Surprised by Selçuk

Far too often, the cities, in developing countries, which happen to be next to some important tourist attraction have the worst reputations. I can't count how many travellers complain about Agra, India. Saying it's just lucky to be next to the Taj Mahal. Or the same problem with Siem Reip, Cambodia which would nothing without Ankor Wat. So, logic would dictate that little Selçuk in Turkey would follow the same path, being next to ancient Ephesus. But Selçuk seems to be the exception the the rule.

Being a simple town of only 25,000, Selçuk is at first a little misleading. The modern city hall and shopping streets give the initial impression of being a new village. But the history here stretches back some 2,000 years. Numerous important Biblical figures more than simply passed through the area, but some stayed here and at least one was even laid to rest here. Throughout the years, Emperors and kings have built monuments. Crusaders built forts. This little town is more than merely a staging point for visits to it's more famous ancient neighbour. It is certainly a place worth seeing itself.

The first thing any traveller entering the city will notice is the Selçuk Fortress. Perched high on on the highest point of Ayasuluk Hill it is visible for miles. It is difficult to find information about the place. It has remained closed for the last few years due to a wall falling down. Reconstructions are taking place, and the signs in the area say that it is due to be reopened sometime in 2012. But regardless of whether you can enter or not, it is still quite picturesque. And luckily for me, my couchsurfing host lived right on it's doorstep. Drinking beers on the rooftop terrace while listening to Azan (Muslim call to prayer) while overlooking the fort. That's one of those, "this is pretty cool" moments.

Of perhaps greater historical, and certainly biblical importance is the nearby St. John's Basilica (title photo). It is said that John the Apostle visited the area, with Mary, sometime in the 1st century A.D. It is believed that it is here that he wrote his Gospel. While the exact site of the tomb was not clear. St. John's supposed grave was marked by a memorial and enclosed by a church of modest proportions in the 4th century. In the 6th century, Emperor Justinian (527-65 AD) believed that a tomb dating from the 300s was John's, so he built a magnificent church on the site dedicated to the saint. It is the remains of that church that can be visited today. There is a certain bit of imagination that is required, as with any ruin. And if there is a cruise ship in the port, the site can be inundated with tourists (literally 1,000s). But considering the religious relevance of the site, not to mention the lovely views of the city, it's worth the 10 Lira to get in. It's reasonably well labelled with an architectural plan of the way the church used to be posted everywhere. Baptism pools, treasuries and a bunch of pillars, this place has it all. Be careful of all the guys walking around the place offering to sell you "old coins". While they might look old, they aren't. It's open 8 to 7 in summer (8 to 5 in the winter). 10 Lira entrance fee. Worth it? Hmmmm... ok.
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But other than the obvious touristy stuff, the town itself is quite pleasant. The centre of the city is largely pedestrianized. And it's literally busting with cafes and restaurants and cheap pensions (hotels) and stuff. As a further example of the city's age, the ancient aqueduct system can be spotted all over town. As an added bonus, many of them are newly claimed real estate for storks, which return each year to lay their eggs. The town also has a bustling Sunday market. It's not of real interest to tourist as it's mostly a socks and underwear-type affair, but the atmosphere is fun. Be careful as the locals come prepared for hardcore shopping and everyone brings a little wheeled trolley to drag behind them. Considering how narrow the alleyways are, I lost count of how many times I was hit in the shines with the bloody things! Getting to Selçuk can be a bit of a challenge. Generally speaking, you'll need to transfer from either Aydin or Izmir. But there are frequent mini-buses costing around 7 Lira. Selçuk is one of those pleasant little surprises that help give strength to travel to the next place.