Monday, June 21, 2010

Gushin' over Uxmal

Far too often, it is easy to grow disinterested by national landmarks. When travelling through Western Europe you swear that if you have to see 1 more freaking church, someone is going to die. Or you may hear yourself saying, "ohhhh, not another mausoleum" when travelling through Central Asia. Central America can be like that in terms of Mayan ruins. While I liked Teotihuacan, i was disappointed in Monte Alban and found little reason to recommend Mitla. The Yucatan Peninsula has plenty of ruins to add to the mix, with the added bonus of an endless onslaught of tourist buses. But against my better judgement, I opted to explore the ruins of Uxmal.

Uxmal was yet another important Mayan site. First settled in 600 AD, the city had to overcome serious water issue. Strange thing about the Yucatan Peninsula is there is pretty much no above ground water. But this issue was handled expertly by the Mayan. As series of reservoirs and cisterns ensured that the city had water all year long. This was critical for the city as it bloomed to a sizable population. There is an obvious allegiance to the Mayan water god, Chac, with serpent images everywhere. That was until 900 AD, when an extended period of drought spelt the end of fairytale city. It was allowed to decay over the year, and indeed centuries. It wasn't until the early 20thcentury that the site was rediscovered.

The biggest difference between Uxmal and other sites, in terms of tourist appeal, is it's setting. Whereas most other ruins are fully exposed to the merciless sun, with little to no shade to be found, Uxmal is rather well forested. Besides the obvious benefit of having the option the escape the heat, the trees give an Indiana Jones/Tomb Raider-esque feel. And if that wasn't enough, the area is literally crawling with enormous Iguanas and bird life. Furthermore, when compared to sites like Teotihuacan and Chitzen Itza, Uxmal is relatively empty. Allowing moments of solitude among the ancient stone giants.

Admission to the site is a little under US$10 which includes a sound and light show for those who can stick around for it. Numerous tour agencies in Merida offer transport or tours of the site. But, for me, the best way to to catch a local bus. Buses leave frequently from around 7am from the bus station in Merida. The 1 hour trip costs a little over M$40 and it pretty much drops you off at the front gate. To come back, just stand on the other side of the road and wait for a bus.

Uxmal may not be the biggest archeological site in Mexico, nor is it the most famous or most ornate. But based on the relative lack of crowds and the jungle-esque setting, i'd have to rate it as my favourite in the country.

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