...and Yerevan makes 15

The Union of Soviet Socialist Republics (U.S.S.R.) was a dominating landmass for the majority of the 20th century. However, the late '80s and early '90s brought a huge change to world maps. The U.S.S.R. broke up into 15 independent nations. History lesson over! I've been travelling now for quite a while, and I've frankly stopped counting. This is kind of a let down when you want to celebrate milestones, like number 100 or 10 in 10 years or something. But a recent conversation with a friend pointed out, that by entering Armenia and visiting Yerevan, I've now seen all 15 former U.S.S.R. countries and capitals. Yeah me!!

I found a mini-bus from Tblisi's Ortochelo Bus station. Pretty simple. I was even shocked at how easily the border crossing was. The weather was fine and my I-pod had plenty of battery. Life was good, but that's when he bad luck started. I had set up a meeting with couchsurfer to stay the night at his place. But when I tried calling, there was no answer. I tried several more times, but alas our poor hero (that would be me) was left all alone in the now darkening streets of Yerevan ;( Cold and tired, I cursed the CouchSurfing gods for their wrath. Luckily, i was able to meet up with another CSer, who put me up. And the next morning, it was off to see the sights of Yerevan.

Yerevan isn't exactly what you would call a sight-seers dream. There aren't any major landmarks. The city isn't even that old, meaning no "old city" or ancient architecture. However, what it lacks in sights, it makes up for in overall breeziness. The new streets are lined with cafes. Far outnumbering the supposed tea culture in Baku. Most building were from the soviet era, but kind of had a Soviet-chic thing going on. The centre is fairly condensed. starting from the south at Republic Square. This large traffic circle is engulfed by massive structures that the soviets seemed rather keen on. Namely the National Art Gallery. From there, the streets, all line with cafes, seem to all lead to the landmark Opera house. Yerevan-ites are all trendy, loving their coffee in posh cafes in their latest designer (or designer knock-off) clothes. Sitting in parks eating each others faces seems to be a national past-time. Although it's a new, only partially accepted trend. Just behind the Opera house is the massive Cascade. A huge staircase carved into the hillside. The park is well-manicured. The statues are certainly unique. And the views from the top are great. On a clear day, you can get the perfect picture of Yerevan framed by the, almost holy, Mt Ararat. But as part of my crappy luck in Armenia, it was never clear enough for me.

There are a few other semi-interesting buildings, museums and such to check out in the centre. For example the newly built Surp Grigor Lusavorich Cathedral is popular with locals, but it's completely bare inside. I liked the old neighbourhood next to the church, it's WAY more atmospheric. There are distillery tours and an old mosque and an over-rated market, which gets 2 pictures in the current Lonely Planet. Clearly even the researchers struggled to find interesting places in the city. If there on a weekend the Vernissage Market is totally worth checking out. While it's mostly touristy stuff (largely hand made) it's the first part of the market that rocks. Locals sell everything. Half the fun is trying to figure out what the hell "that thingy-ma-bob" is actually used for.
But the sobering "highlight" of the city is the Tsitsernakaberd (Armenian Genocide Memorial & Museum). From 1915-1922, Armenian say that over 1,000,000 Armenian were killed by the hand of the Ottoman Empire (although Turkey strongly denies this claim). This is the hot button topic in Armenia. The mere mention of it is certain to start a heated and clearly hateful response from any local. It remains a political problem too. Being part of the reason the border between the 2 countries is closed (although the Karabagh conflict is the main reason). Dramatic music plays at the eternal flame, delicately ringed be flowers. The museum is mostly in Armenian, but the pictures speak for themselves.

Other than that, there isn't much else to do in Yerevan. But day trips to Etchmiadzin, Lake Sevan and other monasteries should fill up a few days. While I was pleasantly surprised by Yerevan, it's hardly a must see sort of place.