Cruisin' the Caspian

For over 100 years, the iconic Ellis Island in New York has greeted wide-eyed hopefuls seeking the American dream. The Statue of Liberty guiding their way. Almost 1 year ago I arrived in Baku in much the same manner. A transport ferry carrying me, as a stork delivering a new born, from Turkmenistan. Ummm... ok, it's not quite the same thing. But one of the cooler (and cheaper) things to do in Baku can help any tourist capture their own sense of this emotional event.

My 30-hour cross Caspian adventure finished at 3am, nearly 11 months ago. I have to admit, seeing Baku's lights shine, especially from the TV tower, was a great way to be introduced to the city. However, I sort of felt cheated of the experience to really see Baku from the sea. Despite the chaotic ballet of construction cranes that fills the horizon, Baku does have a decent skyline profile. Sure, there's an extended pier which gives a reasonable prospective, but it's just not the same! Luckily, in a rare demonstration of tourism awareness, the port of Baku offers a short 20-minute ferry ride into the Caspian. Shockingly omitted from the Lonely Planet's list of "things to do", this little ferry is a great way to understand the scope of the harbour. Weekends see the boats fill with locals families and young couples, amusingly causing the vessel to list from one side to the other as they tussle for the best views of the city.

The point of departure has changed from most tourism information brochures and guide books. Due to heavy reconstruction of the seaside boulevard, the ferry no longer leaves from the central "short pier". Instead, it goes from the more logical, though less convenient, Port Terminal. In the back of the new building, just outside, is a small, white box marked "Kassa". It is from here that you purchase the 1.50 Manat ticket. Quite a bargain for Baku. Departures aren't scheduled, but seem to leave about every 15 or 20 minutes. So be prepared to wait if you're one of the first people to embark. Personally, I liked riding at the stern (back of the ship) as it allowed for uninterrupted 180 degree views. Highly recommended thing to do when visiting Baku!