For a tourist wanting to do one of the most popular day-trips out of the Georgian capital, Tbilisi, the transport conversation might go a little like this (all in broken Russian)
Tourist: "Excuse me, where is the bus to Mtskheta?"
Driver: "Where do you want to go?"
Tourist: "I want a bus to Mtskheta"
Driver: "But that's in Oman, I think you have to fly there"
Tourist: "No! Not Muscat, Mtskheta. You know? The place with all the old Churches."
Driver: "I think you're mistaken, Mecca is a Muslim city. Don't think there are any churches there."
Tourist: "Argh! Never mind, I'll walk!"
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But once you're able to find transport, it's a short trip up the highway to the city I will never be
able to pronounce. Despite the impossible name, the place sort of has a mythical importance to Georgian culture. The city was the capital of Georgia for about 800 years from 300BC to 500AD. Christianity in Georgia was established here 1,600 years ago. There are numerous churches, whose origins date back to those times. Possibly the most famous of which is Jvari Church. Poised on the hilltop overlooking Mtskheta, it can be seen for miles around. Although rather bare inside, the church remains a powerful symbol in the region. Newlyweds still come up here for traditional ceremonies to bless the wedding.
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But the city itself has a few churches to check out. Perhaps the most impressive of which is Svetiskoveli Cathedral. The huge church is surrounded by a large stone wall. The interior while not the most ornate, is certainly
pretty enough for most wide-eyed tourists. And the place is also still heavily used. I witness a christening there. And considering the cold fall air, i can understand why the child was none to happy about the whole thing. But the coolest bit of the Cathedral is the rumour that surrounds it. Story goes a local Jewish guy, Elioz, just happened to be in Jerusalem during the crucifixion of Christ. Like any good tourist, he HAD to bring back an awesome souvenir, so he brought the robe Christ was wearing. His sister, grabbed the robe from Elioz as he returned and died of too much faith. Since they couldn't pry the robe from her hands, they buried both robe and sister under the site the Church was later built on.
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Besides those two churches, you could always, oh i don't know, visit another church. The
Samtavo Church is worth checking out. Many of it's frescoes have survived and have been restored. It's also part nunnery. I rather liked watching the nuns go about their daily chores, trying to avoid all the tourists and devotees. There is another, less visited church in town, Antioki. It's rather small and doesn't have the same impact as the others. But other than church hopping, there isn't really so much to do in town. There are a couple of tiny parks. And... well... that's it. But considering how easily accessable it is from Tbilisi, it's totally worth the trip out here. Even if you are a little "churched out" after visiting 1,000 different churches and cathedrals and monasteries in the area.
Getting to Mtskheta is easy. From the lot across from Didube metro station in Tbilisi, mini-buses leave whenever full. And that might be every 10 minutes or so. The price ain't too bad either at only 1 Lari (buy the ticket from the window, not the driver). Once in Mtskheta, getting up to Jvari Church is either a backtracking uphill slog, or a simple 15 Lari (round trip+waiting) taxi ride from the town.
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