Monastir - too much change?

Tacky development can have both positive and negative consequences on an unsuspecting town. The vast improvements to infrastructure clearly have a major influence on the daily lives of locals. Where as destruction of history, culture and tradition tarnish the reason for visiting the place in the first time. The Tunisian town of Monastir is a prime example of this dichotomy.

Founded roughly 2,000 years ago, Monastir, a coastal town 30 minutes east of Sousse, played a strategic, if not geographical, role in the region. Even Julius Caesar used the place to base some of his conquests. Some 800 years later, Arab built a wonderful Ribat (fort) in the town. And around 100 years ago the first president of Tunisia, Habib Bourguiba, was born here. With this list of historical figures and eras, there's no wonder the town has a few eye-catching attractions. First on the list must certainly be the remarkably well preserved Ribat (fortress/Muslim monastery). Although Ribats are common throughout Tunisia, the one in Monastir is a shining example. Clearly the facility has been added onto and amended through it's 1,200 year history, but that doesn't distract from it's "coolness". And the view over the city and the amazing aqua-marine sea from the nador (tower) alone are well worth the 5 TD admission price. But it ain't all about ancient history. Born in 1903, Habib Bourguiba became the first president of the Tunisian Republic in 1957. He remained president until 1987. He was then sent out out pasture in his home town of Monastir until he died in early 2000. It is here, in his home town, that his mausoleum was built. It's glaring golden dome might seem a little overdone, but the interior is much more understated. In the small rooms behind the main sarcophagus room are many of his family members. Entrance is free, but keep in mind this is a mausoleum, dress properly. There are also a scattering of old mosques to check out, although usually non-Muslims can only visit the courtyard.

With all this cultural heritage, it would seem that a visit to Monastir is a must do for any intrepid traveller. Well this is where the dichotomy comes in. It order to attract tourism, Monastir has had a massive facelift. The main victim of the modernization has been the medina. The one time heart of the city no longer resembles anything historic. I has fully been Disney-fied, but poorly at that. While there are a few mildly interesting side streets, it's still one of the worst medinas in Tunisia. Also the old port has been left to rot as the shiny new marina take over. The list goes on and on. The city could have been so much more, if things had been redone correctly. I guess that's the price of mass tourism.


Getting to Monastir is quite easy. From Sousse, there are numerous trains. Buses (#52) leave about every 30 minutes from outside the Sousse medina. And louages (shared taxis) leave whenever full (the the station in Sousse is not conveniently located). Each take around 30 minutes to an hours and cost just under 2 TD. It was only a matter of time before the beautiful clear waters and white sand beaches of the area would be exploited. And you can hardly blame the local authorities for wanting to cash in. But the reconstructions could have been handled much better. Even with the touristy feel, Monastir is still worth a day trip either from Sousse, or in transit to places further south.