An explosion of colour, dance and music

The cultural diversity of the pre-Columbian Americas is often dismissed for it's introduced European bloodline. The fact of the matter is that the Americas were made of of 100s, if not 1,000s of diverse tribal groups, each with their own languages, customs and traditions. Mexico is certainly no exception to this ethic cornucopia. I recently chose to live southern state of Oaxaca largely due to this variety. With 16 distinct groups in the region, it is Mexico's most diverse. And when better to see them than in a local festival celebrating the music, dance and food of the people.

Held every year around the same time (late April to early May) is a minor festival loosely translated as “the Celebration of Diverse Humanity”. For two weeks there is a blinding fury of performances throughout the regional capital of Oaxaca de Juarez. The city's already vibrant atmosphere explodes in a kaleidoscope of traditional clothing, musicians, flowers and dancing. The fact that the state of Oaxaca remains one of the countries poorest, dealing with deeply rooted political tensions, seems to melt away in the melodious vibe. Theatres, churchyards and public squares fill with makeshift stages for the performing hordes. All shows are free and shockingly well organized, almost beginning at scheduled times (a major feat for Mexico). And if the diversity of Oaxaca wasn't enough, groups are invited nearby states, like Chiapas and Yucatan, making even MORE to bombard to the senses.

Parades start the whole event, with giant “dolls” marching down the streets engulfed by a sea of brass instruments, fun loving spectators and bewildered tourists. Although sounding like something out of a Stephan King novel, it is likely the highlight of the whole event. Carrying on for ages, I was tuckered out after the first couple hours. For the next couple weeks, it is pretty much guaranteed there's something going on in the central square, Zocalo. Things generally kick off around 6 (as the daytime is too hot) There are numerous lawn chairs set up and there's is plenty of standing room. Any announcements are in Spanish (sometimes in the indigenous languages). There are some poems or traditional songs which can't be fully appreciated without speaking the language, but the dances and such need no translation. Dancing with masks or flowers or fire or whatever, the whole event is heaps of fun.

Probably the easiest way to find out what's happening when (all year round, not just the festival) is to check out the Oaxaca Calendar. It's a great time to take pictures of people, as they don't mind if you stick your camera in their faces. While certainly not the most spectacular of festivals (there are bigger ones in Oaxaca) it's most definitely worth checking out.