Tourin' Ta'izz

Here's a quote from a well known guide book, "...is still large - Yemen's third largest city - but for beauty you need to look a little harder. The city has suffered heavily from unplanned urban growth, which has left it without any real central soul." These are the words used to describe the city of Ta'iz, in western Yemen. But my experience of the place was fundamentally different. After spending the last couple months living in the bland southern city of Aden, i found Ta'iz both soulful and beautiful.

Ta'izz's history, like many cities in Yemen, dates back before there weredates to date them. But, not much is really known about the early days. It wasn't really until the 11th century, when Ta'izz was made capital of Yemen, that anyone took any notice. It's popularity rose and fell over the centuries. It swapped capital city status with San'a a couple times until losing out permanently in 1962. However, where that guide book writer sees an unplanned chaos through the entanglement of roads and alleyways, i see the natural progression of a city which has gone through numerous on-again-off-again love affairs resulting in various growth spurts over a couple millennia. Whereas the author sees no single central soul, i see multiple life springs spread throughout the city

To get a bird's eye view over the sweeping chaos, travellers have one of two excellent options. Looming over the city, on a rock outcropping surrounded by a sea of sky, is the impressive Qalat al-Qahira. Dating back some 700 years, this fairy tale castle has magnificent views as the city's Qat chewers will testify. While the inner castle is off limits, the outer courtyards are more than enough to temporarily satisfy anyone's princess aspirations. But dwarfing even the mighty castle is the even mightier Jabal Sabir. Standing at 3070m, Sabir Mountain is one of the highest peaks in the country, and offers even towering views over everything. Both the castle and the mountain are reachable by taxi which shouldn't cost more than a couple thousand Rials to visit both plus waiting time.

But for me, it was the old city, wedged between the two old gates, that was the highlight. With the labyrinth of streets, alleyways and hidden little "between the building" gaps, a bustling market thrives. This isn't a market for tourists, nor is it a market for cheap plastic Chinese imports. This is an age old market for day-to-day Yemeni life. Everything from abayas to jambiya to mawas plus a myriad of fresh fruits, veggies and special cheese line the narrow passageways. You can watch blacksmiths pound away or weavers spinning with spider-like finesse.

If the nearly overwhelming sites, sounds and smells of the market are too much, then peace can be found at one of a number of lovely old mosques scattered throughout the old town waiting to be found. You can't go in the mosques without an invitation. But if you wander around long enough with puppy dog eyes, someone will adopt you and reveal the hidden treasures within. Of course a tip is greatly appreciated (and not subtlety hinted at)

Ta'izz lies on the new overland route between San'a and Aden. This means nearly countless buses and Peugeots (shared taxis) are coming and going out of the city at any given time. Not to mention the airport. Alas, all terminals for transport is well out of the city centre.

One might never use the words stunning or astounding or amazing when describing Ta'izz, but i quite liked the place. The people were friendly, there's a plethora of accommodation and transport choices and traveller's are able to get a feel of real life, within the "comforts" of a secure and modern city (both terms are relative of course). Being between San'a, Aden and UNESCO listed Zabid, a visit to Ta'izz is more than warranted. By no means should this place be treated as a transport stop. Instead, at least a day should be budgeted to check out what the town has to offer. You won't be disappointed.