A Million Steps Back in Time

Early Meso-Americans are attributed with some of the greatest inventions in history. Universal education was a doosy. But how can we forget chewing gum, chocolate and popcorn. So my only question is, with the Mayans and Aztecs being among the most advanced groups of the pre-Columbian Americas, why the heck couldn't they have installed escalators on their pyramids? Dating back some 1,500 years plus, the site of Teotihuacan is literally littered with some of the largest Pyramids in the world. A visit to the area will involve taking about a million steps back in time.

Located about a hour North-East of the Mexican capital of Mexico City, stands one of the greatest archeological sites in the world. The exact origin of the area is up for debate. I'm not about to show my ignorance by siding with one side or the other. What seems to be agreed on is that the area, which covers some 83 km2, reached it's peak of around 200,000 inhabitants around 400 AD. But success was fleeting, as the empire ended a couple hundred years later. The city, of largely potters, jewellers and obsidian craftsmen, has no written texts. Hence the debate about so much about the area.

The city is bisected by a broad boulevard, known as the "Avenue of the Dead". The street, lined with ceremonial-type architecture and the odd mural is not the main attraction though. The Pyramid of the Moon is one of the biggest pyramids in the New World. I first visited the site 17 years ago, when i first lived in Mexico. I seem to remember being able to climb all the way to the top. Alas, only the halfway point is accessible now. It's all for the best if you ask me. It's already like a million damn steps. While it is entirely possible many step count is a little off, I have a good excuse. Some dumbfounding concoction of heat-stroke, altitude sickness and more cardio-vascular activity than i care to partake in an any one event may have contributed to my wavering between various states of consciousness. If that weren't enough, the Pyramid of the Sun, located within staggering distance of the Pyramid of the Moon, is even bigger. Being the second largest pyramid in the Americas. All i could think of was "Great! More steps."

If looking for an experience of solitude, Teotihuacan is not the place for you. The vendors and touts possibly outnumber the substantial numbers of tourists who make the jaunt from the capital. Busiest between the hours of 10 and 2, it's a challenge to walk more than 10 metres without someone trying to sell you something. It's also important to note that any one of the 2 trees on the site surprising don't offer a tonnes of shade. And it gets crazy hot. Be prepared (or at the very least have your will up to date). But if looking for a tacky plastic arrow-head, this may just be heaven.


Public buses leave from Mexico City's Northern Bus terminal around every 30 minutes (33 Pesos). Turn left when entering the terminal and the ticket stand is second from the last. Be sure to clarify you're going to the Pyramids and not the city. Admission is around $5.


It's tough to capture magic the second time around. When i visited Teotihuacan in the early '90's, i was bewildered by the magnitude of the whole thing. This time, after traversing the world several times over, I was less awestruck. Even so, Teitihuacan is one of the single greatest sites anywhere in the world and should most definitely be included on any visit to Mexico.