Friday, July 9, 2010

¿Que Tal, Tikal?

The unmistakeable images of Indiana Jones tramping through some virgin rainforest only to stumble upon a lost temple unseen by human eyes for a millennia, have been etched into the collective conscience of a generation. Alas, such opportunities of exploration are all but gone in our modern world. And for those remaining, few people are afforded the chance to delve into the furtherest places of the Amazon or the deepest, darkest heart of Africa. There are, however, places where even the most unadventurous tourist can capture the smallest sense of what it must be like.

Nestled into the think jungles of northern Guatemala, the ruins of Tikal offer up such an experience. Dating back as far as 2,400 years ago, and reaching it's peak around 400 to 900 AD, Tikal was certainly a power to be reckoned with in it's time, rivalling even the mighty Teotihuacan. This success led to tremendous growth in the city. But like all great civilizations Tikal dwindled over time. Eventually, the city was deserted and forgotten around 1,000 years ago. But what it has left behind amount to what I believe to be the single most impressive of the pre-Columbian Mayan ruins in Central America.
But it's not the historical importance that sets Tikal apart from other ruins in the region. It's not even the individual monuments, some towering over 44m. It is instead the truly symbiotic setting with it's densely overgrown jungle surroundings. Howler and spider monkeys leap through the tree tops as more bird varieties than you could ever hope to count sing their songs of the forest. Without question the site needs to be visited as early as possible in the day (the gates open at 6am). And i CAN NOT stress enough the vital importance to head directly to Temple IV at the back of the complex. With stair leading up the side the view from the top has become one of my favourite memories. And for someone who travels as much as i do, that's saying something. But as the day progress, there are fewer birds, the mist rises from the foliage and the endless droning of backpackers bragging about how drunk they got last night and how drunk they plan on getting tonight drowns out the nature.

There are a few accommodation choices at Tikal itself, but they are in general overpriced. It is much more popular to stay in the town of Flores, about 1 hours away. Mini-buses can be booked for around Q40-Q50 departing as early as 4:30 am (enjoy your vacation). The drive follows along Lake Peten-Itza for a bit before heading for the jungle (watch for the wildlife warning signs) The site itself is kind of pricey as foreigners pay Q150 (US$20) But like Angkor Wat in Cambodia or the Taj Mahal in India, Tikal is certainly worth the price of admission. Even though it's hardly what one might call a hidden treasure, Tikal has become one of my favourite ruins in the world.

0 comments: