Where's all the Mafia at?

Perhaps I'm a product of one too many gangster films. But as I was pulling into the port of Palermo, Sicily, some deep down dark bit of me was half hoping to see swing dance clubs and gunfights with Tommy guns. Clearly this wasn't the case. But Palermo, the regional capital , is worth a day if passing through the area.

But I had more than just a day in the area. Arriving by ferry from Naples, and leaving by ferry to Tunisia, I spent a few too many days in Palermo. While certainly not an unpleasant city, it isn't exactly the most interesting place in Italy. It's setting is nice enough, wedged between the Mediterranean and a few jagged hills. It also has most amenities a traveller might need, a wide range of accommodation, numerous restaurants (though little variety) and reasonable transport connections to onwards destinations. But with few, unique or special attractions, it's hard to keep entertained.

As with every other city in Italy, everything seems to be centred around the Duomo (Cathedral). Palermo's certainly pretty, but hardly extraordinary. Nearby, though, the interesting intersection of Via Vittorrio Emanuele and Via Maqueda has four big "gates" where the four sections of the city meet. And just behind that, a beautiful fountain (without water) stands in a lovely square. The fountain apparently caused quit a stir in the '50's with it's nude statues of Gods. To the other side of the Duomo lies the former Royal Palace. With sporadic opening hours, it's a challenge to visit. However, it is a good example of royal opulence.

There are a few theatre and parks and such to check out, but my favourite part of Palermo was the catacombs. With some "inhabitants" dating back as far as 200+ years ago, this is a place straight out of a horror film. Rotting corpses line the hallways below a cemetery, some strung upright, others lying in open coffins. While catacombs are nothing new, here you seem much more face to skull than others I've visited. There is a very strict no photo policy, and rightly so (my photo here is a photo of a photo). This is a sacred place. These skeleton were people. They deserve some degree of respect.

As I arrived by early morning ferry, i was greeted with a beautiful sunrise. But I didn't really have high expectations for Palermo. For me, it was mostly a transport stop. And that's about all it delivered. Still, if looking to get a little off the beaten track (keeping in mind this is Italy and not sub-Saharan Africa) Sicily and Palermo might just be for you. I met very few tourists when compared to almost any other place in Italy. If asked if it's worth the trip... my mother always said "if you don't have anything nice to say, don't say it at all." So silent i shall remain.

Searchin' southern Sicily

Southern Sicily is a bit of a summer hotspot. Sun, sea and surf are all up for offer, beckoning tourists from Central Europe. Things apparently get pretty hectic in these parts in the busy season. But a visit in the off season is totally worth it. The beauty of the old towns, like Catania and Syracuse are left solely to the intrepid traveller looking for some peace and quiet. With classical baroque architecture and a slower pace of life, southern Sicily is not without it's charm. So from Palermo, the regional capital, i set off to the south as i had to wait a few days for the ferry to Tunisia.

My first stop was village in the shadows of the massive Mt. Etna. it's always interesting to me why people choose to live so close to a very active volcano. But it makes for some beautiful scenery, so as a tourist, who am I to complain. Right on the waterfront, the town of Catania has very agreeable weather pretty much all year long. The town centre is very small, making it easy to walk everywhere of interest. Although there are a few tourist transport options available. But, being so condensed also means that you don't really need much time there. Starting the central Piazza del Duomo (Church square) nothing is more than 10 minutes away. Immediately outside the square, the vibrant fish market is a fun places to visit. Just follow your nose. having had inhabitants in the area for centuries, there are a few small ruins to check out. 1 amphitheatre (still mostly buried) is free, but the other is not worth the price of admission. In general walking around in town is nice. The building are mostly all period baroque architecture. And while not the most exciting, especially when all in dull, volcanic grey, it's still at least different from home. But, as with most of Southern Italy, the biggest attractions in town are the churches. I've always been a "you've seen one, you've seen them all" sort of guy. and frankly, the churches in Catania are no exception. But seeing as it was Christmas, i took the opportunity to go to midnight mass. After all, even though I've not religious, it was my first time in a Christian country for Christmas in about a decade.

But a little further south, along the coast, is a much more interesting village. Although similar in size, it's seems bigger somehow. With it's UNESCO world heritage listing, the town of Syracuse probably gets the most tourists of any town in Sicily. The tiny alleyways, grand piazzas and ancient churches may not be unique. Heck it's Italy, you can find that sort of stuff everywhere. And, after talking to locals it's clear that in summer it's almost impossible to walk it gets so crowded. but being there in winter made a huge difference. Sure in the main squares there were a few people, but it was super easy to just take a side street and be all alone. I even had one of those "Italian" moments where the only thing i could hear, in one of the back streets, was an old time opera record being played by a elderly man drinking his coffee on the balcony. Sure the piazzas are nice. There is a heavy Greek influence in the city. The Greeks were in the area millenia ago, and left their mark. There is an archaeological park where you can visit amphitheatres and the like. But even walking through the old town, the Greek-ness is obvious. The prime example of this is the main Duomo (cathedral) in town. The cathedral, built over a even older Greek temple, still has many of the old pillars which you can see through the walls. There are plenty of outdoor cafes in the square, and pretty much every square in town, so you don't have to go too far to recharge with a bit of caffeine or pizza or whatever. In general, the "old city" is just relaxing to walk through. And being on an island, there are wonderful views as you sit and watch the waves crash onto the breakwater (title picture). While Siracusa, may not be enough on it's own to plan a trip to Sicily, it is likely it's none beach related attraction.

Transport on Sicily is a pain at the best of times. But i was there at Christmas when everything basically comes to a stand still. But outside the holiday season, buses are definitely the way to go. While the train may seem more romantic, getting from City X in the north to Village Y on the south, could take as long as 18 hours by train. This compared to a couple hours by bus. Many tourists, it seems, rent cars for their time in the area. Although this is likely outside the budget of your typical solo traveller (like myself). The island certainly is pretty. Mt. Etna is lovely to look at. And the villages are charming. Is the area a MUST see while in Italy? I don't think so. But if looking to get a little off the beaten track, it's a very quiet place in the off-season.

Pizza crazy in Naples

With the reputation of on of the most dangerous places in Italy, how could I stay away? Crazy drivers, petty crime and organized crime are exactly the kinds of things I look for in a relaxing getaway. This coupled with the fact that the city is the home of pizza, i just couldn't stay away. One thing is for sure, Naples is a city unlike any other in Italy.

Naples has attitude and lots of it. In Rome, a pedestrian seems to have this magical power to stop traffic by merely thinking about crossing the road. In Naples it's every man for themselves. In Florence the buildings are all polished and restored. In Naples it's almost impossible to find a patch of wall without graffiti on it. In Venice there are numerous tourist information booths with plenty of signage. In Naples, the map they give you is only in Italian. I went to a party while in Naples, and there seemed to be a common expression that "Naples is 20 years behind". And while the infrastructure, tourism and transportation may not be as fancy as the rest of Italy. I like to think that Naples is not 20 years behind, just taking a different path to get there.

Walking into tourist information and asking, "so what's interesting to see?" the response was "well, there's Church X and church Y. Oh and church Z is really nice...". While Naples might lack some of the big ticket attractions found in other Italian cities, it's not without it's sights. A good place to start is Palazzo Reale. The square around the old Royal Palace is huge and a great meeting place for locals and tourist alike. Towering over the piazza, is one of 3 castles in Naples. The "egg" castle is scenically located on the water, the "new" castle is very stereo-typically castle like, but it's the Saint Elmo castle on the hilltop that is the highlight. Spectacular views await anyone willing to hike up the stairs to the top (or more easily take the funicular).

In the historic old city is where you'll find the most bang for your buck though. With more churches than you can shake a stick at, I was all holy-ed out by noon. Luckily for me, being there around Christmas, i was in for a special treat. In the old centre, Via San Gregorio Armeno is quite famous around Italy. This tiny side street is lined with artisans who specialize in nativity scenes. There are all kinds of them to be seen, all crafted with the utmost skill. Each year, different characters are added to the scene. This year seemed to be the year of the new US president. His big smile graced every craftsman's shop. But with the fame of the street, comes the craziness. For an alleyway not wider than 10 feet across, it's amazing how many people you can fit in it. And on one of the days i was there, there was a light rain. Meaning the craziness was compounded by umbrellas. But whatever, the baroque architecture is "pretty" to look at, and strolling around is always a good way to spend the afternoon.

But my favourite thing i found, besides the endless supply of pizza shops, was Napoli Sotterranea (Naples Underground). And labyrinth of tunnels under the streets of Naples, has quite a history. Some 2,000 years ago, the Greeks used the area as a quarry, the porous volcanic stone being excellent for earthquake proofing. And for a city in the shadows of Mt Vesuvius, it's important. But later, the hollowed out ground was transformed into an Aqueduct, which remained in use until a mid 1800's Cholera outbreak forced it's closure. But the tunnels were not finished their use yet. During the Second World War, the hundreds of tunnels, cisterns and cavities were used to shelter locals from the bombardment of Allied war planes. While I've seen systems like this before, this one seemed cooler. Some of the passageways are not more than 45 cm wide, meaning if you're afraid of tight spaces or a little... shall we say... "big boned" this might not be the place for you. The coolest part is part of the tour is done by candlelight. It's kind of pricey at nearly 10 Euro, and you have to go guided. Personally i thought the guide sucked, but how exciting can you make "and the water flowed from this room to this room."

So, you feelin' lucky, punk? Does Naples deserve it's reputation for danger and crime? Maybe. Should that keep you from visiting the city when in Italy? Absolutely not! The edginess of the city is the way Italy used to be. With a raging alternative scene, including artists, photographers and tonnes of long-haired hippie types (excluding myself), Naples is one of a kind in Italy. And besides, something like 75% of visitors DON'T get stabbed while there, and i think those are pretty damn good odds.

Frozen by Fire

August 24th, 79AD, Mother Nature chose to demonstrate her tremendous power. Her weapon? The Volcano, Mt. Vesuvius. Her victim? The unsuspecting town of Pompeii. In a 2 day rain of hot ash and pumice, Pompeii was frozen in a moment. Only to be rediscovered in 1748.

In my travels, I've seen more than my share of ruins. Ephesus in Turkey is cool. I quite like Palmyra in Syria. And, well, there's the majority of Egypt. But Pompeii, some 20km from Naples Italy, is in a class all it's own. As opposed to being a few rocks scattered about a field, Pompeii is an amazingly well preserved city. And by "city" I mean 12 km2 of houses, shops, theatres and such. Seismic activity in Italy is nothing new. Actually the architecture of Pompeii, and other cities, show signs of early earthquake proofing. But nothing could prepare the people for the events nearly 2,000 years ago. Some 60 feet of ash was dumped on the city in a matter of days.

Probably the most sobering indicator of the speed of the event, can be illustrated by the numerous plaster castings spread about the site. As archaeologist found cavities in the ground where they dug, the poured plaster into them making molds. What they had found were the gaps left by the townsfolk as they were trying to hide from the disaster. 2,000 years of decay left nothing more than a gap in the ground. Men, women, children and even a tied up dog huddled together in hopes of riding out the eruption. Instead, their ghostly plaster images painfully reconstruct the indiscriminately violent power of the forces of nature. But Pompeii was never really an important city. Sure it was a bustling commercial centre, but the remains of the city are all pretty much the same and unspectacular. It would be like discovering one of those carbon copy suburbs, where all the houses look the identical.

It is absolutely critical that you either get a guide, a handheld audio guide or at the very least a map BEFORE entering the site. There are only a few, well hidden maps not to mention a complete lack of signage. There are a few tiny little directional signs (in Italian only) but nothing to describe what it is you're looking at. The site is easy to get to. From Naples take the Circumvesuviana train line to Pompeii Scavi (not Pompeii). It cost 2.40 Euro and takes 35 minutes. All in all, the site is impressive for it's size, in tactness and notoriety. But it lacks impact of other sights around the world. Still worth a visit if in the area.

The Eternal city

History, culture, art, architecture, landmarks, religion, clubs, restaurants, shopping, romance, chaos... there aren't many places in the world where you can find all of these things. But one city not only has them all, but the superlative of each. An ancient capital with all the amenities of today. The centre of the catholic world, with some of the naughtiest night clubs. A feast for the eyes as well as the stomach. The city is of course the capital of Italy, Rome. It is rare that I go back to city. But recently i visited Rome for the 3rd time. Not much had changed. Not much needs to. It's certainly not perfect, but has something for everyone from the novice tourist to the most hardened traveller.

Having been there before, not exactly a place known for being "off the beaten track", I only planned one full day for Rome. Which is more than enough to skim over the highlights. Most hostels are near the Roma Termini train station. being close enough to the sights, without paying through the nose, it was a good place to base myself. The first place i re-checked out, and the first place many tourist start their visit, is the iconic Colosseum (title picture). Centre of entertainment for the nearly 2,000 years, my last visit to Rome saw me watch a free Elton John concert here. Quite frankly, i don't really see much point paying to go inside, other than to see it. It's funny to see all the tourists who shelled out the 12 (or so) Euro, only to hang out on the balconies looking outwards. None the less, it is the Colosseum. From there, it's only a short walk to one of my favourite places, Trevi Fountain. Off the street, it's unusually quiet. And it's a great for people watching. Shockingly, pizza and snacks and such are too overpriced around the fountain, so sit for a while.

Just around the corner from Trevi, in yet another fairly quiet Piazza, is another of Rome's highlights. Built a few years before Christ, the Pantheon (not to be confused with the Parthenon) is a mammoth of a building. Originally built for the Gods of ancient Rome, it had to be big. actually it remains the largest reinforced concrete dome in the world, complete with skylight. But since the 7th century, the Pantheon has been a Roman Catholic Church, with the name "St. Mary and the Martyrs". The rotunda now holds the remains of several notable Italian. These include the first two kings of Italy, note the KINGS not the Emperors. But most people will recognise the tomb of Raphael. I'm pretty sure it's the painter, and not the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle. Nearby, piazza Narvano is another cool square to check out. It is one of the most active with little rides, vendors and snack kiosks. Throw in a couple cute fountains and a few performers and you're only a tiger away from a full blown circus!
Crossing the river Tiber is anything from a chore with the beautiful Angels Bridge. And across the river is where you'll find another country. Although only given "permanent observer" status by the U.N., the Holy See (better known as the Vatican City) is a state within a state. Home to the Pope, and indeed the political heart of Christianity, this place is always crowded. But for the religiously devout, it is a sacred place. Free of charge, the only "hassle" is a security half-assed check. I'm pretty sure everyone in the line I was in made the metal detector buzz, but no one was stopped. The nearby Vatican Museum is worth checking out. While the general collection is ordinary, it is home to the world famous Sistine Chapel.
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This is just the tip of the iceberg of things to see and do in Rome, but they are some of my favourites. If short on time, the Trambus Open, and many others like it, can zip you around the sights for 20 Euro (hop-on, hop-off). But it really is by foot that Rome should be explored. Every piazza, every fountain, every statue, every everything are worth a stop, look and photo.

Big churches and falling spires

There are two cities in Northern Italy that have achieved world fame. But the reasons for their popularity couldn't be for 2 more different reasons. One is the centre of the renaissance, the re-birth of human creativity after the dark ages. Known for it's perfection of art and artisans. The other has one of the most notable architectural screw-ups in history. The cities are separated by a mere 70 km. They are Florence and Pisa.
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Home to Sandro Botticelli, Giorgio Vasari and all of the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (Leonardo, Michelangelo, Donatelo and Rafael) at some point in their lives, Florence is art. And no visit to Florence would be complete without a visit to the Uffizi Gallery. Normally I skip over art galleries. I've been to some of the best in the world, and smaller ones just don't compare. But the Uffizi IS one of the best in the world. Where in some no-name gallery you might look and say "oh, that's nice...", at the Uffizi you say "Oh wow, i know that one, it's awesome!!". However, getting in is half the experience. In the busy summer season, people literally book a place weeks in advance. Even in the off season, you can expect to spend half the day queueing without reservations. But it's worth it. If that's not enough to satisfy your art cravings, Michelangelo's David can be found at the Accadamia Gallery. Although it's also a pain to get into. But this being my second time to Florence, I didn't feel the need to revisit these places. Instead, i was content to visit Cupola del Brunelleschi, in the Piazza Del Duomo. Florence's central Cathedral is quite lovely, but it's the climb to the top that is breathtaking. It's 8 Euro and something like 843 steps to one of the most spectacular city views in all of Italy (title picture). It shouldn't be attempted by people with fear of closed spaces, fear of heights or fear of exercise. The added bonus is the close up views of the paintings on the Cathedral dome. This little adventure is certainly one of the highlights of any trip to Italy. So i had no problems squeezing it in on the way from Vicenza (where i was visiting a friend) to my real destination.

The unassuming town of Pisa is nothing more than a university town. Many street are semi-pedestrian, and there are more bookshops per capita than I've seen almost anywhere. But it has one MAJOR attraction. A tower standing 55.86 m tall and 4.09 m wide (at the base). It's a nice tower, but nothing outstanding. Except for the fact that it's leaning almost 4 degrees to it's side. Blamed on a poorly laid foundation and loose substrate, the tower started leaning almost immediately after construction began in 1173. The square is lovely... and the tower is nice... but in my opinion it is the single most overrated landmark in the world (with the Eiffel Tower a close second). It costs 15 Euro to climb the thing and in summer bookings are essential (17 Euro on-line). People from all around the world flood the square taking one of two pictures. Using perspective, the bad-asses take a picture that looks like they're pushing the tower over, and bleeding hearts take a picture holding it up. Countless vendors line the square trying to sell the exact same sculpture of the tower as the next vendor. But still, in terms of world landmarks, they don't come more famous than the Leaning Tower of Pisa. So why not visit?

Pisa is easily do-able as a day trip from Florence. Tickets cost as little as 5.70 Euro and there are trains about every half an hour. the journey takes about 70 minutes. There is often a reason for mass tourism. Both Florence and Pisa see more tourists than the last 2 countries I've lived in (Azerbaijan and Kyrgyzstan). But the home of art and the home of a tumbling tower will most certainly be on the agenda of any trip to Italy, and i suppose deservedly so.

118 islands + 387 bridges = Venice

Amsterdam is often called the "Venice of the North". Marco Polo, on his world travels, called Suzhou, China "the Venice of the East". I've been to both cities, and many like them. While they're pleasantly nice and wonderful and such, they simply pale in comparison to the one, the only, original, Venice, Italy!
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Some would say the with overall visitor numbers at an estimated 20,000,000 (2007 figures), that Venice is a little touristy. The may be right. Some might say that the city is expensive considering it cost 1.50 just to use a toilet. They might have a point. But COME ON!! It's Venice. Spawning such notable names as Marco Polo, Antonio Vivaldi, Giovanni Giacomo Casanova just to name a few, the impact on modern art and culture is enormous. That's not even mentioning the historical role the Venetians played in the region. Wonderful architecture, World Heritage listings and all those wonderful (if a little smelly) canals, Venice is a sight to be seen.

Eventually, every visitor will end up Piazza San Marco (St. Mark's Square). A popular meeting place for tourists, photographers and countless pigeons, it is the heart of the city. And the jewel in the crown is St. Mark's Basilica. Originally started 1,200 years ago, it has gone through numerous reincarnations to become the beauty it is today. Frankly, with so many churches to see in Venice (and Italy in general) this one is a highlight. And it is one of only a few churches you DON'T have to pay for. Although free to enter (no backpacks allowed) you could always spend a few Euros to climb for great views for the top. And if the top of the church isn't high enough, St. Mark's Clock tower should satisfy you. With Doge's Palace nearby to satisfy your museum craving, many don't even wander far from the Square. There are certainly enough cafes and such to sustain caffeine levels. And they're great for people watching. Although it was snowing and blowing a gale when i visited, so nobody was crazy enough to brave the outdoor seats. Heck, even the poor birds were cuddling next to each other. It was damn cold!!! But hopping in from one cafe to another to reheat enough to stand to cold seemed to be a great plan. Besides, i had been to Venice 4 times before, so it's not like i was on any kind of sightseeing plan.
But the real charm of Venice is just getting lost among the islands. Put away the damn maps!!! It is nearly impossible to get lost, if you aren't looking for anything. Eventually you'll find a sign pointing to one of 3 destinations of interest. One being St. Mark's Square, another being Piazza Le Roma (where all transport links are) and the third being the Rialto Bridge (both larger photos above). With either of those 3 places easy to find, there should be no problem wandering through the canal. Most will dream of a trip on the water. Be prepared to pay. A gondola ride could cost as much as 100 EURO. And a "waterbus" costs 6.50 Euro. There are a few public gondolas, in places where there no bridges across the Grand Canal, and they're cheap.
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In my opinion, the best way to arrive in Venice is by international ferry. The city is well connected to Greece, Croatia and others in the area. But failing that, the train station is well located with connection to pretty much anywhere in Italy. And the airport has easy (although very expensive) service into the city. With all the "off-the-beaten track" attitude aside, Venice is a one of a kind destination. Either on romantic holiday or just backpacking around, it has something for everyone.

The best Greek island?

Different strokes for different folks. With so many Greek islands to choose from, it's pretty much impossible to say which is the best. Mykonos has great partying. Santorini has the best views. Rhodes or Crete have wonderful history. And Lesbos has... well... But it might just be the island of Corfu that wins the prize. It is one of the most accessible, with a great old town and plenty of beaches.

Being part of Greece, the islands history is of course long and torrid. Great battles, conquering, independence, more battles... it goes on and on. But it's the history of the last couple hundred years that has the most visible impact on the island. From about 1400 to 1800, the Venetians built numerous houses and fortresses. Most certainly in the islands main town of Corfu City (Kerkyra in Greek). Walking though the old town of the "new Fort" is a wonderful experience. The meandering cobble-stone or marbled alleyways criss-cross through well restored architecture. With countless piazzas, churches, cafes and bars, it's easy to see why Corfu is one of the most visited islands in Greece.

Unless you fly, you'll arrive by ferry. In my opinion the best way to arrive anywhere. As you pull closer to Corfu, the first thing you'll see is likely the Old fort. While it might be more impressive than the New Fort, it lacks the life that surrounds it younger brother. With plenty of hotel options, Corfu city is probably the best place to base any visit to the island, although I CouchSurfed there. To top it all off, I just happened to arrive on December 11th, the day before the name day of Saint Spyridon, the patron saint of Corfu. On the 12th, people queue at the saints church as Orthodox priest reveal the corpse of the saint for the faithful to kiss. I've been a lot of places and done a lot of things, but this was the first attempt at necrophilia for me. Not sure it's too habit forming.

But the main city is not the only attraction of the island. Being quite a religious island, there are a few of Orthodox monasteries to visit. Each with wonderful settings. None are particularly big or impressive, if compared to others, but nice all the same. Be advised though, if visiting in summer, they can become very busy thus losing the tranquillity you might expect. But probably the biggest draw to the island is the beaches. With sandy beaches, hidden coves and azure water, they are the kind of beaches which might grace the cover of "Beaches Galore" magazine (not a real magazine, not yet at least). While I didn't do much beach hopping in December, they were still nice to look at.

There are numerous ferries from Corfu to the mainland port of Igoumenitsa. Not to mention international ferries to places like Venice. Even if you're not much of an island person, I'm usually not a fan, Corfu has a little bit of something for everyone. And if visiting in the shoulder season, you get all the perks of it's beauty, without the stifling crowds.

Santor-ific

There are a few iconic travel images that grace the pages of nearly every holiday brochure. Overlooking the city of Machu Pichu in Peru, strolling along the Great Wall of China in, oddly enough, China, or a woman in a colourful sari walking toward the Taj Mahal in India. But, without a doubt, one image everyone has seen at some point or another is the blue&white buildings of Santorini, Greece.
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The southern most island of the Cycladic group in the Aegean Sea, Santorini's crescent shape of is a consequence of the activity of the volcano in prehistoric times. The island itself owes its very existence to the volcano. This spectacular geological feature is the setting for the most stunning of the Greek Islands. As you enter the cauldron on the ferry, the white washed house and buildings, clinging precariously to the edge, give the appearance of a snow-capped mountains. Spectacular!! The ride up the hill from the port is fun too, as the road winds it's way up and up and up...

The biggest town on the island is Fira. It's where most of the action is. But at only 2,000 resident, it's hardly a metropolis. in the summer, the place is absolutely heaving with tourists. The countless restaurants, hotels, cafes and pubs shoehorn the people in to make the most of the busy season. But i was there in December. The place was dead. Most of the places i just mentioned were closed. But, it means that there are some serious deals to be had, as i grabbed a room for 20 Euro that would normally be 70 or 80. And with a couple of restaurants to choose from, I was more than happy with the off season lull.
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But while Fira may be where it's all happening, it's not the most picturesque of the villages on the island. Sure it's on the cauldron side, but there are better places. For example the village of Pyrgos. Pyrgos is a traditional village built on the slopes of Mt. Profitis Ilias, in the center of Santorini Island. It is one of the most impressive Santorini villages, with Byzantine churches, Medieval Manors and Venetian Castles. White buildings with blue highlights abound. Tiny walkways are only wide enough for a donkey train and a very nervous tourist. For a little fun in the sun, the other side of the island is full of black pebble beaches. Not much in the winter, in summer they apparently go off, with the boulevard lined with clubs and bars (the black pebbles get crazy hot though). But the real highlight of the island in the village of Oia (title picture). The charming settlement, located on the tip of northern Santorini, is renowned for its amazing Caldera and sunset view, and its traditional "cave" houses that are built into the side of the reddish cliff. Much nicer than Fira and better located than Pyrgos, this is the place to be. Getting from village to village is pretty easy with a public buses frequenting each. Although if travelling as a couple, it might be cheaper (and more fun) to rent a car or 4-wheeler (note you can only rent scooters with a valid motorcycle licence). They're only 20 Euro for the day. There were also some kick-ass dune buggies in Oia, but i didn't ask the price.
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Santorini is serviced by at least 2 to 4 ferries a days, either to other islands or the Athens port city of Piraeus. Usual price is about 30 Euro each way, and it takes about 5-10 hours depending on the route. The trip is half the fun as you pick up/drop off people and many of the idyllic little islands. I've said it once, and I'll say it again, I've never been a fan of mass tourism. But with the right timing a visit to Santorini can be a wonderfully peaceful experience. And come on, it's DAMN pretty!!!