Searchin' southern Sicily

Southern Sicily is a bit of a summer hotspot. Sun, sea and surf are all up for offer, beckoning tourists from Central Europe. Things apparently get pretty hectic in these parts in the busy season. But a visit in the off season is totally worth it. The beauty of the old towns, like Catania and Syracuse are left solely to the intrepid traveller looking for some peace and quiet. With classical baroque architecture and a slower pace of life, southern Sicily is not without it's charm. So from Palermo, the regional capital, i set off to the south as i had to wait a few days for the ferry to Tunisia.

My first stop was village in the shadows of the massive Mt. Etna. it's always interesting to me why people choose to live so close to a very active volcano. But it makes for some beautiful scenery, so as a tourist, who am I to complain. Right on the waterfront, the town of Catania has very agreeable weather pretty much all year long. The town centre is very small, making it easy to walk everywhere of interest. Although there are a few tourist transport options available. But, being so condensed also means that you don't really need much time there. Starting the central Piazza del Duomo (Church square) nothing is more than 10 minutes away. Immediately outside the square, the vibrant fish market is a fun places to visit. Just follow your nose. having had inhabitants in the area for centuries, there are a few small ruins to check out. 1 amphitheatre (still mostly buried) is free, but the other is not worth the price of admission. In general walking around in town is nice. The building are mostly all period baroque architecture. And while not the most exciting, especially when all in dull, volcanic grey, it's still at least different from home. But, as with most of Southern Italy, the biggest attractions in town are the churches. I've always been a "you've seen one, you've seen them all" sort of guy. and frankly, the churches in Catania are no exception. But seeing as it was Christmas, i took the opportunity to go to midnight mass. After all, even though I've not religious, it was my first time in a Christian country for Christmas in about a decade.

But a little further south, along the coast, is a much more interesting village. Although similar in size, it's seems bigger somehow. With it's UNESCO world heritage listing, the town of Syracuse probably gets the most tourists of any town in Sicily. The tiny alleyways, grand piazzas and ancient churches may not be unique. Heck it's Italy, you can find that sort of stuff everywhere. And, after talking to locals it's clear that in summer it's almost impossible to walk it gets so crowded. but being there in winter made a huge difference. Sure in the main squares there were a few people, but it was super easy to just take a side street and be all alone. I even had one of those "Italian" moments where the only thing i could hear, in one of the back streets, was an old time opera record being played by a elderly man drinking his coffee on the balcony. Sure the piazzas are nice. There is a heavy Greek influence in the city. The Greeks were in the area millenia ago, and left their mark. There is an archaeological park where you can visit amphitheatres and the like. But even walking through the old town, the Greek-ness is obvious. The prime example of this is the main Duomo (cathedral) in town. The cathedral, built over a even older Greek temple, still has many of the old pillars which you can see through the walls. There are plenty of outdoor cafes in the square, and pretty much every square in town, so you don't have to go too far to recharge with a bit of caffeine or pizza or whatever. In general, the "old city" is just relaxing to walk through. And being on an island, there are wonderful views as you sit and watch the waves crash onto the breakwater (title picture). While Siracusa, may not be enough on it's own to plan a trip to Sicily, it is likely it's none beach related attraction.

Transport on Sicily is a pain at the best of times. But i was there at Christmas when everything basically comes to a stand still. But outside the holiday season, buses are definitely the way to go. While the train may seem more romantic, getting from City X in the north to Village Y on the south, could take as long as 18 hours by train. This compared to a couple hours by bus. Many tourists, it seems, rent cars for their time in the area. Although this is likely outside the budget of your typical solo traveller (like myself). The island certainly is pretty. Mt. Etna is lovely to look at. And the villages are charming. Is the area a MUST see while in Italy? I don't think so. But if looking to get a little off the beaten track, it's a very quiet place in the off-season.