Sunday, August 1, 2010

Thanks, but no Gracias

Many travellers often worry about not being able to speak the local language. While it's true that it might limit opportunities to get to know the locals, sometimes the ability to converse ain't all it's cracked up to be. Let me submit, as Exhibit A, a simple question/answer exchange i had while travelling in Honduras (translated from Spanish):

Me: Hello. How do i go, thank-you?

Bystander: Ok, you're welcome.

Me: No. I need transport, thank-you

Bystander: I'm sorry, but i'm walking too. Should i carry you?

Me: Thank-you, information would be helpful.

Bystander: No problem, glad i could help.

Not even Abbott and Costello never had to put up with this crap. I guess that's what happens when you name your town Gracias (Spanish for thank-you)

Located in the hills of south-western Honduras, the village of Gracias is the gateway to the Ruta Lenca, a series of mountain villages with populations all under 10,000.Or for some, it's a base from which to springboard into the Parque National Montana do Celenque, a remote rough-and-tumble sort of park with challenging ascents into the cloud forests of Honduras's highest peak. Gracias is a tiny colonial town (that's right another colonial town) where cobble-stoned streets spider-web out from a central church in the middle of a reasonably manicured square. The local Lenca peoples, aren't as traditional as other indigenous groups you'd find in Guatemala or Mexico. As a matter of fact, you'd struggle to point them out if it weren't for the shops selling traditional pottery (some of the best wares in Honduras). There are a couple of “museums” trying to promote and preserve the traditional art, but they feel more like shops than museums. Other than church and the museum/shop there's a small botanical garden to check out. Although i don't really get the idea of a botanical garden when you're in the middle of a forest.

Likely the highlight of the town, though, is the 18th century Fuerte de San Cristobal(St. Christopher Fort). Perched on a hilltop on the edge of town, the fort offer great views over the town and surrounding country-side as one might expect a fort to do. There isn't much to see up there though. That is except for locals eating each others face in some sort of romantic expression of youthful love. But the good news is the fort is free and you can take a picture of the tomb of Juan Lindo. WOW! He was the former president of El Salvador AND Honduras, although at different times. Alternatively, if you're up for a stroll, about 4 kms out of town are Balneario hot springs. A series of cascading thermal pools VERY popular on weekends or holidays. It is possible to get a taxi out here, but be prepared to bargain hard.

Buses leave for Santa Rosa de Copan either when full or when the driver gets bored. And there were rumoured buses all the way to San Pedro Sula, but i didn't see any. Maybe i'm just “colonial town”-ed out. But for me, Gracias isn't really worth the effort to get out here. Sure is cute or quaint or whatever adorable little word guidebook authors choose to mask the fact that a place is boring, but unless you have an abundance of time to spend in Honduras, just say no thanks to Gracias.

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