Up the Creek...

There's just something exotic about having to boat your way up river to reach a destination, where the highways are the waterways. I don't mean taking a boat as an alternative method like along the Nile, but instead as the only method, like in central Borneo. It seems once you diverge from typical transportation method, everything changes. I once again found this to be true while heading up the Rio San Juan on the Nicaraguan/Costa Rican border on my way to the village of El Castillo.

Although regional capital of San Carlos may not win “the most remote city in Central America” award, sometimes it's a honour just being nominated. But it is here that the journey up the Rio San Juan (St. John River) begins. A really, anywhere would be better than San Carlos. Heading down to the pier, it's easy enough to find the long, narrow “lanchas” that are the chicken buses of the waterways. Actually, they are more likely to find you as any tourist in the region can only have one destination in mind, the river town of El Castillo (the castle) named after... you guessed it, a castle perched on it's hilltop. But we'll get to that later.After hearing about how beautiful the river trip was, i was initially rather disappointed. The land was flat, featureless marshland, there was no wildlife and no signs of any traditional homes lining the river. Well, that was for the first 30 minutes or so. After all, it is around 3 hours, downstream to El Castillo. As advertised, the scenery changed dramatically. Thick virgin rainforest spilt over into the river. Random branches draped with a variety of waterbirds looking like some sort of Chinese lantern festival. It would have been cool to see a jaguar or crocodile or pterodactyl or something (most of which can be spotted deeper in the jungle) but it didn't really matter. Traditional stilt house lean over the river banks, while others timidly stand a little further back from the edge. Locals in hollowed out canoes wave (as does everyone else) as the “lancha” plies forward. While El Castillo is typically the favoured stop, it is by no means the only one. Boca de Sabalos, the first real “town” for about 2 hours, is about 30 minutes before El Castillo. While there are a few hotel choices in the village, this place is often skipped by the few tourists that come up here. Maybe 1 km downstream places like Sabalos Lodge offer modernized stilted huts in the jungle attempting to create a more authentic atmosphere (for a price of course). But, undistracted, i continued on (actually i sat on my ass while the captain drove).

Constructed in the 1670s to protect the newly rediscovered trade route (the river connect the Pacific with Lake Nicaragua inland) El Forteleza de la Limpia Pura e Inmaculada Concepcion or El Castillo for short, is bet viewed from the water on arrival. The castle has housed the Spanish, the English, William Walkers Americans, Sandinistas, Contras and anyone else who has played a role in shaping Nicaragua. The castle has great views over the river and town as one might expect for a defensive post. With few tourists in the region, the castle is more often than not all to yourself, after paying the $2 entrance + $2 for cameras that is. There is a decent little museum (all in Spanish) and plenty of staircases and little corners to get lost in. While this is not a behemoth of a building, the view, position and state of repair make-up for the lack of opposing stature.As for the town itself, it's totally cute. I always like getting directions that startwith “Turn left on THE road...” as there is only one. And it's not even a road, more like a glorified sidewalk. There are no cars. No golfcarts. Just the occasional over-zealous kid on a bike. But what got to me was, unlike the rest of Nicaragua, the people here were honestly friendly. Hola and Buenos were throw around like they were going out of style. And it wasn't some clandestine attemp to gain your confidence only to hit you with the old “Actually, i'm a tour guide” line. And while there may not be a Hilton or Radisson or anything, most accommodation choices are clean and dirt cheap. And before you go thinking the place dies at sunset, think again. At the far end of “the road” a few bars are open late-ish to entertain locals and visitors alike. And if lazing in a hammock isn't your thing there are tours to go alligator spotting, tortilla making, canoeing, horseback riding and a few others to pass the time. El Castillo is awesome.

Public boats leave to/from san Carlos a couple times a day, everyday of the week. Travel times vary depending on the number of stops and whether you're going up river or down. It can take anywhere from 2.5 hours to 5 hours. It is still super affordable with prices still in the single digit USD. Getting to San Carlos itself is a wee challenge. Flying is the easiest option. And there are buses from Managua, but the trip is long and VERY bumpy. Most travellers opt for the ferry from Granada, via Isla Ometepe, that goes twice weekly. It isn't the most comfortable overnighter, but gets the job done.

I will, from time to time, describe my severe dislike for a place. More often that not indifference might characterize my experiences. It isn't often is truly like a place. I truly liked El Castillo.