Oaxaca Day Trippin'

When on holiday, one of the last things you'd ever think you'd hear yourself saying is "Man! I need to get out of the city!!" The regional capital of Oaxaca, Mexico is certainly full of charm. But, in my opinion, it is the surrounding country-side that should be recognized as the true lure of the area.

With 16 different ethnic groups in the region, Oaxaca is a treasure trove for any budding anthropologist. This coupled with the magnificent history of the province, there is plenty to see outside of the city. Each highlight is reachable by cheap public transport, but this method tends to be time consuming, and not that much cheaper than joining one of the tours on offer. So getting up earlier than I usually care to while on holiday, I hopped into a mini-van with a bunch of tourists from the Mexico City area. The tour guide offered to do it in English, as well as Spanish, but I figured I'd be fine. The first stop was a mere 9km out of Oaxaca in the village of Santa Maria del Tule. A fairly unremarkable village except for one bit of remarkable flora. The aptly named Arbol del Tule (tree of Tule) holds the record for the "Stoutest" tree in the world. Not the tallest. Nor the oldest. Just the fattest. With a circumference of 36.2 m and a diameter of 11.62m, it would certainly need to shop in the "Plus sized" section of the jeans shop. But it is just a tree, after all. Frankly not the greatest show on Earth. After a few photos, it was time to head off.

The next stop was a village rich in Zapotec culture. The Zapotecs are one of the larger ethnic groups in the area, and the village of Teotitlan is famous for it's traditional arts and crafts. More specifically, it is known for it's textiles (called Laadi in the local language). The main economic activity in the region dates back some 2,500 years, although most of the carpets are slightly younger than that. All materials, from the wool to the dyes to equipment used are all natural. The process itself isn't really unique. I've seen it in countless other countries around the world. But the somewhat diminutive artists are hospitable and friendly. Keeping up with modern times, many of the families now offer homestays where guests can take part in courses in weaving or cooking. Prices will vary, as everything, depending on your bargaining abilities. The family I spoke to had excellent, though simple facilities. And a view to die for. Contact Raul at gasper_chavez@hotmail.com if interested.

From old traditions to old cities, the next place on the cavalcade of hits was the ancient town on Mitla (title photo). Dating back some 2,500 years, it is the second most important archaeological site in the state (after Monte Alban). Whereas Monte Alban was the political centre 2,000 years ago, Mitla was the religious centre. The site is less than overwhelming, although there are a few tunnels and such to clamber through giving a real Indiana Jones type feeling. One of the greatest differences between sites like Teotihuacan and Chitzen Itza is that Mitla was still inhabited at the time when Europeans first came. As such, numerous old churches are built on some of the ancient "temples" as an attempt to convert the locals to Catholicism. The city is still a bustling little place. I guess it worked. The archaeological site is an additional 37 pesos on top of the tour price.

After a slightly expensive, although good lunch, a food coma set it. With concentration lost i had no idea what the guide was talking about. But luckily words weren't need for the next, and best, site. Actually, Hierve el Agua was so cool, it deserves it's own blog entry. After a fair bit of time to check out the petrified waterfalls and natural mineral pools, it was back into the min-van. Even with the pretty scenery passing by the window, everyone passed out. Only to be awoken at a Mezcal distillery. While everyone has heard of Tequila, Mezcal is the original indigenous drink. Tequila is simply a place where a milder derivative is mass produced for commercial purposes. Mezcal is almost exclusively made in small little shops and in a very traditional manner. If having a food coma, compounded by the heat and sun, weren't enough, a few tester shots of Mezcal was more than enough to cap off the day.

Several agencies in Oaxaca offer the same tour. There is very little difference between them. The typical price is 200 Pesos. Keeping in mind and addition 5 Pesos is requested at the Arbol del Tule, 37 Pesos at Mitla and 40 Pesos at Hieve el Agua. Plus the 130 Pesos for the buffet lunch. It's not a cheap day, but worth it. With a mix of culture, history and nature, there's something for everyone.

You can check out a video of the day on my other blog, Been There, Filmed That.