Gettin' wet and dirty in east Socotra

"The answer, my friend, is blowing in the wind." A beach is a beach is a beach... or so it would seem. Socotra, a remote island off the coast of Yemen, is full of beaches. Darn near the entire circumference of the isolated landmass is one long beach. One would think they're all the same. But the extreme weather that plagues the island several months a year has created different beachin' (also pronounced bitchin') experiences on each of the island shores.

Socotra has a prevailing wind for the south-west. Beaches along the shore are long, but with bigger waves and steeper drop-off than other parts

of the island. To the west, unique currents have created the beautiful Detwah Lagoon. That leaves the semi-protected east. With lower wave activity and less bizarre currents, eastern Socotra offers yet a different experience. The most significant difference, of direct interest to travellers, is the excellent snorkelling opportunities available. In particular, the marine reserve of Dihamri offers a whale of a time (sorry for the lame joke). Theoretically protected from fishing (they do serve fish for dinner), the reserve has a rather healthy coral corral with a variety of parrot fish, trumpetfish, butterfly fish and other such Finding Nemo stand ins to delight even the most experience snorkelers. Shockingly good quality gear is available to rent, 1,000YR for a mask and snorkel, 500YR for fins. There is also the only "entrance fee" on the island, with admission costing 500YR.

Driving along the coast, one is amazed by the dazzling blue sea.

It gets to a point that you simply can't tell where the sea ends and the sky begins. But once you reach Arhil Beach, the effect is amplified a million times. Towering sand dunes of near blinding white, act as a intermediary between the looming cliff sides and the mellow sea. Sand boarding seems to have become a popular distraction, although it was unclear if you can rent boards on the island or not. Beyond the dune, the road begins to deteriorate. But even more treasures await.

The 3 km cave system, Hoq, is a little further south of Arhil Beach. Sadly, due to inclement weather, i wasn't able to visit.

The entire east coast is easily do-able as a day trip out of Hadibo. As the road is in excellent condition (at least until Arhil) any car can do the trip. Going rate was 6,000YR for the day. If hoping to go beyond Arhil, a 4x4 might be required (10,000YR)

There are no hotels or restaurants in the area. However, there are a couple of well equipped campsites. Both Dihamri Marine reserve and the village of Roosh offer a tent, mattress and blanket for 1,000 YR/person/night. Food is also available for 1,500 YR for dinner or lunch and 800 YR for breakfast. You can, of course, bring your own food.

While for me the west was best, and the dragon blood trees in the highlands grace act as a symbol for the entire island, with magnificently blue waters, behemoth sand dunes, above average snorkelling and creepy caves Eastern Socotra ain't half bad.