Tunis is better than 1

Sometimes I still get surprised by places. After several previous forays into Northern Africa I thought i was well experienced to know what to expect long before my arrival for yet another trip. A dusty, dirty city with a rapidly crumbling imperialist infrastructure and an overly touristic historical centre were the norm in other parts of the region. But the Tunisian capital of Tunis wasn't quite like that. Sure it had elements of the decay mentioned, but it wasn't the defining factor of the city.

Tourist life in Tunis generally centres around the main street of Habib Bourguiba. Starting at the Place de 7 Novembre with it's landmark clock tower and ending up in the historic Medina. Cafes flood the sidewalks in this Ville Nouvelle (new city) as tourists and trendy locals walk and talk along this tree lined street. Surprisingly clean, it didn't really fit the mold as other capitals like Cairo or Rabat (although they are much bigger)There are a couple of interesting buildings like the theatre and cathedral. And the Jamaica Bar on top of the Hotel El Hana shouldn't be missed for it's views (even if you don't drink there). Local life is a few block north around the Republic "metro" stop. But there is little reason to visit here, unless you're looking for cheap food.
But it is the Medina that is the true heart of the city. For more years than i can count on my fingers and toes, the medina has been the centre of commerce and interaction. Growing out of the sides of the grand mosque, the Tunis medina is the way medinas are supposed to be. The clickity-clack of artisans hard at work, the sights and smells and the hard fought deals leaving neither patron nor customer content is intoxicating. The place is alive. Sure the main street from the Port de France to the Grand Mosque is incredibly touristic, but taking any other street shows the real face of the medina. And venturing a little north or south will have you essentially by yourself wandering through a blind man's city plan of meandering streets. Countless little make-shift cafes are around every corner. This is not just a place for tourists. In fact, once off the main street, you'll see FAR more locals than out-of-towners. Just west of the grand Mosque are several shops offering "panoramic" views. GO THERE!! It really is free to look, although you might have to listen to a sales pitch. One of the first shops was a palace of some sort or another and not only offers up great views (actually the medina is too tightly packed to be picturesque) but the tile work on the roof is amazing. If hoping to buy anything, get off the main street and bargain HARD. Dumb tourists tend to pay whatever the shopkeeper says. Which is usually 3 or 4 times the price.

The Bardo Museum is apparently worth the trip, but i didn't bother. There are a couple of great, and easy, day trips to do out of the capital too. 2 of them are on the same train line which can be found about 300m east of the clock tower. My favourite was Sidi Bou Said (i was there in the slow season which i assume makes a difference). The other, which i didn't like, was to the ruins of the ancient city of Carthage. If arriving to Tunis by plane, the metered taxi fare is only around 5TD. But they will very rarely go by the meter, quoting prices 10 times that. 10TD is a good price, 15TD is ok, don't pay 20. The train is well located. Just off the main street in the centre. I arrived by ferry. The nearest station is about a 15 minute walk from the ferry terminal. It's pretty simple, follow the road always choosing the left curve. Eventually you'll find the tracks behind a petrol station, the station is only a few meters along the tracks.


Tunis ain't half bad. That being said is was there in the off season. I can't imagine it during the busy season. It's a great base for day trips and the inevitable gateway into the country. Definitely worth a few days.