In the belly of Istanbul

We often think of the subterranean world which lies under all cities as a mere necessity for everyday life. Either that or an excellent setting for a horror film. Well, lying under the street of central Istanbul lies a example of excellence where simple adequacy would suffice. Supplying Constantinople (later Istanbul) with vital water storage is the Basilica Cistern.
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OK, a glorified water tank doesn't really sound so exciting, but this one is different. Built over 1,400 years ago by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I, this storage system is a cut above. Imagine an area covering nearly 10,000 square metres. Envision 336 9 metre tall columns holding up a wonderfully arched ceiling. Picture 4 metre thick walls all coated with special waterproofing mortar. Then you can start to see the magnitude of this structure. Add to that it has remained in nearly perfect condition since the 6th century, and you've got the makings for a cool tourist attraction. Some repair work was carried out in the 1960's, but the majority of the restoration was in the early 80's. Allowing the cistern to be opened to the public in 1987. Effective mood lighting is used to highlight the pillars. It's a bit of a shame that they don't allow tripods, but you just have to make due with whatever steady surface you may find inside.
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A Kenny G/Zamfir soundtrack echoes through the empty halls (actually there are tonnes of tourists). Damp walkways meander through the maze of columns (actually they're straight). Attractive flood lighting creates a unique atmosphere (actually it just makes for blurry photos). But really, it is quite cool. There are a few things to check out while underground. One of the pillar is nicknamed the "peacock-eyed" pillar. So named for the swirly eye-like from base to top. But way back in the back of the cistern are two very curious heads. Both are of the same person, Medusa. But what makes them curious is the fact that one is upside down and the other lies on it's side. The common theory for the odd statues is that the upside down face will ward off evil spirits. But the sideways one is more up for interpretation. Some say that by putting 2 statue in the same direction will empower Medusa therefore nullifying the evil-warding-offed-ness.
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The Cistern is located just across from the Aya Sofya, in the heart of

SultanAmmet. it is very well signed and impossible to miss. It's open from 9:00 to 17:30 everyday and costs 10 Lira. There are sometimes events, like poetry readings, that will allow you free entry. But getting information on these is difficult. As previously mentioned tripods are not allowed, but the security will happily store it for you(they'll give you a claim tag). As you exit into the light of day (ok into a souvenir shop) it's kind of hard not to notice that you're in a different place. Worry not, young traveller, you're just around the corner from where you began. Just turn right, outside the shop, and you're back at the Aya Sofya. I prefer to see unique things when I travel. While the Blue Mosque is really pretty, it's just another mosque. And sure the Grand Bazaar is... well... grand, but it's just a bazaar. The Basilica Cistern is something that you don't come across very often in your travels. So fully recommend diving into the belly of Istanbul and checking out the Cistern.