Friday, December 11, 2009

Is there a good time for Athens?

While rivers like the Nile, the Tigris/Euphrates, the Yellow and the Ganges are often credited for being the birthplace of civilization, it is ancient Athens where Western conscientiousness began. One can not begin to measure the immense impact that Athens had on the development of the sciences, mathematics, politics and of course an early moral code. But modern Athens ain't all it's cracked up to be.

Some 300 or 400 years B.C., Athens was at it's peak of cultural development. Immortal names like Plato, Aristotle and Socrates sat around a rocky outcropping, known as the acropolis, in the centre of town. Atop the outcropping the Parthenon. There is no doubting the importance of this small hill in Greece. The surrounding area covered with massive temples, agoras (markets) and all other amenities to house one of the greatest civilizations in history. But, personally speaking, Athens has never been one of my favourite cities. Outside of the historic centre, which is always full of tourists, the city isn't that interesting. Sure there are more restaurants, bars and clubs than you can shake a stick at, but what do you do with the rest of your time.


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My latest visit to Athens though couldn't have been worse timing. On December 6th, 2008 Athens erupted into massive riots. During the riots, a 15 year-old Athens student was fatally shot by police. This incident, of course, escalated the riots. Hundreds arrested, massive damage and a tarnished reputation was the result of weeks of unrest. I was in Greece on December 6th, 2009. The government, still unpopular with local citizens, was preparing for more riots. But, in my opinion, the over reaction only made matter worse as Athens, Thessaloniki and other cities demonstrated. Most tourist were unaffected, and i actually had to look for the "riots". Luckily nothing like the year before. And in my opinion pure stupidity on both parts, the students and the government.

But that wasn't the only issue with my visit. I arrived into Athens in the middle of a garbage strike. Labour strikes and Greece are no strangers. On the contrary, they're quite common. But it's the garbage strikes that have to be the worst. Mountains of rubbish piled everywhere in the city. Lighter litter blown throughout the streets. Some rain a few days before dissolved the cardboard boxes which oozed into the cobbled crevasses, only to re-congeal once the sun came out. fortunately, it wasn't summer, so the smell wasn't too bad. But that's not all. Transport in Athens is chaotic at the best of times. But the metro system of Athens was heavily upgraded for the 2004 summer Olympics. However, being some 5 years later, things have started to break down. Line #1, the main artery of the city had numerous station closures. Some stations were only half open. Delays were inevitable. If staying the centre and only seeing the centre, most tourist wouldn't notice. But i was CouchSurfing in the north, and had to come into the city. Not to mention trying to get to Piraeus (Athens port city) to try to get a ferry to the islands. But oh no... not done yet. The weather wasn't on my side either, as it rained 3 out of the 4 days I was in the city.
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At the end of the day, Athens should not be missed by history minded tourists. The Acropolis, archaeological museum (although outdated) and the new Acropolis museum are tools to understand the world we live in today. But as for myself, I think this will be my last time to the ancient capital.

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