Soakin' in Sukhum

With a recent history fraught with turmoil, the breakaway republic of Abkhazia has had a particularly challenging couple of decades. A self proclaimed independent country, recognized by only 3 countries including Russia, very few tourist make it here. But the one time jewel in the crown of the Soviet "riviera", Abkhazia sits ready for tourism to return.

A brief recap of history plays out something like this. In 1921, the Soviets

were busy dividing up the new U.S.S.R. into administrative regions. Abkhazia was given the designation of its own republic. But in 1936, the soviets reversed their decision and integrated the tiny region into the larger Georgian territory. With the change of policy (aimed at regional destabilization) an influx of Georgians moved into the area. Much to the disdain of the Abkhazians. In the early 1990's, with the collapse of the U.S.S.R., Abkhazia declared independence. But the Georgian National Guard stormed into Sukhumi, the capital, to secure the territory as Georgian. This started years of bloody conflict with the Abkhazian eventually forcing out not only the Georgian troops, but the 250,000 Georgians who called Abkhazia home.

But prior to the conflict, and even today, it's easy to see the draw of the

regions seaside capital. Perched on the shores of the Black Sea, where the Caucasus mountains melt into the water, Sukhumi was almost made for tourism. The long esplanade stretches for ages as young and old alike come to meet, drink in a cafe or play cards. Restaurants and hotels abound in this forgotten corner of the world. While the majority of the foreign tourism population has been scared away one of a variety of reasons, the Russians still come here in droves. It's easy for them as the currency of choice is the Russian ruble and everyone and everything is in Russian.

The beach isn't really a "beach". It's more like a collection of smooth river

stones, but it does the job. The centre of town, although simple, has most things up for offer. There are a few shops, internet cafes and more restaurants. Some of the architecture is lovely. While I'm certainly not an expert in the field, it resembles a french colonial-type period. The pace of life is slow. Everyone takes time to stop and greet a friend or neighbour or just some guy they know. In a fairly small place like Sukhumi, you're almost guaranteed to run into someone you know. There are a few things worth checking out, like a botanical gardens. But being there so late in the season, I didn't bother. But I don't want to paint a picture of some happy joy-joy beach resort. There are countless reminders of a more difficult time in the city's

recent history. Building bear the scars of bullet holes too numerous to count. Shells of what were at one time homes, or shops, or whatever line the streets in certain neighbourhoods. Either destroyed by fire or bombing, little effort has been put into restoring a large number of buildings. But locals seem almost complacent to the carnage. Going about their normal lives as if nothing was wrong. I guess you have to.

But nowhere in town symbolizes the political upheaval of the last 2

decades better than the old parliament buildings in the centre of the city. It's grand palatial, if not soviet, design encapsulates a time of excess and grandeur. large archways, immense lobbies and marble-like staircases this place certainly would have been a sight to see in it's heyday. But completely destroyed in the early '90s, it's more like a set from a horror film. Plants and insects are, essentially, the only inhabitants. Locals use some parts as a garbage dump. The smell of rotting refuse and fecal matter blend with the overwhelming aroma of ammonia. The entire building is open to the elements. There are no barriers, doors or guards. Perfect for the

adventurous traveller looking for a few cool pictures or an exotic, infectious disease. The war with the Georgians is a hot-button topic with the locals. There is a genuine hatred for the southern neighbour. By the language used, it's easy to see there is no hope for reconciliation or reintegration. Most locals much prefer the northern neighbour, Russia. Many Abkhazians have Russian passports allowing them access to universities, doctors and other services vastly superior to the local opportunities. Direct rail links to Sochi and beyond make for easy travel to and from the north. Internet providers are all Russian and rumour has it Abkhazia will change it's international calling code from Georgian to Russian in the near future. If Russia hoped to get as much of the former U.S.S.R. back together, they seem to have succeeded in Abkhazia.

Once you have permission to enter Abkhazia from the MFA, getting to Sukhumi couldn't be easier. It is well connected to the north and the south by a constant stream of buses and mini-buses. Rumours of homestays seem overstated. Guidebooks claim that the consul at MFA can help arrange something. Totally untrue! But there are great valued hotels (a little expensive for the average backpacker maybe) at 25 Euro, including breakfast. Even with the bureaucracy and the weakened infrastructure, I rather enjoyed Sukhumi. The people were nice, the scenery is beautiful and who wouldn't want to stare at beautiful Russians on holiday.