Takin' in Tozeur

To every Ying there is a Yang. That is to say for all white, there is black. For up there is down. All creating a universal harmonious balance. While Tunisia has nothing to do with this Taoist philosophy, it does have a prime example of it. In southern Tunisia there one city in particular where many tourists base themselves out of. As one might expect, it has all the problems of mass tourism. But i firmly believe that the benefits, at the very least, balance out these negative side effects.

I knew, going into the city of Tozeur, that the place was the main hub of tourists in southern Tunisia. I knew that there were no cool medinas to wander around. And i thought i knew that the 4X4 day trips were overpriced. Well, yes there were tourists, but unlike Matmata or Douz, Tozeur was big enough to conceal the tourists to the point that i hardly noticed them. There might not be a medina, but there is a kick-ass old quarter with some beautiful architecture. Except for a small part at the beginning, it lies virtually traditional from centuries past. Even with fairly aggressive Calesh drivers and would-be guides, you'll echo a simple "Bonjour" to most of the people you pass on the street.
Without question, for me the highlight of Tozeur is it's awesome old quarter (Ouled El-Hadef). Originally built in the 14th century for a rather wealthy clan, it's wonderful brickwork, with protruding geometric designs, are absolutely lovely. The labyrinth of alleyways, with hidden little square and mosques are highlighted by the intricate doors. Many with Berber designs. Some with 3 door knockers (man and woman) some with 3 (if they have children). I wandered around for literally 2 hours and only saw one other tourist. But, as part of the whole Ying/Yang thing, there will almost certainly be a few locals who will walk up to you starting a conversation "Where are you from? Oh! I have family member X living in city Z of your country". They will be quick to point out some little thing then say "You should see something" Of course this now becomes a "tour" and a tip will be expected. A kind "thank-you, I'm just taking photos" is more than enough to send them on their way. Although a tour is not such a bad idea.

It seems every city in the area has a palmeraie, but i liked Tozeurs' the best. As opposed to the one in Douz, the one in Tozeur winds it's way to and fro through the shadow of the palms. With a few little villages tucked inside (none particularly great) it offers more than most Palm groves. One of it's hidden treasures is the Chak Wak Park, an overpriced, over-zealous attempt at an amusement park/museum/who-knows-what. But that park is not the only example of oddities in the city. The Belvedere Rocks (title picture) are like some weird homage to Mt. Rushmore. BTW the rocks are not where described in the LP. The are instead straight along a newly paved road (not the sandy track). If that wasn't enough, the Disney-fied Dar Charait Museum is a reconstruction of a ancient palace. Although a little overpriced, the displays aren't half bad, and it's open crazy late (till midnight)

But if all this wasn't enough... if you still needed more... there are several excellent day trips out of the city. Visiting sand dunes near Ong Jemel or Douz, checking out mountain oasis villages like Tamerza, taking a scenic train the Red Lizard (only May to September) or even further destinations like Ksar Ghilane or Matmata are possible out of Tozeur. If you're lucky enough to have even MORE time on your hands, some nearby villages like Nefta and Gafsa are do-able in a day. Although neither village is particularly worth the effort. You can't get bored in Tozeur.


With a wide range of hotels and restaurant, with numerous tours and activities and with plenty in the city itself, Tozeur is (in my opinion) the best city in Tunisia. Even with it's mildly aggressive touts and shop keepers. Even with it's bizarre waste of money in it's odd attractions. Tozeur is well connected with the rest of the country. Cheap-ish flights to Tunis, overnight trains and buses and a plethora of louages (shared taxis) to take you anywhere you may need to go. While hard-core travellers may scoff with some remark like "Oh it's too touristy for me" I'd reply with "Bah-humbug" (sorry for the rough language). Most certainly, Tozeur and it's surroundings are one of the highlights of Tunisia.