News from the Old City

More often than not, capital cities are like a show piece for it's country. History, architecture, culture, nightlife or whatever standard of classification seem to shine brightest in the capitals. Who can think of France without Paris immediately popping to mind? Japan without Tokyo? I think not. Yemen is no exception to this rule. San'a might fall behind some in rocking night spots or glimmering museums, but it more than makes up for it with arguably the best "old city" in the world.

Touted as one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, the

history of San'a dates back to a time before time existed. Some have even said that it was the grandson of Noah (of Ark fame) that was the founder. Kings, viceroys, imams and presidents have all used the city as the seat of power. In a country with a history of invading armies and internal strife, San'a has managed to offer relative peace and security for those who call it home (notice the use of the term "relative peace"). Although the city has never been a major world player, and it's capital to the poorest country on the Arabian peninsula (by far), San'a glows with a emerging new city and a magnificently magnificent Old City.

I've been on the road for some time now. And i have been lucky enough to see a disproportionate number of amazing places. I rarely like to give a

definitive #1 to any place in any sort of travel category. That said, i can comfortably say that the Old City of San'a has skyrocketed to the top couple of my favourite Old Cities in the world. Unlike the old city in Baku Azerbaijan, the streets of old San'a are alive. A busting market fills the streets with the sights, sound and smells of real life, as opposed to the tourist tat found in Tunis, Tunisia. Whereas Khiva Uzbekistan is a remodelled museum city, you would struggle to find anything Disney-fication inside San'as' fortified old town. OK, to be honest, wandering the maze of interconnecting side alleyways, back lanes and streets there is little to uniquely identify the place as San'a. It isn't until you reach a clearing or perhaps a communal garden or best of all a rooftop perch that the true splendour that is San'a is revealed. Known for it's cupcake frosting buildings, San'a looks good enough to eat (that is once you wipe the smile from your face)

But don't let me sugar coat it too much. This is hardly a utopian getaway where the streets are lined with gold, lions lie with lambs and the symphonic version of Ode To Joy plays merrily as you stroll along in a blissful trance. San'a, like every capital in the world, is a victim to mass urbanization. An uncontrollable growing population stresses the city to (and often beyond) it's limits. Many experts have predicted that San'a will be the first capital city with water (possibly within 5 years). The noisy polluting traffic more often than not resembles a parking lot as opposed to streets. Prices are inflated, especially around the tourism industry (whatever remains of it). Hotels are double the price of any others in the country for half of the quality. Day tours are quoted in dollars, not Rials (and it's a lot of dollars). Scammers work the crowds looking for a big score (ie foreigner) And that's not even mentioning the cold winter nights with no indoor heating or insulation. But none of that seems to matter with the wonderfully wonderful cupcake houses :)

There are other points of interest in the city. The newly constructed

al-Saleh Mosque is grand indeed. Dominating the skyline (and Yemen's fiscal record books), it is one of the few mosques non-muslims can enter in the entire country. But one really has to question undertaking such a pricey endeavour in such an impoverished nation. The Qa'a al-Yahud (Jewish quarter) makes for an interesting diversion from the the city centre (just don't expect to see any Jewish people). And of course there are some excellent out of city day trip up into the Haraz Mountains or to the Iman's (rockin') Palace in Wadi D'har. You could "do" San'a in a day. But to really enjoy the place, perhaps more so than anywhere else, you need to spend some time here. While getting lost is fun, knowing exactly where you're going can be strangely empowering. Being a regular at a cafe where you don't even have to order for your coffee to be brought to you is quite soothing. Such is the life in San'a.

While high end hotels like Mercure and Movenpick are in the city, it would be an absolute tragedy to come to San'a and not stay in the Old City. Many old buildings have been tastefully retrofitted and offer a close to authentic stay. Room are rather overpriced, but you have to figure in the cost of the "experience", as the little things like hotel keepers bring heavenly frankincense to your room transport you back to a time forgotten. The Dawood hotel is likely the best of the "budget" hotels in the old city.

Numerous airlines might the flight to San'a. Royal Jordanian and Egypt Air offer decent priced flights. And of course there's the national carrier Yemenia.

San'a may not be a glitzy as other made over old cities. But that's part of it's charm. The old world feel is a lost art in an ever modernizing world. Yet, San'a more than any other place delivers this sense of timelessness in abundance. If you want to visit Disney, then this is not for you. But if hoping for a bit of real life, San'a fits the bill perfectly.