Another Lung Burnin' Capital

Heading down to the local travel agent and picking up a travel brochure for anywhere in Central America, you'd be hard pressed to see any mention of the capitals. Already on this trip passing through Guatemala City and Belmopan/Belize City it was pretty clear why. Lacking any major attractions is the least of the worries of the capitals. And heavy pollution is something a lot of developing cities have to deal with. But throwing in serious threats to personal safety, it's no wonder most travellers use the capitals merely as a transport hub. So while in El Salvador, i pretty much knew what i was getting into by visiting the capital city, San Salvador.

San Salvador is one of those cities that was screwed from the get go. Early urban colonial development had no idea that San Salvador would become the capital of the most densely populated country in the Americas. The city is cursed with narrow streets leading to the inevitable horrible traffic. If this wasn't bad enough, sidewalks overflow with make-shift market stalls essentially forcing pedestrians into the streets to compete with the antiquated buses chugging there way along at a snails pace only to sprint in the event of open road. So what has happened is the downtown has been left to decay while plans of newer development happen in the suburbs. The churches, essentially the only "attractions" in the downtown area, have been stained from the constant bombardment of toxic exhaust belched by the congested traffic. My lungs actually burned after walking around for a while, and my eyes constantly watered. There are a few concrete plazas or unkept parks giving the homeless, prostitutes and junkies a place to take it easy for a while. Crime is common, almost expected. Locals will physically restrain you if you say you plan to walk somewhere at night.

It could be worse, and I've seen worse. El Salvadoreans have had to overcome a brutal civil war in the early '90s. They have proven themselves a hearty bunch. There is new development taking place. Massive modern malls, new hotels and shiny (heavily guarded) residential areas are popping up in the suburbs. And as one would expect, the countries best museums are spread around the capital. While this makes navigating the city as a tourist a pain, the locals march on. One bright note for travellers, the city's transport is fairly well organized. All intercity buses are corralled in two geographically oriented terminals making getting out of town all the easier.

Re-reading this post, it seems like i think San Salvador is hell of Earth. It's not, far from it. But Central America has so much to offer that there is really no reason for anyone to spend any more time that absolutely necessary in the El Salvadorean capital.