Cartloads of Cartagena

The travelling world tends to throw out the phrase "off the beaten track" in copious amounts these days. The term may mean different things to different people. Colombia can't compare to France or Mexico in terms of tourism numbers. The portrayal of the country is often one of drugs and kidnappings and other things which don't seem to fit well on a tourist brochure. For some, this alone would qualify Colombia as a remote, untouched and adventurous land. But the fact of the matter is Colombia has been drawing tourists in for years. Likely the biggest tourist draw in the country is the port city of Cartagena, with it's steady stream of cruise ships. I guess 1.3 million tourists a year can't all be wrong.

The site of the modern Cartagena can trace it's origins back literally 1,000s of years. The area experienced it's typical rises and falls over the millennia, but it wasn't until the 1,500s that Cartagena began to take the shape we see today. Initial attempt to settle were unsuccessful. The first one, Antigua del Darien, and the second, San Sebastian de Uraba, were unfavourable when compared to other already established ports at nearby islands. But in 1533, Cartagena de Indias finally took hold. Growth was slow, but steady. Until around 1586, when the whole city was captured and a hefty ransom was demanded from the Spanish. After the humiliation, Spain poured what at the time was equivalent to trillions of dollars to sure up the place and in turn to pretty it up a bit.

Blah, blah, blah stuff happened. Governors, viceroys, independence blah, blah, blah. But the end result is a wonderful old walled city which, in 1984, was added to UNESCO's world heritage list. Narrow cobbled stoned streets criss-cross their ways around towering church domes, pastel coloured facades and public squares. Shops explode onto the surrounding sidewalks and impromptu souvenir vendors set-up wherever they can find space. the old city is a functioning place. Although overrun by tourists at times, locals go about buying bread for dinner, paying phone bills and whatever it is that a normal daily grind requires.

Just outside the old city lies the Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas. Built in 1657, it's everything a fort should be with cannons and big draw-bridge type doors. It's open from 8-6 and cost C$15,000. If looking to save some money, you can get the fortified feeling by simply strolling along the old city walls. There are view to the sea and in the distance, the city beaches. The city beaches are less than spectacular, and it's hard to go more than 30 seconds without being hassled from someone wanting to sell sunglasses or seafood or braid you hair or whatever, but it's a beach in a city. If needing a better beach, there are trips to nearby Playa Blanca or Isla del Rosario. There are a few museums around, most of only mild interest. And of course there are more than enough churches to get your fill. Then in the evenings, hop on a party "Chiva Bus" to give you something to confess at the churches the next day.

Cartagena's airport is a almost right in the city centre, but the bus station is about a million miles away. A confusing array of buses and mini-buses and everything in between fight for your patronage. However, those in transport are less than honest and asking if the bus is direct or not will be of little use as they will tell you what they think you want to hear. I grew to strongly dislike bus drivers.

For some, Cartagena is an exotic destination that will require a fair number of Tequila shots before getting up the nerve to book a holiday. For other, it's the biggest tourist trap in the country and only to be visited if transferring buses to lesser known destinations. But irregardless of the degree of which you prefer your track beaten, Cartagena is certainly a highlight of Colombian tourism.