Hopin' for a Miracle

I had entered El Salvador with reasonably low expectations. Statistically the least visited country in a region teeming with tourists, i figured there must be a reason why people were staying away. While these are usually the kind of places i gravitate toward, reports from other travellers (a majority of which were “less than inspiring”) prepared me for the fact that i wouldn't exactly be impressed. But even still, i was highly disappointed. The Ruta de las Flores was rather disagreeable. And the capital, San Salvador, was a typically off-put-ish Central American capital. But i wasn't quite ready to throw in the towel and dismiss the country all together. On my way to the Honduran border i decided to give it one more shot, stopping in the town of Suchitoto. I'm glad i did.

A colonial town, in a long line of colonial towns in Central America, Suchitoto somehow stood out of the crowd. It hadn't been Barbie-fied like Antigua in Guatemala or hippie-fied like San Cristobal in Mexico. Suchitoto just felt “real”. Don't get me wrong, tourism here had it's impact, but it seemed more sustainable. Sure the cafes in the central square played Jack Johnson on there speakers, but it's was turned down. Sure the billboard menus were in English, but they served local food (and hamburgers of course) This is not a place where tourism has overwhelmed a small community, but has instead integrated itself into it. There were no tour buses or backpacker shuttles. In fact in the 2 ½ hours i sat there eating my lunch, i counted 4 cars passing through the centre. Whether your choice of wording would be to say laid-back or chilled or relaxed it wouldn't matter as Suchitoto is all those and more.

The town is quaint. With cobblestoned street throughout, red clay tiled roofs and mostly white walls the place was rather pleasing. Simple “holas” from children hanging out their windows, horses hitched outside shop doors or the chirping of 200 different species of birds (not all at the same time) were just a few of the small factor parts equating to a larger peaceful whole. The biggest downfall i might be able to pin on the place (and it´s a bit of a stretch) was the town was a little hilly. And being quite hot, i sweated more than might be considered socially acceptable. But heck, if that's the biggest problem for the place, it ain't doing too badly. Suchitoto will never make a list of the “10 best party places in Central America”. But that's not what the town is about. It is a clean (relative term), quiet bastion in a turbulent "El Salvadorean" sea of chaos.

While the town itself may not be overly exciting, there are plenty of things to do to keep oneself occupied. Suchitoto overlooks Lago Suchtilan (not actually a lake but a reservoir). The top of what where once hill now accept their new job as islands. Kayaking, boating, swimming and other such water related frivolity are up for offer. Not to mention the above average bird watching. But if still water ain't your thing, there are 2 pretty waterfalls within walking distance of the town. Cascadas Los Tercios are waterfalls better known for what they're falling over as opposed to the falling itself. Though hard a torrent, the bizarre hexagonal stone spires are interesting. Salto el Cubo might be more voluminous, but i preferred the C.L.T. for it's uniqueness. Tours even run out to the nearby volcano where hikes will take you to some old guerrilla camps from El Salvador's brutal civil war.

Suchitoto is well connected to San Salvador. Direct buses leave the captial's terminal de oriente for less than $1 for the 1 hour+ trip. And if heading to Honduras, it a simple connection in Aguilares for a border bound bus. Suchitoto most certainly saved a seemingly inescapable negative opinion of my time in El Salvador. It is unfortunately not enough for me to recommend a visit to the country, but it is unquestionably the number 1 suggestion i'd have for anyone already planning to go to El Salvador.