Wednesday, September 15, 2010

So Nice They Named it Twice

Central America is a place full of history, culture, beaches and rain-forests. Every year countless millions pour into the region seeking their little piece of paradise. But one things is for darn sure, few (if any) are coming for the regional capitals. And who could blame them?Places like Guatemala City or San Salvador are dirty, "dangerous" urban landscapes with little to offer most tourists. But Panama City, Panama is in a class all it's own. Safe and modern with a number of excellent attractions either in the city or nearby. It's a destination all in itself.
Panama city shines like a beacon to tourists, expats, retirees, regional workers and anyone other groups you can think of. Nearly a century as the transport hub of sea vessels have meant money has been dumped into the city. A coastline of development has nearly as many new skyscrapers as Dubai or Shanghai. A well maintained seaside boulevard almost always has runners and cyclists and nannies walking babies. A sight you would most certainly never see in any other Central American capital. Glimmering new malls abound with locals and expats snatching up every brand name or designer labels you could possibly imagine. Night clubs, or the cooler Chiva buses (night club on wheels) pound into the early mornings any day of the week. Getting in and out of the city couldn't be easier with what is undoubtably the best bus terminal in Central America and one of the best in the world, with intercity and city buses leaving in every direction in a shockingly orderly fashion. Panama City ain't half bad.
But as much as i may like the city, i am typically not an urban kinda guy.What sets this city apart is the outlying suburbs which represents the city's history. Originally founded in 1519, the city has been looted, destroyed, relocated, forgotten and rebuilt several times over. The first site, now known as Panama Viejo, lies to the east of the city. Somewhat underwhelming, the main highlight is a crumbling (and often photographed) tower. For me, and the majority of travellers to the region, it is the location of the area chosen in 1674 for the site of the new capital. Although only a 20 minutes away by taxi nowadays, the site, known as Casco Antiguo, was more easily defended.

Casco Antiguo was a bit of a show piece. Beautiful architecture, above average facilities and wonderful churches all centred around community squares. The city thrived for about 100 years, until falling into general misuse with the loss of important Caribbean links. For nearly a century, the city was allowed to rot, poverty and crime were rampant. By the mid 1800s, when the Panama City was again on the map, the old city was of little use and the newer city, between Casco Antiguo and Panama Viejo was developed. Once the Panama Canal opened in 1914 the new city really took off, leaving the older town to further decay filled with impoverished workers often resorted to squatting in the hollowed out shells of the former glorious buildings.
Casco Antiguo is in the midst of a MASSIVE rejuvenation project. Newly remodelled and brightly painted building lie right next to empty skeletons awaiting their turns. Tourist police are on every other block giving more cautious tourists a little piece of mind. But venture a few block west and the old town true character starts to reveal itself. Funky little cafes where folks like Che Guevara used to hang next to bars where the overly intoxicated stumble out of seemingly lost. A few more blocks west, and you'll be in the real slums where locals kept telling me to turn back as it was not safe. Short conversations in Spanish had them continue to insist i turn back to the "protected" areas. It is this dichotomy of old and new, safe and dangerous, developed and rotting that is truly unique.

Panama City may not rank as my favourite city in the world. It wouldn't even crack the top 10. But if thinking regionally, it is without question, the best capital in the area. Getting there is easy whether by bus, train or plane. There are several interesting thing to do within the city. Islands like Isla Taboga and hilltop villages like El Valle provide escapes from the daily grind. And the canal, the lifeblood of the country is only a stone throws away. Unlike it's Central American brethren, any visit to Panama should include a stop in it's vibrant, interesting capital.

1 comments:

SL Liew said...

Nice pictures especially comparing the zinc roofs with high rises in the background. You certainly do get around. Happy travelling. Cheers from Penang island, SL Liew