Cruisin' the Caspian

For over 100 years, the iconic Ellis Island in New York has greeted wide-eyed hopefuls seeking the American dream. The Statue of Liberty guiding their way. Almost 1 year ago I arrived in Baku in much the same manner. A transport ferry carrying me, as a stork delivering a new born, from Turkmenistan. Ummm... ok, it's not quite the same thing. But one of the cooler (and cheaper) things to do in Baku can help any tourist capture their own sense of this emotional event.

My 30-hour cross Caspian adventure finished at 3am, nearly 11 months ago. I have to admit, seeing Baku's lights shine, especially from the TV tower, was a great way to be introduced to the city. However, I sort of felt cheated of the experience to really see Baku from the sea. Despite the chaotic ballet of construction cranes that fills the horizon, Baku does have a decent skyline profile. Sure, there's an extended pier which gives a reasonable prospective, but it's just not the same! Luckily, in a rare demonstration of tourism awareness, the port of Baku offers a short 20-minute ferry ride into the Caspian. Shockingly omitted from the Lonely Planet's list of "things to do", this little ferry is a great way to understand the scope of the harbour. Weekends see the boats fill with locals families and young couples, amusingly causing the vessel to list from one side to the other as they tussle for the best views of the city.

The point of departure has changed from most tourism information brochures and guide books. Due to heavy reconstruction of the seaside boulevard, the ferry no longer leaves from the central "short pier". Instead, it goes from the more logical, though less convenient, Port Terminal. In the back of the new building, just outside, is a small, white box marked "Kassa". It is from here that you purchase the 1.50 Manat ticket. Quite a bargain for Baku. Departures aren't scheduled, but seem to leave about every 15 or 20 minutes. So be prepared to wait if you're one of the first people to embark. Personally, I liked riding at the stern (back of the ship) as it allowed for uninterrupted 180 degree views. Highly recommended thing to do when visiting Baku!

Deflowerin' Baku's Monuments

Paris has it's Eiffel Tower. In Moscow, St. Basil's Cathedral draws them in. In Rome, it's the Colosseum. Athens, its Acropolis. And in Baku-the distinguishable architectural landmark is none other than the Maiden Tower. Azerbaijanis are incredibly proud of this monument that is shrouded in mystery and legend even though scholars and historians are unable to speak with absolute authority about its origins.

Measuring nearly 30m tall and around 16m in diameter, Maiden Tower was once the largest and most impressive building in Azerbaijan. Its architectural plan, seemingly so simple, consists of walls which at the base are extraordinarily thick, beginning at five meters in depth and gradually narrowing to four meters at the top. Today, dwarfed by the emergence of skyscrappers, it still manages to retain it's status of Azerbaijan's unofficial symbol. It is on the national currency, gracing the back of the 10 Manat bill and the 5 Qapik coin. Not to mention countless seals and coat of arms. It lies at the heart of Baku's Old city and is listed on UNESCO's world heritage list. My "commute" (aka 12 minute walk) to work takes past the tower everyday, a couple of times a day in fact. All the carpet sellers nearby have even stopped trying to sell me stuff. But it has taken me 10 months to finally go up the damn thing. Some tourist i am.

The views from the top are worth the climb, with a sweeping panorama of the old city, the new skyscrappers on the hills and the Caspian Sea. But the question everyone asks is, "why is it called Maiden Tower?" Well, many legends surround the name. Most of them center around the word-"Maiden." According to one of the most popular legends, it was a king who fell in love with a young maiden (actually his daughter) and wanted to marry her. But the princess tried to delay her father's advances by begging him to build the tower and wait until it was completed. When he completed it, he had still not changed his mind. So she climbed to the top and that's when she leaped into the sea. As the level of the Caspian Sea has experienced cycles of fluctuation-rising and falling-over the centuries, there is a strong possibility that at one time, the waves did lap at the Tower although today the sea is about a block away (observations show it is getting closer and closer again). Another story goes the a King used to lock up his virgins in the tower, and would request their "services" when he would visit his Hammam at the base of the tower. Yet another story goes that Baku has never actually been taken in a war, thus it's a "virgin" tower. There are countless other tales and legends, which is part of the allure i'm sure. Whatever the reason for the name, it's still one of the better things to see while visiting Baku. And at only 2 Manat, it's an absolute bargain when compared to other things in the city.

The posted hours for the tower are 11 am to 6 pm, but these times seem to be rather fluid. I couldn't get in on the day i went until 11:20. And i've seen it open until around 7. it closed on Mondays. There are student discounts, but it's unclear if they are willing to take ISIC cards.

Back to the far East!

I has taken me nearly 4 years to migrate East from Japan to Azerbaijan. However, last weekend I could not resist the call of the wild east. Taunting me like some dual-toned singing, Tibetan yak-milking snow monkey. I just couldn't fight it, so I hopped on a bus going East.

Well, ok, it wasn't that far east. One Sunday, sitting bored in my living room, I decided to meet up with a few friends and do a bit of a day trip. Destination? Pirallahi Island (formerly Artyom Island). Located at the far Eastern tip of the Absheron Peninsula, Pirallahi is the furthest East you can drive in Azerbaijan without ending up in the Caspian. It is said that this was the location of the first Azerbaijani oil exploration nearly 200 years ago. And in the 1930's became the forefront of off shore oil drilling. So the question was, what does 100+ years of oil production do to a place?

The islands' only settlement is the village of the same name. The disproportionately Russian village has little to nothing to offer, a dried up park, a few high-rises, the occasional monument and a bus "station". The people were generally friendly if not super curious to why tourists would be coming here. Some of them even spoke a bit of English. Although I'm not sure if shouting "Playstation" from across the road would qualify as language proficiency. There were a few shops, but i didn't see any official looking "tea-houses". Just a bunch of old men playing nards. But, even so, the village makes for a base to explore the 40 km2 island.

I had heard conflicting reports about Artyom. One was that there were some decent beaches. I don't like beaches. The other was that there was all kinds of destruction and carnage and post-apocalyptic scenery. That i like. So after being dropped off at the bus station, i went into search mode. It's easy finding the coast, after all it a 4 km wide island. At first it was a little disappointing. There was neither tropical paradise nor hell on Earth. But, as you get closer and closer to the northern tip of the island things get worse and worse (or better and better depending on your perspective). During oil production the island was divided into two distinct zones. The south was residential and the north was industrial. This become SUPER obvious. 100+ years of black gold extraction has left it's permanent mark. Although the water didn't seem as polluted as i though i might be, the remnants of equipment, machinery and, i swear, part of the Mir Space Station lie strewn across the beach and into the sea. Do be careful when frolicking through the debris though as i was nearly attacked by a half-dog, half-dinosaur beast. The owners and caretakers of the northern tip, were kind enough to drive me the 2+ km back into town. Although i wasn't sure if they were more concerned for my near death experience or FrankenPuppys emotional state.

All in all, Pirallahi/Artyom island will never really be on the top of any tourism Azerbaijan brochure. But with time to kill in Baku, it could make for an intrerestingly alternative day trip. The 2-hour bus journey (#50) departs has semi-frequent departures from Ulduz metro station in Baku. If you're looking for comfort, the 45-minute, 10+ Manat taxi leaves from the same place. Either will drop you off at the bus station in Artyom, which is at the north end of town. So with your tetnus shot up-to-date and a good pair of rubber gloves, why not get off the beaten track and head to Artyom?

Say Zaqatala 5X fast.

Located so close to the Georgian border you can smell the khachpuri, Zaqatala was the first stop on a recent 3 day trip. Typically set at the confluence of a couple of mountain rivers, Zaqatala is a pleasant enough village of 25,000 people. Except for the fact that there seems to be some sort of COW theme, with many of the walls looking like a stampede of Holsteins. So, after overcoming the fear of getting trampled to death, I was off on a mission to do some excellent touristing. But Zaqatala lacks any sights of note. Which makes it an excellent example of a typical Azerbaijani town

Seeing as tourist attractions were no where to be found, I immediately contacted a couchsurfer I had previously met in Baku. She's an American volunteer here (Peace Corps), and it was interesting to get her perspectives on life of a single, black, foreign female in small town Azerbaijan. We chatted over coffee and homemade Kalua (don't tell her neighbours) for a while. Even in the "scorching" heat (she's from Alaska) she felt it necessary to wear long clothes, so the locals don't take her for a "lady of the evening". She feels she has to make her own alcohol, because, as a woman, she can't buy it for herself. Plus many other joys of rural life. But she had to hurry off, so she pointed me in the direction of a couple of things to check out in town.

Arguably the coolest thing to see in town in the 18th century Russian fortress. Its famed door being the symbol of the small town. Built in the 1830s by the Russians, but it became famous only in the 20th century: it was used after the 1905 failed Revolution in Russia as a prison for the mutinous crew of the battleship Potemkin. However, seeing as it is currently occupied by the Azerbaijani army, it's TOTALLY off limits. Even taking pictures of it could land you in serious trouble. So, not being one to stir up the hornets nest, I headed for plan B. The Dada Gorgud is the best place in town to get your finger on the pulse of the city. It's an old central square where locals come to rest in the shade of 750 year old Cinar trees, drink tea and apparently stare at the tourists (a rare sight in these parts). It is much more lively at night, as it seems EVERYONE in town comes out to parade up and down the small square
Just off the square lie the ruins of a once mighty Georgian/Russian/an "unnamed country" church. It lies, completely abandoned, waiting like a backdrop of some horror film where everyone keeps saying "I'll be right back" and the girl with the big boobs dies first. But getting into the church is a challenge. It's locked away in a private courtyard. So, from the Old Square, look for the big blue doors next to the pink building. Either stand outside looking lost or politely knock on the door (it's usually latched). Someone will eventually let you in. Once inside politely ask to see the church, even if it means a serious of grunts and hand gestures. Then bust down the door in a Lara Croft type maneuver. Either that or just move the door aside. The inside isn't spectacular, but it's cool to check out the old Georgian/other country script (it all Greek to me). And with the right lighting, you might be able to get one of those, "I'm exploring the deepest darkest jungles of Africa" photos. Except without the jungles or the Africans. Upon leaving, be sure to leave everything the way you left it. For some odd reason, the locals don't ask for any money yet. And I've always been a firm believer that free is a fair price ;)

Other than that, there isn't much else to do. There's a park up on the hill in the North of town with a few Soviet era amusement park rides and tea houses. Plus there's a pretty new mosque near the bus station. Getting into town is easy, there are direct bus links to every city in the area for a couple Manat. There is also an overnight train to Baku, even though the train station is a taxi ride out of town. Above all, a visit to Zaqatala should not be one of ticking off lists of "been there, done that".

Qax & Ilisu

Seeing as I was in western Azerbaijan, and with a bit of time on my hands to kill, I opted to check out the village of Qax (said Gakh). Being only an hour or so from either Zaqatala or Sheki, it makes for a pretty good break in the journey.

However, upon arrival in Qax, disappointment set in. Although Qax is a pleasant and tranquil provincial town, it ranks about a -6.2 on the "oh, this is nice" scale. Logistically speaking, it's a pain. Like other "cities" in the area, the train station is about a million miles from the city centre. At least the bus station is right in the middle of everything. But "everything" is an exaggeration. The hotels were overpriced. Restaurants were hard to find. An sights were lacking. There are a couple of well manicured parks in the centre. They can be a good area to people watch, although they are equally likely to watch you, as they don't get many tourists around here. In the centre, there is a Georgian Orthodox Church to check out. And if you go around sunset, you can watch all the swallow dive-bombing for mosquitoes. There are a few other ruins in the outskirts of town, but that's not why you come to Qax. It is instead to use it as a base to explore other villages in the area.

In the villages of Saribash and Dzhalai, local women weave original carpets. Lekit, Qum and Termechi villages all have ruins of one sort or another. But i only had time to visit Ilisu.

From the station a bus (every hour or so) will bring you to the village of Ilisu. It is located amid dense woods at the foot of the Caucasus mountains, under Mt. Ahvay, not far from the border with Dagestan (Russian Federation). The road itself is very scenic both for the landscape and for a 16th century bridge 2km out of the village itself. Ilisu is a small place, built around a single street who still remembers its glory days when it was the capital of an autonomous Khanate coveted by Russia. The old stone houses have stood the test of time and are nice to wander among. However, being set off the "main" street, i found Ilisu surprisingly noisy. Clearly, there is new construction going on here. It is a favourite getaway for locals trying to escape the heat in Qax. There are several restaurants advertising real Ilisu food, although i couldn't tell the difference. the end of town does open up into a sprawling valley (title picture), supporting a trickling river. It is common for locals to bathe here. Further up valley a 4X4 tour could bring you to SariBash (a smaller village) or 'Hamam istisu' a natural "hot spring". But disappointed with the whole trip, i packed it in and headed back to Qax, where i connected to Sheki the next morning.

Kish me, baby!

Located approximately 5km north of Sheki, and with a population of only 6,244, the tiny village of Kish is a shadow of it's once "mighty" glory. Walking the quiet cobble-stoned streets, you'd never guess that Kish's story is one of an ancient history and of "great" regional importance. Today, not much happens here, but that's the appeal.

In the 1st century A.D. St. Elishe, a disciple of Thaddeus of Edessa, arrived to a place called Gis, where he built a church and recited a liturgy. The church became the "spiritual center and the place of enlightenment of people of the East". From these early beginnings, Kish became not only a religious centre, but a political capital. The regional capital was initially here. The kingdom revolved around this place for several hundred years. That is until nature stepped in. Several major flood caused them to move the capital down the hill to Sheki, where it later flourished. Rather similar to other mountain villages in the area, in terms of old stone houses and cobble-stoned streets, Kish had a certain "Je ne sais quoi" that others lack. Peacefully set on either side of a valley, most of the alleyway are inaccessible to traffic. Other than the odd cow or chicken. There is plenty of opportunity to wander through the back streets catching a glimpse of everyday life. There's no running water in the village, so everyone needs to meet at one of the well-springs to get water. Where they gossip about, oh i don't know, the strange looking tourist wandering through the streets. But there is much more than well placed stones here. Kish has something that most other villages of it's kind don't, a real tourist attraction. Ohhhhh... Ahhhhhh...

The church of Saint Elishe (title picture), is sort of what brought people here to begin with. And while traces can be found of the original 1st century site, what we see today is an 800 year old construction. And actually, the Thor Heyerdahl Research Centre analysis of several artifacts dates the site as far back as 3,000BC. I say, just let the experts debate the origins and foundations, i just want to take some pictures. Finding the church is a piece of cake. The church is easy to find with well marked signs, in English, pointing the way. Just have faith following them. When it's time to turn, there will be a sign. Even being there at the height of tourist season, there was no one else there. You pay your 80 qapik/cents (or whatever) and check out the site. There are some artifacts in the Church, labelled in English. And although it's not a great architectural achievement in human history, the surroundings are nice and the peace and quiet invaluable. On the site area a couple of unearthed graves. The skeletons unveiled are clearly different. Measuring some 6m tall, some theorist have concluded that Norsk people originated here. Ummmm... not sure about that one. But the kind caretakers took me to their house for some tea and laboured conversation. Half Russian, half English, smiling and nodding. So with a full bladder i decided to give the ruined Gelersan Gorusan palace a miss and headed back down the hill and towards Sheki.

I would easily ranked Kish as one of my favourite places in Azerbaijan. In fact I'd put it second, behind Xinaliq. Public buses leave, every 10 minutes or so, from the Teza Bazar in Sheki (20 qapik) and return to the same place. It is possible to stay overnight there. As a matter of fact the church curators offered room and board for about 5 manat. The air is clean, the people are friendly and the atmosphere is great, without question, if in the area, Kish is a must do for any traveller.

Checkin' out Sheki

Wedged between Georgia and Russia, nestled into the foothills of the Casausus Mountains and with the only remotely intact tourism infrastructure in Azerbaijan, Sheki is a stop on almost anyone's visit of Azerbaijan. So after visiting Qax and Zaqatala as part of a long weekend, it was time to see what all the hub-bub was about.

There are traces of the large-scale settlements in Shaki that date to more than 2700 years ago. Sheki was one of the biggest cities of the Albanian states in the 1st century. It gained independence immediately after the states of Shirvanshahs and the Orlat dynasty came into power. Over the centuries it shifted hand from one empire to another, even becoming it's own Khanate for a while. Nowadays, Sheki is likely the most visited city in Azerbaijan, by both local and foreign tourists. Its setting, among the oak tree laden hills, means the weather is generally more comfortable here than other parts of the country. On top of which, there are a few notable attractions to see while in town.

When it come to decide where to stay, the choice is obvious. Located near most of the attractions, the Caravansary Hotel is by far the best option. A caravansary was a roadside inn in years gone by. A place for wary travellers to rest and eat. Caravansarys supported the flow of commerce and information on trade route stretching from Asia to the Middle East to Eastern Europe. This large 2-storey example has been superbly rebuilt to reflect it's former glory. Sure it's not 5-Star. Heck it's barely 1-Star. Rooms are simple, but all have western toilet and hot water. Plus mine had a couple of spiders thrown in for ambiance. There's a TV with local channels. I gradually figured out that if you hold the antennae while dangling you left foot at a 30degree angle, reception is almost watchable. But all that being said, the historic atmosphere of the hotel is certainly worth the modest 30 Manat per room. Even if you decide not to stay here, the tea garden is great way to experience the culture and still great some great photos of the hotel. If time is a concern, just walk in, the management doesn't seem to mind.

There are other things to see besides the hotel of course. Just up the hill from the Caravansaray, with a decent view over the city, is the Sheki Khan Saray (The King's Palace). The walled grounds (free entry) hold several building all belonging to the one time Khan of the land, and various other occupying forces. There are couple of museums that i wouldn't recommend even if THEY paid YOU. Although, one of them is housed in an interesting looking Russian church. Skip them and head right for the 250 year old Khan Summer Palace. The gardens surrounding the palace are free. From here you can see close up the work of art that is the Palace. The stunning exterior is masterfully decorated with dark blue, turquoise and ochre tiles in an array of geometric patterns. You'd think that alone would be a reward, but it's TOTALLY worth it to pay the 2 manat (or so) to go in the Palace. A skillful tour guide (no extra charge) shows you around the fabulous interior, explaining the meaning of the magnificent murals, which cover the walls and even the ceilings. Easily the most impressive building in Azerbaijan that i've seen.

From there, Sheki sort of winds down to a whimper. The side streets are fun to wander through. Where you'll find varied old building in various states of repair. And the main square is always full of men banging down dominoes before running home to their wives by dark. It was then off to the bus station, where it's super easy to grap a bus to anywhere. in my case it was back to Baku (5 manat) 'cause someone has to work for a living!