.

Crossing into Iraq from Turkey was rather straight forward. The towns of Cizre or Silopi make for an excellent springboard into the Iraqi border town of Zakho. Only problem is there's no public transport. And truck drivers are unwilling to take you, which is for the best as they sometimes get stuck at the border for days. This means that the only way across is by taxi, and they know it. There seemed to be some taxi cartel running the joint and charged a flat rate of $50. As a single traveller, it hurt a bit. But the driver helps the crossing go smoothly. The Kurdish issued visa is free of charge, and though they ask a couple of questions like "where from?" and "where go?" it was a piece of cake. He dropped me off at a taxi stand at the border where I arranged for another overpriced taxi to the town of Dohuk (hotels, map). Only 70KM (or so) from the border, I really had no idea what to expect. But Dohuk made for an excellent introduction to Iraq. OK, sure there NO attractions or sights. From the get go you feel at ease. The people are friendly, it not super curious. Clearly there aren't a lot of tourists in this part of the world. For the first time, you can see men walking around in traditional clothes, including turbans. There are only a few women around, most of the older ones wearing chador (the long black robe), but the younger generation wouldn't be out of place in any western city. As with most other cities in the geographic area, all the side alleys are somehow interconnected into an elaborate labyrinth called a market. While not terribly exotic (mostly socks and underwear), it makes for a great place to wander around checking out people and perhaps even meeting a few. The level of English is extremely low, but that didn't seem to deter them from trying to communicate. One of the best parts of the town is as night falls, and the restaurant lose the public electricity. Little mom-and-pop shish kebab stands start to appear all along the street. Mini Bar-B-Ques with tables full of meat and vegetables plus an extra table and chair for customers. All for only a couple hundred Dinar (40 cents). So with a belly full and a mind at ease, i headed back to my hotel for some TV before it lost power too.
With Dohuk under my belt, I was ready for something more. With no long distance buses, i headed to the shared taxi stand (costs) to find transport to Arbil (hotels, map), the Kurdish capital. I had asked my hotel how much it should cost, after all forewarned in forearmed. Ready to bargain hardcore, i was shocked that the driver gave me the exact price the local had said it was. No rip off!! To get to Arbil, there is really just the one road. This road, although Kurdish control, passes by the Arab city of Mosul. A name easily recognizable as one of the most dangerous cities on Earth. But with decapitation avoided it wasn't long before we arrived in the capital. Arbil is a bustling city made even busier as scores of Arabs came up from Baghdad for the holiday to relax a little. To my surprise, the city also had more than it's fair share of tourist attractions as well. The most dominate of these attraction is the city's central citadel.

The citadel was built on layers of archaeological ruins which represent consecutive historical settlements, since the building of the first village in that place around the 6th millennium BC. Entry is free of charge, but it's also quite limited. It wasn't clear if it's closed because of the UNESCO restorations or because it was now a military base. And with the army around, i figured "if you can't beat them, kick their asses in volleyball". Regardless of the roaming freedom, you can still get a feel of how things were. The houses were lived in until recently, but now the dilapidated homes are being swallowed by the overgrown greenery. Quite atmospheric and I give it 2 thumbs up. Besides the citadel, there are a few mosques and such scattered around town. There is also the surprisingly well-manicured Minaret Park. With fountains, cafes and as the name suggests a minaret, it's a great place to unwind and people watch. That is, of course, if you can get through security. Across the street is another, though less impressive park. Best seen on a Friday (the weekend here) the park are alive with parents walking their children or perhaps even dancing to some local music. This is NOT what i expected from Iraq. In the mood to shop? Of course half of the downtown core is a make-shift market. Not surprisingly, it is much larger than the one i had seen in Dohuk. Later that night, i met up with a couchsurfer, a local telecommunications expert, i had arranged have dinner with. One thing i came to notice about the Kurds is they are extremely kind and generous. He took me to a VERY exclusive VIP restaurant his friend ran. I rubbed shoulders and drank with some of the big wigs in town. I even got a job offer of two. But, cause everyone was blind drunk, i took the offers with a grain of salt. The following morning a got out of bed, with great difficulty, and headed off to the Sulaymaniyah Garage to find a shared taxi to, oddly enough, Sulaymaniyah.

The road to Sulaymaniyah (hotels, map), once again, had to dip into Arab controlled Iraq, specifically through the city of Kirkuk. But with heads still attached, we coasted into the most southern Kurdish city. It is also the most liberal Kurdish city. There is quite frankly little to do in the city. There's a big market, surprise-surprise. It seemed to be the best place to pick up materials for that bridesmaid dress you might want to punish your in-laws with. But the major draw in town is the 'Amna Suraka' (red house prison). Bullet holes and broken walls show marks of the battles during the 1991 uprising, when Kurds in Iraq took control of this Ba'ath Regime prison in the centre of town. Weathered tanks from the Iraqi military line one wall of the courtyard. The buildings have not been restored, remaining as a museum memorializing the cruelty of Saddam’s regime. Entry to the museum is free, although it can be a little hard to find. It's about 5 blocks west and 2 blocks north of the main pedestrian market street. As i was staying with a couchsurfer, he invited me out for dinner. But instead of a fancy VIP restaurant, we drove up one of the surrounding hills and, like everyone else it seemed, had own own little impromptu bar-b-q. Right on the side of the road. Beats VIP service any day if you ask me.
My final stop in Iraq was the most sobering. The city of Halabja might not be a household name, but it should be. Only about an hour for Sulaymaniyah, near the Iranian border, this town had one of the darkest moments I've ever seen. On March 16th 1988, then president Sadaam Hussein made an example of the local Kurdish population. He released a gas attack that turned out to be the largest-scale chemical weapons attack directed against a civilian-populated area in history.The attack involved multiple chemical agents, including mustard gas and the nerve agents sarin, soman, tabun and VX. Some sources have also pointed to the blood agent hydrogen cyanide. The survivors said people died in a number of ways, suggesting a combination of toxic chemicals: some "just dropped dead" while others "died of laughing"; still others took a few minutes to die, first "burning and blistering" or coughing up green vomit. The photos are truly disturbing and not for the faint of heart. Mass graves on the far side of town now hold the 5,000+ people who died that day. This doesn't even include the tens of thousands more survivors who have suffered long term effects, and even continued effects can be seen in newborns. I could not end this trip on such a low note, so the museum director offered to take me up into the hills where the locals were dressed up in their best clothes dancing, singing and picnicking their Friday afternoon away. Every picnic i passed, i was invited to. So i sat, enjoyed the food and good company, trying to replace the unimaginable pictures of the past with the portrait of happiness i was sitting amongst. But the time came for me to head back to Sulaymaniya and plan for the following day when i would try to use a border crossing into Iran. Oh, by the way, the crossing is technically closed to foreigners.






The following day was filled with a confusing array of mini-buses and shared taxis as i tried to get into Iran through an obscure Banax border crossing. As i arrived, i was immediately given celebrity status, no line waiting... free tea... and tonnes of questions. They don't see many foreigners here. Eventually I was let through into Iran, but that's another story...

TIPS: If you want to meet locals, just sit down somewhere public. They are so friendly and curious, it's only a matter of time before someone talks to you.

Brings flashlights, the power is guaranteed to go out at least 12 hours a day.

The best time to visit is Nowrus, which is on March 21st. Locals dress up in their best clothes and become a living anthropological museum.

Iraqis (at least the Kurds) are shockingly honest about pricing. There isn't much need to bargain.

There is only one ATM in Arbil that works only half the time. Brings cash!

MY VIEWS: Security! It's the first word on the lips of politicians, locals and potential tourists. The fact of the matter is the UK has has more terrorist attacks in the last few years than Kurdistan. And while transport is through cities like Mosul and Kirkuk, which are arguably two of the most dangerous cities in the world, the chances of being involved in an act of random violence are about as great as winning the lottery, while being struck by lightning on a Friday the 13th of a leap year. But a low as the risk is, there is a risk. And serious thought should be given as to whether it's worth it or not.

A recent law change ensures that it is now impossible to visit Arab controlled Iraq with the Kurdish issued visa. Much to my disappointment. I was unable to get my first hand experience of the war in Iraq I was hoping for. But from the Kurdish perspective, i got some interesting insights. They danced. The Kurds danced the day Sadaam Hussein died. But time and time again, i was told by Arabs that they long for the days of Sadaam. While nobody liked him, at least they felt safe enough to go to the market and buy fruit. A generation of children have been denied education because it has been too dangerous to go to school. And women now face greater pressure to adhere to more extremist Islamic dress code. Freedom?

"Why you come here? This country is shit" one local told me. The mood was equally dark when asked about the future of Iraq. It was nearly unanimous that they don't feel they are ready for US troop withdrawl, though they want the occupiers to leave. A renewed civil war, meddling by Iran and disappearance of aid agencies are about all the could talk about. There was no optimism.

But the Kurds, oh the kurds, how they are able to take a bad situation with a smile, i'll never know. But they have. Regardless of the atrocities that have happened to them over the years, they continue to dance. Iraqi Kurdistan is a great place to go. And i would comfortably recommend it to anyone who has a head on their shoulders.

Eastern Turkey

Little explored eastern Turkey holds several surprises for the brave adventurer. Sure there's a lack of beaches, and there aren't any great cities like Istanbul, but the rewards here are unlike those found in the touristy west. I had to transit eastern Turkey on my latest holiday. It was the best way for me to get to Iraq. It was mid-March, and winter still had it's grips on the region with freshly fallen snow covering the hills as i entered from Georgia. But that wasn't going to deter me. So, as opposed to just passing through everything i ended up spending some time there and "discovering" a different side of Turkey. My first stop was the city of Erzurum. It's one of the largest cities in Eastern Turkey and about as conservative as Turkey gets. But of course, modern commercialism can be seen everywhere. Erzurum is also a treasure trove of ancient buildings from mosques to tombs to medressas. Likely the most famous and "impressive" ofthese buildings is Çifte Minareli Medrese (Seminary of the Twin Minarets). Dating back to 1253, it was originally built for a Seljuk princess. The interiors arched hallways and rooms are usually empty, leaving the whole place to yourself. Plus with no entry fee, it's a bargain. A little further down the same road is the Yakutiye Medresesi. It was built in 1310 in the time of Sultan Olcayto, the İlhanlı Ruler. It was used as a theological school of history. But now it has been transformed into the Islamic Works and Ethnography Museum. While there are several other buildings along the same, main street, for something a little different, head uphill. With sweeping views over the valley, Erzurum's Citadel reserves the city's best location. First built in the first period of 5th century by by Roman Emperor Teodosyus the old fortress has seen it's share of battles. But the interior now lies empty and is quite frankly not worth the price of admission. My main reason for coming to town was to visit the Iranian consulate. After being rejected 3 times for an Iranian tourist visa, i thought I'd give one more shot and try to get, at least, a transit visa. To my surprise it was an unbelievably easy process and i got it same day!! So with the stress of visas out of the way, i headed up to Palandoken, Turkey's premier ski resort for a bit of fun in the snow. And at about$20 for lift, rentals and transport i had no complaints in the 35cm of new snow. Yeah, freshies!!!
With new visa in hand and sore legs from skiing, i headed off to the tiny town of Dogubayazit. Located only 16km from the border of Iran, this tiny village might not seem like anything special. Sure it's a pleasant location surrounded by mountains, no one would ever come here especially. Well, that is except for the fact that this town is blessed with two of the top attractions in eastern Turkey (and maybe all of Turkey). By far the easier of the attraction to notice towers high over the sleepy village. At 5,137 m is the stratovolcano of Mt. Ararat (title picture). It is Turkey's highest peak, but more famously is the rumoured place where Noah's Ark came to rest after the Great Flood. The other attraction is maybe not so famous, but in my opinion, one of the best buildings I've seen in a while. On a spectacular mountain top location İshak Paşa Sarayi is NOT to be missed. Only 5 km out of town this palace was built in 1685. Unlike most other buildings of the sort, İshak Paşa is the perfect compromise of a building that has been renovated and left to the harshness of time. With courtyards, dining hall, libraries, central heating and even dungeons you feel as though you've been transported back to a grander time. With intricate stone carving work and mosaics it is an absolute pleasure to wonder around the elegant halls. And don't forget, there aren't many tourist in Eastern Turkey, so you're likely to get this treasure all to yourself!! Watch out for the guard dogs, they've got a wicked mean streak. So after a quick side trip into Naxchivan (Azerbaijan - separate blog entry), i started to make my way south.
The town of Diyarbakir has the claim to fame as having the longest continuous stretch of wall after the Great Wall of China. The dramatic set of high walls of black basalt form a 5.5 km circle around the old city. But perhaps more interestingly, Diyarbakir is the centre of Kurdish culture with the majority of the population claiming Kurdish origins. This group is a bit controversial in Turkey. But with strong political leadership, they are slowing winning rights within the nation. Other than a walk around the walls and perhaps a political conversation with a local, Diyarbakir doesn't have much else to offer. There are a couple of churches and mosques to check out. And the gardens in and around the city walls have some nicely manicured parks to sit and relax in. But in general, not much time is needed in the city.


So, with my transit of eastern Turkey completed, i headed a little further south towards the Iraqi border. That's right, Iraq! While i thoroughly enjoyed my time, all my focus was now on my next destination. But that's another entry...

TIPS: Many places have good "off-season" travel opportunities. I think Eastern Turkey is at it's best in the winter.

Take advantage of the multiple entry visa if planning a larger regional trip.

My View: Eastern Turkey kicks ass. Perhaps it's not the image plastered on all of the tourist pamphlets, but it should be. With remarkably reasonable prices, numerous historical and natural attractions not to mention a genuine hospitable nature, the region has a lot to offer.

Politically, the area is a little tense. The plight of the Kurdish people has been a long difficult one as the national Turkish government has bestowed few right upon them. And the "terrorist" group PKK certainly isn't helping matters. Their methods to ensure a separate Kurdish state are, in my opinion, misguided. I was rather surprised at the general support for the PKK actions among the population.

Tbilisi

The first step in my recent holiday was to take an over night train from Baku to Tbilisi (the capital of Georgia). Admittedly, it was just in transit as the main focus of this trip rested in other places. Not to mention I will have the opportunity to visit Georgia later this year when i leave Azerbaijan. Still I opted to spend at least one night in the city and made arrangements to meet up with a couchsurfer to get a little local flavour.

The train arrived in the late morning. The day was cold and there was a smell of rain in the air. Little did I know. I met up with Bejan, a university student I know through couchsurfing. As i arrived at his apartment, where he would put me up for the night, his mother set out a banquet style breakfast for me. And after exchanging "niceties", I headed into town to arrange onward transport and do a little sightseeing. That's when the skies opened up. I did my best to stay dry, failing miserably of course. With the weather the way it was, there was no way i was going to do Tbilisi any justice. And i spent most of the day ducking in and out of coffee shops and internet cafes. One thing that is immediately noticeable is, contrary to Baku, Tbilisi's old city is actually old. In Baku, there has been a lot of beautification done in and around the old town, giving it a Disney-like feel. Not so in Tbilisi. There are plenty of sight in and around town to keep one occupied, none of which i managed to see. There are a variable cornucopia of churches, and as i was there for Lent, they were quite busy. Of course i was only to see a couple of them as i dodge and darted in and out of the rain. There's also the wonderful Abanotubani sulfur baths (didn't go there). Plus there's the wonderfully set, 8th century Narikala fortress. Dominating the skyline it is a not to missed sight when in Tbilisi (didn't do there either). The rain just wouldn't let up :( With tourism a miserable failure, I was ready to drown my sorrows. I had arranged to meet Bejan and some of his friends and a pub to watch, of all things, rugby. It turned out to be quite a cool night as i ended up singing lead with the house band for most of the night. And i even got some free drinks for the effort. In the end, it wasn't so bad. And i know that I'll have the opportunity to go back later this year, so watch out for the new and improved blog entry in a couple of months!!

Naxchivan

So, you want to get WAY off the beaten track in Azerbaijan? There's no better place to do it than the enclave of Naxchivan. Separated from the rest of Azerbaijan by Armenia, and separated against indifferent Iran, Naxchivan's only lifeblood is a narrow transport corridor to Eastern Turkey. This separation is what makes this little lozenge so rarely visited by outside travellers. And while many might consider it not worth the effort to get here, it is not without it's charms.

Naxchivan city, oddly enough the capital of the province, is likely the place any tourist will visit. It lies on a low plateau overlooking the Araz river, the natural border between Iran and Naxchivan. And on a super clear day, you might even be able to see Mt. Ararat in Eastern Turkey. But the real highlight of the city are the scattering of monuments throughout town. Some dating back to almost 1,000 years ago. The most famous, and impressive, is Momina Xatun Mausoleum (also title picture) It is easily the most recognizable Naxchivani landmark for the average Azerbaijani person. It entombed an leader and his beloved wife, although the graves themselves have been moved to Russia. The outside is adorned with beautiful patterns and engravings many of which in a turquoise glaze. There's a small photo exhibition inside illustrating the Mausoleum in the early 19th century. Surrounding the tower is a stone ram open air "museum".

Other than the mausoleum, there are a couple of other monuments and sights. For something different, there's a mausoleum. Built by the same architect is the mausoleum of Yusif Huseynoglu. He was apparently some guy who did something. It's a little hidden in the back streets, so the reward is just looking for it. There are a few museums and mosque here and there, but really nothing spectacular. Just on the outskirts of town, on the road to Turkey, there is a war memorial. It is really nicely set on a small hill, and has a well-manicured park which is great for watching some of Naxchivan's older citizens. Although you are certain to get more than your fair share of stares.


Overall, Naxchivan due to the fact that Naxchivan requires a fair bit of resourcefulness to visit, I'm not sure that I'd recommend it. You have one of three ways to get to Naxchivan. The most logical is by flying from Baku. Unfortunately, the heavily subsidised flights don't really benefit foreigners as locals pay $35 and foreigners pay $100. Furthermore, getting a flight has it's challenges and it is not uncommon to wait for a week as demand far exceeds supply. The other option is by entering overland via one of the two borders. Naxchivan has borders with Turkey and Iran, both open. I entered and exited via Turkey, and believe me, TAKE A TAXI!!! Buses can be caught at the border for hours, whereas a taxi will drop you off on one side, you walk across and get a different one on the other side. The problem is by entering overland you will need 2 Azerbaijani visas if you want to visit the rest of the country. And at a cost of up to $131, it's expensive. Not to mention the new requirement of a letter of invitation make it even more challenging.

Should you manage to get a flight, Naxchivan would make for an interesting alternative route through the region. Visitors are rare here and kept at a distance. Any exploration near the Armenian border might even be treated with hostility. But at a much slower pace than the rest of Azerbaijan, Naxchivan is a comfortable place to relax while preparing for onward travel.