Not that Granada, the Other One

A quick Google for a place called Granada, is likely to turn up a couple dozen cities, towns, provinces and other such geographic designations all throughout Spain and the Americas. But if travelling to Nicaragua in Central America, there is no question to which Granada people are referring. One of the oldest colonial cities in the Americas and one time powerhouse city, Granada is part of almost every travellers itinerary to Nicaragua.

"Gran Sultana", as it's nicknamed, the city of Granada was founded way back in 1524, only 32 years after Columbus's landing. Established on the immense Lake Nicaragua, it wasn't until they figured out that the Rio San Juan connected the lake with the Caribbean Sea that Granada really took off economically. And really, no expense was spared as the Spanish were almost trying to show off by building the most ornate city they could, even in the savage "New World". For few hundred years, Granada was the dominate city in the entire region. Even a few sackings from the occasional pirate weren't enough to to slow the economic juggernaut.But the nearby city of Leon was always a thorn in Granada's side, with the two constantly battling it out for control over the country. But in the 1850's (with the help of American William Walker) the liberal Leon finally trashed it's conservative counterpart. But Granada rebuilt. Spared from most of the fighting during Nicaragua's revolution and Contra War, the place is again a centre of attention.

While Leon and Antigua, Guatemala are strong contenders, Granada would certainly win a "Best colonial architecture" award. The central Granada Cathedral may get all the attention, but the city is FULL of churches. But actually it's the Iglesia San Francisco that gets my vote for best church. While most of Granada has been burnt to the ground (several times) then rebuilt, Iglesia S.F. is the least rebuilt (if that makes any sense). You;d never know it's the oldest church in Central America. Other than the churches, the city maintains a familiar pastel coloured facade that a visit to any colonial city in the region exudes. If feeling lazy, horse-drawn carriages are at the ready to whisk you away to the cities main sites. Heck, even the city's cemetery is a tourist attraction. "Hosting" 6 presidents and numerous wealthy, the place is a monument to death. There are old forts and butterfly reserves and countless other things to occupy your time in Granada.

However... there is only one problem with the city, the people. The foreign-type people abound in Granada. Clenching their water bottles in one hand and their Lonely Planets in the other, this is the most touristic city in the country by a long shot. Backpackers, family and even school trips wander around in a daze. I've been to touristic places before, that i can deal with. But it's the local people that were a real turn off. I stayed a couple different hotels. In each place i was treated as if my patronage was an inconvenience to the staff. Touts line the streets, calling at you from every direction. But the one that got me are the INCREDIBLY rude things locals would say under their breath, assuming the foreigners are too stupid to understand. Not to mention ridiculous tourist taxes and service charge tacked on tho everything to rip off the tourists.

I'm not really sure how to call this one. With so much history and architectural beauty, one would think it would be easy to recommend. However, i just can't get over what i thought were the rudest people in Central America (not to mention the abundant tourists). Time might be better spent at the nearby Laguna de Apoyo (although equally overpriced). I guess with the copious amount of things to do in the city and a number of good day trips, a stay in Granada wouldn't be the end of the world. Just don't talk to the people.