Pride of Leon

We've all had war effect us in some way or another. Some were big wars, others were smaller. Some profoundly change the course of human history, other have largely been forgotten. Central America has seen it's problems. European invasion, communist waves of enthusiasm or any number of of courses have been taking place in countries like Guatemala and Honduras for ages, with a history written by the winners. In Nicaragua, one of the “losers” still hangs it's head high. A city of art and culture who lost the national seat of power, politically and spiritually. And a few centuries ago, government and church were all that mattered (kind of like today). The city of Leon lost their people struggle with arch-enemy Granada. But Leon is not a sore loser.
Leon has a tumultuous 400 year history. Leon was the original capital. A title soon lost to Granada, who it turn has lost it to Managua. Leon's story reads the a classic spy book involving bringing in foreigner fighter (namely US mercenary William Walker). It's a story of betrayal as Walker declares himself president a calls Nicaragua a “slave state”). And it's a story of revenge as Walker is executed by the locals. But while this story was being written Leon took it upon itself to be a capital worthy city, even after the original city was destroyed by an volcano. The cathedral in the “New Leon” is impressive. And i know colonial churches get a little old after travelling in Central America for a while... but, the cathedral in Leon is the grand-daddy of cathedrals. This os the largest colonial place of worship in Central America. Although not as flashy as the cathedral in Granada (total face-lift), the one in Leon is more “real”. In fact, that the thing about Leon. It's not pretty like Granada or Antigua in Guatemala. It's not a ethnic like Oaxaca or San Cristobal in Mexcio. But Leon feels more real. Perhaps it's the lack of cosmetic surgery the other old cities are getting. And so, i guess i liked the city.

Similar to Oaxaca in Mexico, Leon always seem to have something on. It is a city of artist so plays, concerts, demonstrations or impromptu performances are always taking place. It helps the city feel alive. It is here you are more likely to see Nicaragua's traditional dances and costumes. As the country in general has lost touch were their indigenous heritage. Leon is definitely in touch with it's most recent issues in the '80s. Leon was central Sandinista's territory and it has made the locals quite liberal compared to the rest of a much more conservative country. There are plenty of museums celebrating art, history and political ideologies to fill several days of touristing. And you could visit 1 church everyday in a year and still not see all of them (slight exaggeration). The city has in fact petitioned to becom officially known as the “City of Churches” . But the main cathedral has a great view point you must check out. Buy a ticket behind the church in a cellar, then climb the stairs in front for a great view over the city and to the volcanoes in the distance (weather permitting).

I know that when travelling through Central America you think “Man, if i see another freakin' colonial town, i'm gonna draw and quarter someone! Maybe myself!!” But Leon is definitely worth a stop. It is arguably the most authentic feeling of all the big towns. And the city still feels alive, although not terribly photogenic. While i can't imagine spending much more than a couple days there, Leon should definitely put on the itinerary of any planning to visit Nicaragua.