The Jewels in a Watery Crown

When i travel, i look for something different, something i can't find at home. I enjoy being in situations so completely foreign and alien that i could never in a million years “fit in”. The simple things like language, clothing and physical appearance are sometimes enough to cement the outlander experience. So while architecture is pretty and I love natural settings, it is more often than not the people that make or break a place for me. Lake Atitlan in Guatemala is renowned and heavily hyped for it's stunning environs. But i believe that it's the traditional lifestyles of its indigenous people, coupled with the geographical blessings, that makes this place legendary.

There are several villages surrounding the 128 km2 lake, each with its own distinct character. The vast majority of travellers to the region are likely to arrive into the most built up of these towns, Panahachel. Pana, as it's commonly referred to as, is perfect. That is to say it's a perfect example of everything that is wrong with the tourism industry. Without any regulation, foresight or planning, restaurants, hotels and shops have literally been built on top of one another. The ramshackle construction method are not only incredibly ugly, but have proven to be dangerous. Tropical Storm Agatha unleashed a mini flood into the river running through town. Due to the idiotic building frenzy, a number of unsafe buildings (including hotels and restaurants) were washed into the lake as the river bank they precariouslybalanced on gave way. And even in the more organized area of Calle Santander, a backbacker ghetto has sprung from the dusty streets. The indigenous don't live here, merchants do. Needless to say, i'm not a fan of Panahachel. And while there are a few gems among the refuse, my advice is to get out of town as quickly as possible.

The village of San Pedro may only be across the lake from Pana, but it might as well be on the other side of the world a world apart. Longer term, foreign “residents” of the Lake tend to call this town home. The mix of dreadlocked hippie poi twirlers and mid life crisis American men surprisingly goes together well. But on the far side of town (the town is only about 2 kms wide) local Mayan women proudly display their intricate Huipiles (tunic), while men linger in the squares. Pace seems slower, quieter and down-to-Earth. But i only stopped here a short time as i felt that the two groups (locals and foreigners) seemed to be rather segregated, really not integrating at all. It didn't really have the right vibe for me.

I opted to spend time in the lakes' second largest town of Santiago. And although the guidebooks call it the second most touristy town, i found it quite the opposite. Sure, day-trippers would hop off the tour boat, stroll halfway up the main central street, then wander back to the boat. However, if they were to just step into any of the side alleyways, it's like being transported into another world. A mixed up array of doorways and alleyways and hidden shops that only a local could make sense of. But i was shocked at how few tourists stayed. The hotel i stayed at, which had 20 rooms, was empty. I was even there for one of the market days, and i saw only 1 other foreign couple. And don't get me started on the market. This is one of the main reasons i travel. Magnificently dressed Kaqchiquel and Tz'utujils women come fully decked out in Huipiles, Cortes and Kaperraj while chattering away in the local Mayan dialect. The place is a buzz with buying and selling and talking and laughing and life. Fruits, vegetables, clothing, chickens and just about everything else is bartered and bargained for as if this were the last market day on Earth. The beauty of the moment augmented by the natural beauty towering over the town.

None of the towns around the lake will win any beauty pageants. But the beauty of the surroundings and the people hep to turn a blind eye to the buildings. I've only mentioned a couple of the towns here. There are a number of towns , seemingly all starting with San, that are waiting. You can't really go wrong choosing one of these or some other one, just as long as you get out of Panahachel.