Thursday, September 16, 2010

The Ditch

We just don't build things the way we used to. Back in the day, things were made to last. Things were made with pride. Every once and a while a we manage to build something truly amazing. The Pyramids, the Great Wall and... The Panama Canal? While most may not mention the Panama Canal in the same breath as other world wonders, it has undoubtably had a much greater impact on global economic development than all those other wonders combined.

As early as 1534, explorers toyed with the idea of creating a link between the Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean through Panama. Made sense as it was the narrowest piece of land between the two. But it wasn't until 1855 that engineers finally managed to build a railway, never mind a waterway. Finally in 1880, the French made an attempt to dig a canal through, what was then, the Colombian province of Panama. Times were tough. Poor planning and surveying proved their downfall. They attempted a sea-level canal (without canals), which ended up a bad idea. To top thing off, 10s of thousands died. Largely form diseases like yellow fever and malaria. In 1893, the French gave up.

The Americans figured they could do it so much better (big surprise). They bought the excavations from the French, and started work on a lock based canal system in May, 1904. Learning from the mistakes of the French, the Americans had better engineering, planning, housing and disease control. While worker deaths were high (an estimated 5,609 died between 1904-1914) there were far fewer than during the horrible French campaign. On August 15th, 1914 (2 years ahead of schedule) the Panama Canal was officially opened with the passage of the SS Ancon. No longer did ships have to endure the treacherous Cape Horn trip around the tip of South America to get from the Atlantic to the Pacific. This cut days of shipping routes and frankly saved lives. Food arrived fresher, passengers arrived alive and the entire global economy benefitted from the accomplishment.

The US held control of the Canal and surrounding area until 1977 when the Torrijos-Carter treaty was signed. The goal being to hand over complete control to Panama. Panamanian rejoiced on December 31st 1999, when full control was assumed by the Panama Canal Authority. A referendum was held in 2006. With an 80% majority, plans are to expand the canal at an estimated costs of around $6 billion. Today, roughly 15,000 vessel will take the 9 hours journey through the canal. Costs range anywhere from $0.36 to $331,200 (although the average is about $12,500).

Tourism is also a relatively big contributor to the canal. There are expensive tours allowing visitors to transit the canal. Alternatively, the locks have viewing platforms to see the canal in action. The easiest to reach, and probably the best set up for visitors, are the Miraflores Locks. Open from 9-5 (although there are no boats around midday) access to the viewing decks is $5. There is an decent museum and mini-theatre as well. The full package admission (deck, museum, theatre) is $8. Not to mention a souvenir shop, cafe and restaurant where you can blow a few more dollars.

Getting there is pretty simple. A taxi will cost around $6-$8 one way, or around $20 round trip + waiting time. Alternatively, buses leave from the wonderful Albrook bus terminal. Anything going to Summit Gardens, Paraiso or Gamboa will either bring you directly to Miraflores or drop you off at the turnoff (5-10 minute walk away). Buses cost around $0.50 depending on the quality of bus.

The Canal doesn't exactly qualify as a life changing site. It's actually a little boring and not terribly photogenic. But irregardless of where you are in the world, it affects you. Keeping prices of imported goods low, maintaining security and occupying senior citizens on cruise. What did we ever do before it?

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