Like Moths to a Flame

Things can change in a heart beat. Or in my case, in a border crossing. Crossing into Costa Rica from the fairly remote Rio San Juan district of Nicaragua is like stepping onto a different planet. Having to take a boat up river to the border post is a wonderfully unique way to go through immigration. But that's about where the novelty wears off. Because once through immigration, the first logical stop on the Costa Rican side is the tourist mecca of La Fortuna and Arenal, the poster child for mass tourism.

As you approach the town of La Fortuna, the reason for the influx of tourists in what is otherwise a sleepy little town is clear. The massive Arenal volcano (1,633 m) towers over the surrounding country-side. At the heart of the aptly named Arenal Volcano national park, the fire mountain attracts foreigners like moths to a flame. The volcano was a sleeping giant for the better part of half a century, without so much as a peep for 400 years. But that all changed in astoundingly dramatic fashion on July 29th, 1968. A massive eruption saw Arenal blow out 3 new craters. In the process destroying the nearby town of Tubacon among other, 78 people losing their lives. But in the aftermath, a small town was completely spared. That town has now transformed into modern day La Fortuna (the luck).

The town itself is nothing special. Although the central garden is beautifully manicured. The main street wouldn't be out of place in south-western US. There is more English spoken here than Spanish. There is a complete lack of cultural identity. But it's not the town people come to see. Every other enterprise in the centre is a tour operator and the majority of tours centre around the volcano. The biggest of these tours are night walks to the active side of the national park with hopes of getting the elusive blurry red blobby picture of what you will have to explain is actually lava running down the side of the mountain. Arenal has remained active since it's awakening 40+ years ago. Treks vary from stepping out of a van onto a bridge to 2 hour uphill slogs. But the end result is more often than not the same. Seeing lava is a matter of luck. Not only does there have to be volcanic activity at the exact right time, but the weather has to be good enough to see the volcano. Chances of both happening aren't all that great. If you have time to play with, most companies will allow you to do the tour again the following day for less money (just the $4 park fee)

But this town is not a one-trick pony. There are numerous things to do while waiting for the night time natural fireworks display. With volcanoes come hot springs, and Arenal has plenty of them. Most are pricey ($18 is the cheapest) but there are a couple free ones, usually part of the lava tour. One of the countries best waterfalls, La Fortuna Waterfall, is relatively close to the town. Although walkable, the heat makes it an uncomfortable walk. Good news is you can take a refreshing dip in the pool at the bottom to cool of, after paying the ridiculous $8 admission fee first. The area abounds with wildlife, and nature walks are a good way to get up close and personal with nature. There are also the ubiquitous canopy walks, kayak trips, horse-back riding and almost any other activity that one find in most tourists towns of Costa Rica.

Getting to town is super easy, there are local buses, tourist shuttles and everything in between, plus the jeep-boat-jeep option across Arenal Lake (they aren't too original with names around here) to the equally touristic Monte Verde.

I think as long as you know what you're in for, it's not that bad. Arenal is tourist, VERY touristy. And there are no indigenous dances or unique architecture or traditional foods. There is a volcano, a million tourists and a bland little town. Forewarned is forearmed. And with the knowledge of what to expect, Arenal is bearable. Actually, it serves it's purpose quite well.