Sunday, March 21, 2010

Welcome to the Rock

If there's one thing the US does well, it's prisons. Most recently the atrocious human rights violations carried out at such places like Abu Ghraib, Guantanamo Bay and a handful of other secret prisons like the one in Lithuania have made international (although not much US) news. One possible reason for the efficiency that these places operate at such an elevated state of terror may be that the US has had a lot of practice. One anonymous quote describes one of the most infamous prisons well, "Break the rules and you go to prison. Break the prison rules and you go to Alcatraz".
The 1920's were a time of lawlessness in the States. Heralded gangsters, heading up mobs and gangs, flourished during a time of prohibition. The attempt to make alcohol illegal in the US only meant that a demand for bootleg moonshine was guaranteed to fund the likes of Al Capone and others. Bonnie and Clyde tore up the American country-side in a string of bank robberies. Kidnappings were a near daily occurrence. Something had to be done. J. Edgar Hoover was chosen to head up the newly established FBI. He made a personal mission to create a super-prison.

A Spanish name meaning Pelicans, Alcatraz Island will be forever etched into American history. Dating back as far as 1861, the tiny island in the middle of the San Francisco bay had long been used as a military prison. But it wasn't until 1933 when the facility was acquired from the US Department of Justice, by the Federal Bureau of Prisons, was it's notoriety truly ensured. That's when Hoover made his super prison. Deemed inescapable, starting January 1st 1934 America's most hardened prisoners were shipped out to the facility. A new era in "corrections" had begun.

Prison was never meant to be a happy-happy joy-joy wonderland where inmate frolic hand-in-hand through fields of daisies. But Alcatraz was famous for it's cold, damp isolation. "You are entitled food, clothing, shelter and medical attention. Anything else is a privilege." is a quote directly from rule #5 of the Inmate regulation handbook. Solitary confinement cell locked prisoners away from sunlight for days, or even weeks. Riots inevitably ensued, guards were shot down in cold blood. 14 escape attempts, involving 36 prisoners, ended with 23 caught, 6 shot and killed, 2 drowned, 2 caught and executed and 3 more assumed drowned (aka unconfirmed escape?) Some accounts say Alcatraz was one of the best places to be sent to. The cells, though cramped, were all private, with their own toilet. If you played by the rules it could have been worse. If you didn't it was worse. Much worse! But after 30 years of operation the prison faced increasing public scrutiny. This coupled with rising costs ($10/prisoner instead of the usual $3) forced attorney general Robert F. Kennedy to declare the prison closed in 1963.

Now days, 1,000 of tourists a day flock to pay the $26 to see the place up close. Which isn't such a bad deal as it includes a really good handheld, audio tour of the main cell blocks. One of the park rangers (it is a national park after all). Even gives a kick ass "escape attempts" summery. I think the trick is to go early. The first boat leaves at 9:00 and it's definitely worth being one of the first there, as the cell block fill up quickly. Personally, i was quite surprised at the advanced state of decay of most of the support buildings on the site. I mean with 1,000s of people paying $26 a day, that's more than enough money for a new coat of paint. But overall, I definitely liked the place and had no problem shelling out for the ticket. It really shouldn't be missed on any visit to San Francisco.

2 comments:

Mike said...

Like the pictures, I've always wanted to go there. You're absolutely right, we do prisons well. Can't really argue with that.

This is Joe! said...

Definitely try to go. The tours given (including the audio tour) are quite good. And it's probably one of the most famous paces in the States.