The Heart of Socotra

Socotra is kind of like a sandwich. While you need bread to hold it all together, it's the succulent centre that justifies it's existence. That pretty much describes the tiny island, off the southern coast of Yemen. Every where you look, the coasts are blessed with expansive beaches. Each seemingly more beautiful than the last. But it's not until you head into the centre of the island that Socotra's unmistakable uniqueness is discovered.

Beaches are fine, but there can be little doubt what the star

attractions of this bizarre little island are. With a mind boggling 307 endemic plants, this unique jewel of biodiversity will astound even the most unschooled botanist. Beauties like the dendrosicyos socotranus, the only cucumber plant in the world to go in tree form. Frankincense trees, from which an ancient lucrative incense (one if the gifts for the baby jesus), is found here (although not endemically). But the grand-daddy, the tree used as the poster child of the island, indeed gracing the back of the Yemeni 20 Rial coin, is the Dragon Blood Tree. It's red sap was once mistaken by the ancients to be the blood of dragons it became a highly prized medicine and dye. Although now it is mostly used for paint and varnish. It seems clear that no one has told any of these plants that the dinosaur have died off. Walking through the highlands, it feels like scenery of Jurassic Park is set in the far future.

Without question, the best place to walk among the ancients is around

the highland village of Homhil. Set in a protected area of the same name, Homhil is lousy with trees. The tiny stone village is as simple as they come. The people are super friendly. Although the initial greeting you receive as you try to wander around the village will be to deter you away from possible woman sitings. But Homhil is no one trick pony. Following a wide ravine, travellers suddenly stumble upon a modest little swimming hole. And by modest i mean spectacular. The pool sits on the very edge of a cliffside overlooking the eastern coastline. Absolutely breathtaking!

To get to the pools, even though it's a easy, straight forward stroll, a guide seems mandatory. The going rate is a ridiculous 1,000YR. For those staying overnight, it is highly recommended to have you car meet you at the bottom of the hill, walking down to the coast from the plateau in the morning. The track is not for the faint-hearted nor ill-healthed. Guiding services (again seemingly mandatory) is 2,000YR for the 1 hour walk.

To the west of the Homhil plateau lies the Dixam plateau.

Bisected by the north-south road (not the real name), at least a transit of Dixam is usual part of tourist agendas. Although not as spectacular, there are plenty of the funky trees to amusing the more cautious unwilling to make it up to the more remote Homhil. But in Dixam, it's not actually the plateau that's the highlight. You got to get down, down into the valley which trickling rivers have taken a planet's age to carve out. In particular, Wadi Dirhur, has to be one of the main stops in the area. A series of interconnect freshwater pool glimmer in all their aqua-marine pureness. Miniature waterfalls act as natural water slides as even the most jaded traveller will be temporarily inflicted with Peter Pan Syndrome. The pools make for an excellent cool down session, and are essentially deserted as the road down into the canyon could hardly be called a road at all.

As with the rest of the island (with the exception of Hadibo), there are no hotels or restaurants on either the Dixam or Homhil plateaus. That said, fully equipped camping is available at Homhil. It's 1,000YR/person/night for a tent, blanket and foam mattress. The camp guide can even cook for you. Dinner and lunch go for 1,500YR while breakfast is 800. There are toilet and washing facilities on the site. Wadi Dirhur does not have any camping facilities, however private camping is permitted.

To get up to Homhil or down into the Wadisa 4X4 is absolutely compulsory. You can get a 4X4 with driver in Hadibo for 10,000YR/day. English speaking guides will cost 3,000-4,000YR.

Without question, the centre of Socotra is the heart of the entire island. Cute villages, lovely people, bizarre trees, tranquil pools and awe-inspiring views are somehow commonplace. The beaches are nice, but no visit to Socotra would be complete without a journey to the middle.