Gettin' my rocks off

Awoken early in the morning by a bizarre combination of roaring hot air balloons and beeping digital cameras. Trying to get a photo, quickly scurrying along tightrope of a hill ridge where a wrong step in either direction could mean certain death. A fabled landscape made famous by Star Wars. You could only be in one place. In the heart of Turkey, the central province of Nevşehır, better known as Cappadocia!

There is no better base to explore the area than the village of Göreme. While hardened (read pessimistic) travellers will scowl at the touristic nature of the place, it still has a magical quality. But with only 3,000 inhabitants and probably 300 hotels, they may have a point. The most surprising to me was the fact that mass tourism hasn't really polluted the hospitable nature of the locals. In my travels I have seen lure of tourist money tarnish the character of the previously pure hearted. While there are a few examples of such behaviour in Cappadocia as well, they are the exception as opposed to the rule.

But the things that draws in visitors from around the globe are the natural wonders that are fairy chimneys. These "chimneys" are composed of soft sedimentary rock and are topped by a piece of harder, less easily-eroded stone that protects the column from the elements. While these formations are not unique to Turkey (also in the U.S.A., Taiwan, Serbia and Armenia), it is Turkey that has exploited them for all that they're worth. But their more than just a bunch of towering rocks. They are homes and churches and shops and whatever. Throughout the village, and even more so in the surrounding country-side, locals over 1,000s of years have hollowed out the pinnacle shaped structures and moved right in. Even to this day, many people still live in the dug out dwellings. Some of the most popular places to stay in the village are converted caves that now house hotel rooms. It's a pretty cool experience, and there's no mobile phone reception in a cave!! Although it can be a challenge finding your hotel again as everything is named the "hotel cave pension" or "pension cave hotel" or a little more imaginative "travellers cave pension hotel". The whole area is even listed in the UNESCO world heritage list. That must mean it's cool.

Just outside of the city, is the Göreme Open Air Museum. It's not real a museum, it's just a valley with a bunch of fairy chimneys. The difference here is that the majority of the cave structure were churches. And even more impressive is the remarkably well preserved state of the frescoes. The museum is an easy 1 km walk for the centre of the village (although the last part is uphill) Entrance is 15 lira and there are normal operating hours. The problem is that ALL tour buses will stop here. In the busy season that equals A LOT of people. The churches are small and with limited lighting. It is critical to time a visit well here in order to not get too frustrated.

And let's not forget the most popular activity in Cappadocia. Every morning an onslaught of hot air balloons take to the sky of Göreme. Carrying up to 15 passengers each, with 15+ balloons in the air (remember i was there off-season), that equal a whole lot of people freezing their asses off. The morning temperature was easily in the single digits in November when the sun came up. Balloon take off pre-sunrise, meaning it's colder. And they're at altitude meaning body parts start to freeze off. But it is one of those "once-in-a-lifetime" experiences. And it's only around 100Euro. There are many agents in the village that can arrange a ride, or it can be done through your hotel.

But that's not all! The region is actually quite large and there are sights strewn all across it. As such, hotel and guides offer full day excursions to see numerous other places of interest. There are a few to chose from, but all are colour coded. I did the green tour (that's right i did a tour). Covering over 200km, with a couple admission fees, with guide and lunch, the whole thing costing only 45 Lira, it's a bargain and not something i could do any cheaper myself. The Kaymakli underground village was quite cool. It a several floor, subterranean city which kind of resembles an ant colony. The a walk through the Soganli Valley, which is quite pretty. And the Keslik monastery is super fun to walk through. It's not a building but a series of interconnected halls, changing roles over the years from monastery to caravansary to whatever. Keep in mind though, the tour promises to see the Pigeon valley. But chances are that the sun will have already set if you're here in the off-season.

I realize that this is a rather long blog entry, but with so much to see and do in Cappadocia, it could have been longer. I didn't even mention that i was there for a religious festival, Korban Bayram. I saw the same thing last year in Azerbaijan. Basically, every family sacrifices a sheep/cow/tourist. I could go on and on. But it's best to come yourself. There are many direct buses to Göreme. But there is a possibility you'll have to connect in Kayseri or Nevşehır. If short on time, there are airport transfer from either town as well. While I'm never really a fan of mass tourism, Cappadocia is an exception to that rule.

Back in Bodrum

After I finished my contract in Turkey, over 5 years ago, I did a little sightseeing. One of the places is visited was the seaside resort town of Bodrum. This time around, while waiting for a visa to be processed, i decided to go back.

Just a quiet little fishing village until about 50 years ago, Bodrum has become Turkey version of the French Riviera. Initially, the town was chosen as an ideal location for secondary homes for Turkey's educated class. But this slow migration was closely followed those with an artistic background. Not hard to believe as the beautifully scenic hills melt into the crystal clear sea. Poets, painters, singers and writer have all thrived in the area. The marina road is wall-to-wall with cafes and restaurants. While specializing in seafood, it's in no way limited to it. Chinese, Japanese, Mexican and whatever are all up for grabs. The tiny alleyways around the "old bazaar" are where you're more likely to find little "Cay Evi"(tea houses) which is where most locals tend to hang out. The streets covered by foliage, blocking out the near guaranteed sunshine. But nowadays, there's a new wave of "settlers", European retired couples. Next to the cafes and restaurants and cay evis is an endless supply of realtors, fighting for the avalanche of foreign invaders. While the majority of actual seaside property is long since purchased, the surrounding hillsides almost assure a sea view over your neighbour. Cheap living, good weather and easy access to Greece for visa runs (if needed), Bodrum is well set-up.

In terms of tourists sights though, there isn't too much too see. Bodrum was never really an important city in terms of politics, religion or trade. The one clear highlight, though, is the wonderful situated Bodrum Castle. The 600 year old fort, was never seriously tested. Bodrum just wasn't of enough interest. But in mid last century, the Turkish government decided to turn the castle, which was being used for storage from nearby sub-marine salvage, into a proper museum. And the Museum of Underwater Archaeology was born. There are numerous well displayed artifacts from pottery to jewelery to full vessel all rescued from Davy Jones Locker. But other than the castle and museum, Bodrum is not a place to come for the sights. Sailing is a popular activity with full day tours taking you out to some beautiful coves and inlets. As i had done them 5 years ago, i didn't bother this time. The diving is also pretty good. With great visibility and a few wrecks to visit (more advanced divers) it may not be world class, but fine all the same. Windsurfing, jet-skiing, para sailing and other such activities abound, ensure that the tourist, with money, is never bored. And that not even mentioning the legendary night-life.

Bodrum is easy access by bus or plane from anywhere in Turkey. There are also ferries to several islands in Greece, including Rhodes, everyday. While I've never really been a fan of seaside or beach resort towns, Bodrum isn't so bad. With tonnes of activities, food, shopping as well as partying, it has what most tourist would be looking for.

Oglin' old stuff

I have a terrible imagination. So when it comes to visiting ancient ruins, it's rather difficult to envision a great civilization from a couple of rocks strewn across a field. But wandering around one of Turkey's most famous sites required no imagination. Located only a couple kilometres from Selçuk, in south-west Turkey, are the wonderful ruins of Ephesus.

While some excavations have shown the area to have been inhabited 6,000 BC, the city that is visited today came into prominence around 1,000 BC. While being a major trading post, Ephesus prospered for centuries and was still inhabited up to 1,100. But with constant attacks by foreign invaders, a few devastating earthquakes and, most importantly with the harbor slowly silted up by a river (despite repeated dredging during the city's history), Ephesus's time was always limited. But it was around long enough and in a vital region for the time, to leave it's unmistakable mark on the history of the world long after the last citizen deserted the city.

With regards to religion alone (particularly Christianity) many of the most famous names from the Bible visited Ephesus. From around 50 AD, Paul lived here, writing Acts 19:23–41 and 1 Corinthians. John was also in the area and Gospel of John might have been written in Ephesus, c 90-100. Ephesus was one of the seven cities addressed in Revelation (2:1–7). And that's not even mentioning The house of the Virgin Mary, about 7 km from Ephesus, which is believed to have been the last home of Mary, mother of Jesus. Which is now a major pilgrimage site. But the city was more than a stop off for biblical celebrities, it was also a major centre of learning. In 125 AD the library of Celsus was built. It is said to have been one of the largest libraries in the ancient world. It's wonderful facade (picture left and title picture) is one of the most commonly seen images of Turkey. Heck, it was even on the money of Turkey for a while!

The site itself is large, but easily manageable. The central "road" is still paved with marble, hemmed in by numerous fountains, old shops, houses and normal city life type stuff. The most popular way to enter the city is from the upper gate (there are 2 entrances). Entering this way, you pass through the political part of the city. While there is one of the two theatres and a few cool statues (the one of Nike being the best preserved) the upper part of the city is generally less spectacular. It is the lower part with the communal toilets (right), library, larger stadium and terraced houses (15 Lira extra) that is the crowd pleaser. And when I say "crowd" i mean CROWD. To the south of Ephesus is the modern port of Kuşadası, is a favourite port of call for tourist cruises like Princess cruise lines. If there's a ship in town, upwards of 5,000 tourist descend on the unexpecting Ephesus. I arrived at 8 am (opening time) and was pretty much all alone (picture left). But within 30 minutes, you couldn't see the road anymore (picture right). The moral of the story? GO EARLY!!!!

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Getting to the site couldn't be easier. From Selçuk, it's only 3 km. Many of the guesthouses in Selçuk provide free rides. Alternatively, countless mini-buses pass the site on the way to Kuşadası. But I think the best way is to walk. There is a beautifully tree-lined walkway all the way from city-to-site. Locals all come out in the morning for a little early morning exercise. Tickets are 20 Lira and the site opens at 8 am with different closing times for summer and winter. Without question, even with mass tourism, Ephesus is one of the highlights of Turkey. It's rare to find a place that transports you back to a distant time. Ephesus does, and does it well!

Surprised by Selçuk

Far too often, the cities, in developing countries, which happen to be next to some important tourist attraction have the worst reputations. I can't count how many travellers complain about Agra, India. Saying it's just lucky to be next to the Taj Mahal. Or the same problem with Siem Reip, Cambodia which would nothing without Ankor Wat. So, logic would dictate that little Selçuk in Turkey would follow the same path, being next to ancient Ephesus. But Selçuk seems to be the exception the the rule.

Being a simple town of only 25,000, Selçuk is at first a little misleading. The modern city hall and shopping streets give the initial impression of being a new village. But the history here stretches back some 2,000 years. Numerous important Biblical figures more than simply passed through the area, but some stayed here and at least one was even laid to rest here. Throughout the years, Emperors and kings have built monuments. Crusaders built forts. This little town is more than merely a staging point for visits to it's more famous ancient neighbour. It is certainly a place worth seeing itself.

The first thing any traveller entering the city will notice is the Selçuk Fortress. Perched high on on the highest point of Ayasuluk Hill it is visible for miles. It is difficult to find information about the place. It has remained closed for the last few years due to a wall falling down. Reconstructions are taking place, and the signs in the area say that it is due to be reopened sometime in 2012. But regardless of whether you can enter or not, it is still quite picturesque. And luckily for me, my couchsurfing host lived right on it's doorstep. Drinking beers on the rooftop terrace while listening to Azan (Muslim call to prayer) while overlooking the fort. That's one of those, "this is pretty cool" moments.

Of perhaps greater historical, and certainly biblical importance is the nearby St. John's Basilica (title photo). It is said that John the Apostle visited the area, with Mary, sometime in the 1st century A.D. It is believed that it is here that he wrote his Gospel. While the exact site of the tomb was not clear. St. John's supposed grave was marked by a memorial and enclosed by a church of modest proportions in the 4th century. In the 6th century, Emperor Justinian (527-65 AD) believed that a tomb dating from the 300s was John's, so he built a magnificent church on the site dedicated to the saint. It is the remains of that church that can be visited today. There is a certain bit of imagination that is required, as with any ruin. And if there is a cruise ship in the port, the site can be inundated with tourists (literally 1,000s). But considering the religious relevance of the site, not to mention the lovely views of the city, it's worth the 10 Lira to get in. It's reasonably well labelled with an architectural plan of the way the church used to be posted everywhere. Baptism pools, treasuries and a bunch of pillars, this place has it all. Be careful of all the guys walking around the place offering to sell you "old coins". While they might look old, they aren't. It's open 8 to 7 in summer (8 to 5 in the winter). 10 Lira entrance fee. Worth it? Hmmmm... ok.
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But other than the obvious touristy stuff, the town itself is quite pleasant. The centre of the city is largely pedestrianized. And it's literally busting with cafes and restaurants and cheap pensions (hotels) and stuff. As a further example of the city's age, the ancient aqueduct system can be spotted all over town. As an added bonus, many of them are newly claimed real estate for storks, which return each year to lay their eggs. The town also has a bustling Sunday market. It's not of real interest to tourist as it's mostly a socks and underwear-type affair, but the atmosphere is fun. Be careful as the locals come prepared for hardcore shopping and everyone brings a little wheeled trolley to drag behind them. Considering how narrow the alleyways are, I lost count of how many times I was hit in the shines with the bloody things! Getting to Selçuk can be a bit of a challenge. Generally speaking, you'll need to transfer from either Aydin or Izmir. But there are frequent mini-buses costing around 7 Lira. Selçuk is one of those pleasant little surprises that help give strength to travel to the next place.

In the belly of Istanbul

We often think of the subterranean world which lies under all cities as a mere necessity for everyday life. Either that or an excellent setting for a horror film. Well, lying under the street of central Istanbul lies a example of excellence where simple adequacy would suffice. Supplying Constantinople (later Istanbul) with vital water storage is the Basilica Cistern.
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OK, a glorified water tank doesn't really sound so exciting, but this one is different. Built over 1,400 years ago by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I, this storage system is a cut above. Imagine an area covering nearly 10,000 square metres. Envision 336 9 metre tall columns holding up a wonderfully arched ceiling. Picture 4 metre thick walls all coated with special waterproofing mortar. Then you can start to see the magnitude of this structure. Add to that it has remained in nearly perfect condition since the 6th century, and you've got the makings for a cool tourist attraction. Some repair work was carried out in the 1960's, but the majority of the restoration was in the early 80's. Allowing the cistern to be opened to the public in 1987. Effective mood lighting is used to highlight the pillars. It's a bit of a shame that they don't allow tripods, but you just have to make due with whatever steady surface you may find inside.
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A Kenny G/Zamfir soundtrack echoes through the empty halls (actually there are tonnes of tourists). Damp walkways meander through the maze of columns (actually they're straight). Attractive flood lighting creates a unique atmosphere (actually it just makes for blurry photos). But really, it is quite cool. There are a few things to check out while underground. One of the pillar is nicknamed the "peacock-eyed" pillar. So named for the swirly eye-like from base to top. But way back in the back of the cistern are two very curious heads. Both are of the same person, Medusa. But what makes them curious is the fact that one is upside down and the other lies on it's side. The common theory for the odd statues is that the upside down face will ward off evil spirits. But the sideways one is more up for interpretation. Some say that by putting 2 statue in the same direction will empower Medusa therefore nullifying the evil-warding-offed-ness.
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The Cistern is located just across from the Aya Sofya, in the heart of

SultanAmmet. it is very well signed and impossible to miss. It's open from 9:00 to 17:30 everyday and costs 10 Lira. There are sometimes events, like poetry readings, that will allow you free entry. But getting information on these is difficult. As previously mentioned tripods are not allowed, but the security will happily store it for you(they'll give you a claim tag). As you exit into the light of day (ok into a souvenir shop) it's kind of hard not to notice that you're in a different place. Worry not, young traveller, you're just around the corner from where you began. Just turn right, outside the shop, and you're back at the Aya Sofya. I prefer to see unique things when I travel. While the Blue Mosque is really pretty, it's just another mosque. And sure the Grand Bazaar is... well... grand, but it's just a bazaar. The Basilica Cistern is something that you don't come across very often in your travels. So fully recommend diving into the belly of Istanbul and checking out the Cistern.

Round & round & round...

After nearly 2 decades on the road, I have become a little jaded. It's somewhat of a challenge for me to get excited about seeing another mosque or cathedral or fort or whatever. At the end of the day, it's just another church, etc. I do my best to find things unique to a country, things you can't find other places. One of these unique experiences comes in the form of a religious ceremony in Turkey. It is performed by the Sufi order of Islam. More specifically the Mevlevi faith, better known as the Whirling Dervishes.

Although the group was founded in Konye (also in Turkey), it is in Istanbul that it's the easiest to see. There are plenty of tourists performances around the city for anywhere from 30 to 45 Lira. Likely the nicest facility, Galata Mevlevihanesi, near Taksim, was closed when i visited. And the alternatives, like the one at Haçıpaşa, is just too touristy for me. So, being a stickler for details, I set off in search of an authentic ceremony. It took me the better part of the afternoon, but I finally found what I was looking for.

The ceremony, traditionally performed on Mondays, is AWESOME!! The tourist show is about 50 minutes as they take out all the Muslimy stuff so people can take their pictures of the spinning dancers and go home. But being a real Mevlevi Mosque. I was in for the 2 hour+ full spectacular. It starts with the Naat and Taksim. The Naat is the beginning of the ceremony where they sing praise for the Prophet Mohammed. Followed by the Taksim, a lone reed flute plays signifying our separation from God. The dervishes enter, clad in black, a symbol of the grave. More chanting and singing. The dervishes walk in a circle, bowing to each other. A part of the ceremony called Devr-i Veled. They kneel. Before breaking free of the black cloaks to reveal white cloak underneath. More singing, chanting and music. Then, one by one, with blessing from the Sheikh (like a priest) they begin to spin... and spin... and spin... only counterclockwise. Their right palms facing upwards to God and the left towards the Earth. The spinning invokes a type of euphoric meditative state. The semazen are said to be mediums. There are 4 "sessions" of spinning, each representing love, peace and unity, to God. After they have finished There is a concluding prayer, recitation from the Holy Qu'ran (the Muslim Bible). And the ceremony is finished with lots of handshakes and kisses. While I have seen this before, it's still one of my favourite experiences in the world.

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Being in an actual semahane (ritual hall), I hadn't planned on taking pictures. But then i saw a local woman on the upper floor (women only) doing it. Even then it had to be all James Bond-ish. Hence the less than perfect framing and focus of my shots. And while I'm sure anyone reading this would love to know where the Semahane is, I can't tell you. Just let this be an encouragement that, regardless of the rumours, there is a free, actual Sema ceremony in Istanbul. It is difficult to find information on it, and the building is difficult to find, but for those determined enough, it's out there waiting. Failing that, the tourist shows are the next best thing. This is something not to be missed on any visit to Turkey. While the Blue Mosque is nice and the Grand Bazaar is, well, grand, in my opinion, the Whirling Dervishes are the single most impressive display to witness anywhere in Turkey!

Abkhazia Bureaucracy

I don't know what it is about these tiny "countries" that aren't really countries. For some reason they feel they need to make visiting their place either difficult or expensive, or both. Abkhazia, the breakaway republic of Georgia, is no different. But with a little patience, getting in is TOTALLY worth it.

There is a lot of misinformation out there. Even international students i

had met in Tbilisi said it was impossible. I'm here to confirm that as of late 2009, it is possible. The first thing to do is to visit the website of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Abkhazia. It's in English, so no problem. The problem comes when you try to look at the visa information page, it's only in Russian. Odd as logically this seems to be the page that foreigners would need in English. But using google translate of something will open up the "secret code" of what you need for the visa and how to apply.

You need to e-mail (midraconsul@mail.ru & mid@abhazia.net) a jpg image of your passport and a copy of the visa application form. They ask for a recent photo, but it's more of a hope as opposed to a requirement. The theory is that the permission to enter Abkhazia should be done in 5 days. But it's never that easy. I had to call (+7840 2265792 +7840 2267069)a few times. Trying to actually get a hold of the consul is a challenge. And once you do, his word is not necessarily his bond. "Supposedly", he sent a copy of my registration to the "border" guards, so I could get in no problem. He gave me his personal mobile number in case there were problem. There were problems when I got to the border as they had no permission and he wasn't answering his phone. After repeated calls, turns out it was the borders fault, not the consuls, yeah... sure... whatever.

I entered and exited to/from Georgia. It is possible to enter from Georgia

and leave to Russia (if you have a Russian visa), but you CAN NOT enter from Russia and leave into Georgia. The border crossing, problems aside, is no problem. There are mini-buses (2 Lari) and taxis (10 Lari) to the border. The Georgians will write your name in a book, and ask some questions. Nothing too serious. You walk the heavily militarized no-mans land, although there are horse-buggies available if you have a lot of stuff. The Abkhazians will write your name in a book and ask some questions, nothing serious. Then mini-buses (50 rubles) takes you to the tiny, run-down village of Gali, where you can connect to the "capital" Sukhumi. It is important to change money before arrival, as there is NO money changer at the border (and i didn't see one in Gali) Once in Sukhumi, you need to visit the MID to pick up your visa ($20). For the moment you can't pay at the ministry, the bank is in the centre.

The visa (just a paper which looks like a visa) is NOT placed in your passport. And you get no stamps for Georgia or Abkhazia. This can not be considered a border run.

Soakin' in Sukhum

With a recent history fraught with turmoil, the breakaway republic of Abkhazia has had a particularly challenging couple of decades. A self proclaimed independent country, recognized by only 3 countries including Russia, very few tourist make it here. But the one time jewel in the crown of the Soviet "riviera", Abkhazia sits ready for tourism to return.

A brief recap of history plays out something like this. In 1921, the Soviets

were busy dividing up the new U.S.S.R. into administrative regions. Abkhazia was given the designation of its own republic. But in 1936, the soviets reversed their decision and integrated the tiny region into the larger Georgian territory. With the change of policy (aimed at regional destabilization) an influx of Georgians moved into the area. Much to the disdain of the Abkhazians. In the early 1990's, with the collapse of the U.S.S.R., Abkhazia declared independence. But the Georgian National Guard stormed into Sukhumi, the capital, to secure the territory as Georgian. This started years of bloody conflict with the Abkhazian eventually forcing out not only the Georgian troops, but the 250,000 Georgians who called Abkhazia home.

But prior to the conflict, and even today, it's easy to see the draw of the

regions seaside capital. Perched on the shores of the Black Sea, where the Caucasus mountains melt into the water, Sukhumi was almost made for tourism. The long esplanade stretches for ages as young and old alike come to meet, drink in a cafe or play cards. Restaurants and hotels abound in this forgotten corner of the world. While the majority of the foreign tourism population has been scared away one of a variety of reasons, the Russians still come here in droves. It's easy for them as the currency of choice is the Russian ruble and everyone and everything is in Russian.

The beach isn't really a "beach". It's more like a collection of smooth river

stones, but it does the job. The centre of town, although simple, has most things up for offer. There are a few shops, internet cafes and more restaurants. Some of the architecture is lovely. While I'm certainly not an expert in the field, it resembles a french colonial-type period. The pace of life is slow. Everyone takes time to stop and greet a friend or neighbour or just some guy they know. In a fairly small place like Sukhumi, you're almost guaranteed to run into someone you know. There are a few things worth checking out, like a botanical gardens. But being there so late in the season, I didn't bother. But I don't want to paint a picture of some happy joy-joy beach resort. There are countless reminders of a more difficult time in the city's

recent history. Building bear the scars of bullet holes too numerous to count. Shells of what were at one time homes, or shops, or whatever line the streets in certain neighbourhoods. Either destroyed by fire or bombing, little effort has been put into restoring a large number of buildings. But locals seem almost complacent to the carnage. Going about their normal lives as if nothing was wrong. I guess you have to.

But nowhere in town symbolizes the political upheaval of the last 2

decades better than the old parliament buildings in the centre of the city. It's grand palatial, if not soviet, design encapsulates a time of excess and grandeur. large archways, immense lobbies and marble-like staircases this place certainly would have been a sight to see in it's heyday. But completely destroyed in the early '90s, it's more like a set from a horror film. Plants and insects are, essentially, the only inhabitants. Locals use some parts as a garbage dump. The smell of rotting refuse and fecal matter blend with the overwhelming aroma of ammonia. The entire building is open to the elements. There are no barriers, doors or guards. Perfect for the

adventurous traveller looking for a few cool pictures or an exotic, infectious disease. The war with the Georgians is a hot-button topic with the locals. There is a genuine hatred for the southern neighbour. By the language used, it's easy to see there is no hope for reconciliation or reintegration. Most locals much prefer the northern neighbour, Russia. Many Abkhazians have Russian passports allowing them access to universities, doctors and other services vastly superior to the local opportunities. Direct rail links to Sochi and beyond make for easy travel to and from the north. Internet providers are all Russian and rumour has it Abkhazia will change it's international calling code from Georgian to Russian in the near future. If Russia hoped to get as much of the former U.S.S.R. back together, they seem to have succeeded in Abkhazia.

Once you have permission to enter Abkhazia from the MFA, getting to Sukhumi couldn't be easier. It is well connected to the north and the south by a constant stream of buses and mini-buses. Rumours of homestays seem overstated. Guidebooks claim that the consul at MFA can help arrange something. Totally untrue! But there are great valued hotels (a little expensive for the average backpacker maybe) at 25 Euro, including breakfast. Even with the bureaucracy and the weakened infrastructure, I rather enjoyed Sukhumi. The people were nice, the scenery is beautiful and who wouldn't want to stare at beautiful Russians on holiday.