A Place Out of Place

Growing up, there was a song on a children's show that went “One of these things is not like the other. One of these things just doesn't belong...”. Then, 3 or 4 things would be shown like an apple, an orange and a Pterodactyl devouring a fluffy white bunny (kid's shows were tough in Canada). You then pick out the obvious mistake (in this case the orange) and Bob's your uncle. Well, if playing this game with cities in Guatemala, the city of Antigua most certainly would be the one that doesn't belong.

The Spaniards had issues trying to set up a capital in Guatemala. There first choice, Iximché, couldn't withstand a native rebellion. Choice number two, Ciudad Vieja, was buried under a volcanic mudslide. Choice number 3 did pretty well for a while. La Muy Noble y Muy Leal Ciudad de Santiago de los Caballeros de Goathemala (now known as Antigua) was founded in March of 1543. This was THE city in Central America for the better part of 300+ years. And as such, the city benefitted greatly from the flood on money which tended to accompany politicians and clergy (just like today). The city grew quickly and magnificently. Churches, universities and local newspapers were but a couple of little things setting the city apart from others as a major cultural and political hub. But the party was guaranteed to end at some point. Seeing as the town is wedged between 3 volcanoes (all 3,800m+) and all are active to some degree or another, it was only a matter of time until a big quake would send them running. And in 1773, that's exactly what happened. With the city all but destroyed, Antigua was ordered abandoned and the capital was moved to Guatemala City.

However, the city was never completely deserted. A few who defied orders and stuck around started fixing the place up. Around 50 years after the big one, the city was actually doing quite well. The colonial facades were redone, the streets repaired. All giving the city a bit of it's former glory.

Today, to say Antigua has nothing in common with any other city in the region would be an understatement. Here, the garbage is collected regularly. Here, the streets aren't jammed with toxin spewing vehicles. Here, people speak English. The city is clean, quiet and pretty (all relative terms). But for the majority of travellers, the city is kind of the opposite of any original priorities to visit Central America. Sure, you are more likely to find McDonald's instead of local food. Sure, you might have to search for a Spanish menu. Sure, there are more foreigners in the city than Guatemalans. But that's the city's “thing”. Obviously the business in town in Spanish. Everywhere you turn there's a Spanish school. And not just one, signs in town are quick to show you the trend in town. Not only are there internet cafes, but they're internet cafes/Spanish schools. Restaurant... and Spanish school. Hotel... and Spanish school. Although i don't really understand why someone would go to the trouble of going all the way to Guatemala to study Spanish in a town where English is the dominate language.

Unfortunately, the market in town isn't the best. it's the sort of place to pick up cheap Chinese imports or pirated DVDs. And transport isn't so great either. Sure if you're heading to Guatemala City, there's a "chicken bus" every 30 seconds or so. But if heading to, say, Lake Atitlan, there might be as many as 3 or 4 transfers to get there. Many backpacker opt for the shuttle services offered at one of many travel agencies around. They might be a little more expensive, but you have to pay for convenience. And as for accommodation, you can't walk more than 10 meters without bumping into a hostel, hotel or guesthouse.

There is no denying that Antigua is a pretty town. Surrounded by volcanoes, town has a plethora of churches and parks and monuments to check out. There's even a pretty look-out over the city, complete with armed security (there used to be a mugging problem). While some discuss the town with their noses turned up at the Barbie-fication of the whole thing, I kind of liked it. It is certainly very photogenic, although my visit wasn't bless with good enough weather for decent shots.