Where's all the Mafia at?

Perhaps I'm a product of one too many gangster films. But as I was pulling into the port of Palermo, Sicily, some deep down dark bit of me was half hoping to see swing dance clubs and gunfights with Tommy guns. Clearly this wasn't the case. But Palermo, the regional capital , is worth a day if passing through the area.

But I had more than just a day in the area. Arriving by ferry from Naples, and leaving by ferry to Tunisia, I spent a few too many days in Palermo. While certainly not an unpleasant city, it isn't exactly the most interesting place in Italy. It's setting is nice enough, wedged between the Mediterranean and a few jagged hills. It also has most amenities a traveller might need, a wide range of accommodation, numerous restaurants (though little variety) and reasonable transport connections to onwards destinations. But with few, unique or special attractions, it's hard to keep entertained.

As with every other city in Italy, everything seems to be centred around the Duomo (Cathedral). Palermo's certainly pretty, but hardly extraordinary. Nearby, though, the interesting intersection of Via Vittorrio Emanuele and Via Maqueda has four big "gates" where the four sections of the city meet. And just behind that, a beautiful fountain (without water) stands in a lovely square. The fountain apparently caused quit a stir in the '50's with it's nude statues of Gods. To the other side of the Duomo lies the former Royal Palace. With sporadic opening hours, it's a challenge to visit. However, it is a good example of royal opulence.

There are a few theatre and parks and such to check out, but my favourite part of Palermo was the catacombs. With some "inhabitants" dating back as far as 200+ years ago, this is a place straight out of a horror film. Rotting corpses line the hallways below a cemetery, some strung upright, others lying in open coffins. While catacombs are nothing new, here you seem much more face to skull than others I've visited. There is a very strict no photo policy, and rightly so (my photo here is a photo of a photo). This is a sacred place. These skeleton were people. They deserve some degree of respect.

As I arrived by early morning ferry, i was greeted with a beautiful sunrise. But I didn't really have high expectations for Palermo. For me, it was mostly a transport stop. And that's about all it delivered. Still, if looking to get a little off the beaten track (keeping in mind this is Italy and not sub-Saharan Africa) Sicily and Palermo might just be for you. I met very few tourists when compared to almost any other place in Italy. If asked if it's worth the trip... my mother always said "if you don't have anything nice to say, don't say it at all." So silent i shall remain.