Saturday, January 2, 2010

It ain't the Greek Isles, it's Sidi Bou Said!

Brilliant aqua-marine doors and windows are framed beautifully by white washed walls. A labyrinth of narrow, cobbled stoned alleyways are almost designed for getting peacefully lost in. Buildings cling to the cliff side, each with magnificent views over the Mediterranean Sea. Such a idyllic holiday scene would seemingly describe one of many Greek Islands, primarily Santorini. But, oh no!! been there, done that. This description can also be applied to a tiny coastal village in, of all places, Tunisia. Surprisingly, it's not even half an hour outside the capital, Tunis. It is the little picturesque village of Sidi Bou Said.

Centred around the site of an old Ribat (fort) the town of Sidi Bou Said is a postcard Mediterranean holiday destination. With more "maturity" than the Greek Isles, it offers travellers a little something extra. Many of the homes date back several hundred years. Their courtyard should be a no-go zone for anyone on acid as the multitude of brilliantly coloured tiles might cause their head to explode. But seeing as each of the open houses cost 3 TD, they are often skipped. As i was staying in a traditional home in Tunis anyway, i skipped them too. All the action is around the 16th century Mosque, with more Moorish architecture. Without question, the area around the mosque is a bit of a tourist trap. But sellers remained laid-back in their hawking techniques. There are several cafes to sit and enjoy a cuppa' Joe, tea or whatever.

But it's once past the "hustle and bustle" of the central square that the beauty of the place takes hold. The quiet little back alleys are an absolute pleasure to wander through. Granted, i was visiting in the off-season. So there were hardly any other people to be seen, just the occasional scaredy cat or unconcerned donkey. Hidden staircases lead you to sheer cliffs. The magnificent views over the vibrantly colour sea almost causing you to inadvertently walk over the edge. While the white-and-blue paint scheme might seem a little repetitive, I found each house to be postcard worthy. But i have to say that i found it rather amusing when you come across some local bad-ass who decided to paint his door yellow!! Is this place the be all to end of of remote off the beaten track tourism? Ummmm... no! Does it have it's tacky elements? Yes. but it was one of my favourite day trips out of Tunis.

17 km outside of Tunis, Sidi Bou Said is most easily reached by the TGM train. The station is located just west of the clock tower, along the main Ave Habib Bourguiba in Tunis. It takes about 35 minutes and cost 0.65 TD. Once at the village it's a 15 minute (somewhat steepish) walk up to the right of the station exit. Just follow the other people. If short on time in Tunisia, it can be tied into a visit to the Carthage ruins, although it would be a crazy long day!

4 comments:

Anonymous said...

hello~nice to meet u..............................

Anonymous said...

Hi! i ll so soon visit sidi bou said and i just thinking how to go there! And i saw your blog..and you are sure thats one single ticket from tunis capital to sidi b. said 65 TD? it is pretty expensive cause for this money i can take rent a car for one day and for 4 person?

This is Joe! said...

It's 650 millems. That's 0.65 Tunisian Dinar. I'll add the "0" in the article to make things more clear.

Anonymous said...

Tnx Joe! Afer I made comment in your site, I find TGM site and there are all prices!! Where are you now? Still in Tunisia? If you can write more about beaty places, restaurants..not simple, something special..i wanna suprise my boy and take him to magic places..