Iran

If you believed everything you hear in the news, Iran would not be on anyone's travel itinerary. For me the country has been a bit of a personal challenge. I had applied 3 times for a tourist visa, being rejected each time. Finally, on a trip to Turkey i managed to get a 5-day transit visa. 5-days? It meant that I'd have to travel in a way i am unaccustomed. But hey, at the end of the day 5 days is better than Zero.

It all started as i entered the country at a little used land border with Iraq. I had hoped to maximize my time in the country, and this crossing made the most sense to me. However, a celebrity status was bestowed upon me and i was "forced" into a log tea session with the superior officers as they apparently never get foreigners through here. I finally crossed 3 hours after i had hoped, and did my best to make it to the city of Esfahan. An odd combination of taxis and mini-buses brought me to the town of Sanandaj where i was able to find an overnight bus to Esfahan. I was already tired, but it appeared as though i wasn't going to get much sleep.
I arrived in Esfahan bright and spanky early in the morning. I met up with a couchsurfer that i had arranged to hang out with. This was my first real taste of Iran. The border area is mostly Kurd, and I had spent the last month or so in Kurdish Turkey and Iraq. So to finally be in a Persian area was what i was looking for. First order of business was to try and extend my 5-day visa. I headed o the ministry of "we want to control all foreigners" to do so. No Luck. It's seemed impossible to extend a transit visa. I expected as much. So i accepted my fate and headed into town for some old-fashioned touristing. The first thing one notices about Esfahan are the bridges. While there are bridges dating back 800 years, the majority were built in the 16th century. They are great meeting places and everyone uses them as geographical references. "Oh, it's near ... bridge." But the biggest attraction in town is Naqsh-e Jahan Square, officially known as Imam Square. The huge park is surrounded by several 400 year-old buildings. The most dominant of which is the Imam Mosque at the southern end of the square. But flanked by the Sheikh Lotf Allah mosque and the Ali Qapu Palace the history is almost dizzying. The square is a great place to just sit and picnic. And even with my crazy 5-day schedule i made darn sure to do just that. Being a national holiday (Nowrus) i certainly wasn't alone in the idea, and in no time i wasn't alone. I was invited by half the people I sat around to join them in their picnics. It was a lovely gesture and a great opportunity to talk with the locals. Near the square there are several traditional tea houses. So on the suggestion of my couchsurfing friend,we went to check one out. They are separated into male and "family" sections. The men seem to have more fun as they can smoke shisha, a traditional smoking water-pipe. There are several other sights to be seen about town. Old mosques, busy markets and a couple of museums. The city is by far the biggest tourist draw in Iran, even for domestic tourism. I could have easily taken days there, but with only 5 days in Iran, i got on a bus that night.
Another night bus brought me to the city of Shiraz. Arrival was REALLY early, so i had to sleep a couple of hours in the bus station until the sun came up. As soon as it did, i arrange for a taxi to take me out of town. Out of town?? The real attraction in the area is the ancient city of Persepolis. When i say "ancient" i mean ANCIENT. Built around 500 BC by Darius the Great, this city essentially gave birth to the Persian empire. Welcome halls, palaces, tombs and the iconic gate of all nations transport visitors to a time long since past. The majority of statues and carvings are in surprisingly good shape. And with a cost of only $0.50 to get in, it's a total bargain. There are a few other sites in the area to check out, but they all pale in comparison to Persepolis itself. Just as i was leaving the area, the skies decided to open up. It wasn't a little drizzle-type rain, but a line-animals-up-2by2 kinda rain. With all hopes of checking out the city of Shiraz "washed away", i was more than happy to accept my taxi drivers invitation to tea at his house. While expected more than just tea, i didn't expect a full-on party with all family members and neighbours invited. So we ate away through the day, as it was still raining, it was totally fine with me. As evening fell, it was time to get another bus. I said goodbye to my new friends, went to the station, and got another night bus.
I arrived in the capital, Tehran, a little later than expected. And with limited time, it wasn't what i was hoping for. The first order of business was to arrange for yet another night bus out of town. So i headed to the western bus station. Luckily the station is next to the symbol of Tehran, the Azadi Monument. Built in 1971 in commemoration of the 2,500th anniversary of the Persian Empire, this "Gateway into Iran" was named the Shahyad Tower (meaning "Remembrance of the Shahs (Kings)") but dubbed Azadi (Freedom) after the Iranian Revolution of 1979. But, frankly, other than the tower, there isn't really much to see in Tehran. Sure there are a few mosques, markets and squares, but at the end of the day, it's just a capital city. A very large city, but a city none-the-less. Unfortunately, i never made it to the Imam Khomeini Square, which is supposed to be really cool. So after wandering the streets for a couple of hours, it was once again time to head off. Admittedly, after 4 days of straight travelling i was tired. But with my visa expiring, i had no choice but to head north, towards the Azerbaijani border. Home!

The border crossing, at Astara, was a piece of cake. Once again, i chose to use a little used crossing, but this time instead of the celebrity status, i was simply ushered through, ahead of the locals. My whistle stop visit of Iran came to an end. Maybe now that i have a visa in my passport, it will be easier to get a real tourist visa so i can go back and do the country justice. إن شاء الله (inshallah - God willing)


TIPS: Bring cash. ATM don't accept international cards and credit cards aren't accepted. USD are best but Euro are also popular.


To meet people, just have a seat somewhere. They are so friendly they'll come speak to you.


Be discrete when speaking to locals. They can get in trouble for spending time with foreigners.


Women must cover their head at all times. It's the law.


Foreign men should NOT speak to local girls. They can get into A LOT of trouble.


VIEWS: Nowhere i have ever visited has there been such a huge difference between national politic and ideals of the people. When people asked my name, i told the Yossef (Arabic for Joseph). A great look of excitement came across their face as the next question was "Are you Jewish?" When i told them "no", they looked as though i had just ran over their puppy. The next question was "are you American?". You can guess how they looked when i told them i wasn't. The forbidden fruit always seems the sweetest it seems.


Without question, the people are the nicest, warmest and most friendly of anywhere I've even been. Hands down!! There are constant invitations to visit someone's home or to go for tea. Many countries claim to be hospitable, but the Iranians deliver.


That being said, one can't help but notice the heavy hand of the law. My couchsurfing friend asked me not to speak English near his home, as he was afraid his neighbours might tell the authorities. The taxi driver i visited insisted i wait in the car until he was able to drive into his garage. And locals i would hang out with in the street would never speak to another local who came up to us. They are afraid. Many of the people i spoke to had hopes of emigrating. Of course, the process is exceptionally difficult and many are losing faith.


As a tourist there is nothing to worry about. That is, if you can get the visa. The country has a lot to offer. Amazing sites, good food and great people. Don't let CNN or BBC dissuade you. Make Iran a top priority to visit!!