Socotra 101

The internet is great. You can find information on anything,anyone and anywhere you so desire. So when i was researching my trip to the Yemeni island of Socotra, i assumed there would be a plethora of useful tid-bits plastered on a multitude of sites. After all, touted the "Galapagos of the Indian Ocean", Socotra is arguably the single greatest attraction for many wanting to visit Yemen. But as i started looking, i was shocked by the lack of anything accept 5 year old pictures of dragon blood trees trees.

Getting there: Firstly, you need to get to the island. There were rumours of a ferry that leaves al-Mukalla. However, when i asked a few locals, they said it hasn't operated for years. I can't absolutely verify this information, it's just what the locals told me. That means you have to fly. Yemen's national carrier, Yemenia, doesn't technically do domestic flights anymore. It's partner, Felix Airways, handles these flights now. There are daily flights to the island, from different cities on the mainland. Any flight to/from San'a will make a pit stop in al-Mukalla (don't get off, you're aren't there yet). There is also 1 weekly flight to Aden. All flight range from $100-$150 depending on your destination. There are no discounts for round-trip tickets, it's just double the one-way fare. It is absolutely VITAL that you go to the Socotra airport a good 2 hours before your flight. Overbookings are incredibly common (happened to me). If this happens, it's a first come first serve basis. The check in desk is after security, so you won't even get a chance to argue your case. You will be rebooked on the next day (no charge), and they will even pay for a hotel (one of the cheap ones).

Staying there: There are basically two options on where to stay on the island. You can either stay in a hotel in the capital Hadibo or at one of the campsites around the island. There are NO hotels outside of the capital, nor are village stays possible. There are 5 hotels that i noticed. 4 of them are budget range, with 1 being upscale. There is a definite dual-tier pricing system, one price for locals and one for foreigners. The budget hotels are 4,000 YR/night for a simple double (3,500 for "locals"). Of the 4, Taj Socotra Hotel is certainly the best (and most popular). The 1 luxury hotel, Summer Land Hotel, is much more expensive. I was quoted prices anywhere from $70-$150.

There are pre-arranged camping sites at a number of places around the island. I noted 5. In the west by Qalansiya, in the east at Dihamri Marine reserve and Roosh, in the south at Nojed and in the mountains at Homhil. Prices and services are the same for all. It's 1,000 YR/person for a tent. The tents are in shockingly good condition. You are also provided with a foam mattress and a blanket (the nights get cold). As for food, it's 1,500 YR for dinner or lunch (usually potatoes, fish, rice and tea) and 800 YR for breakfast (bread, jam, honey, cheese and tea). You can bring your own food, some large groups even bring their own chef. There is also camping in Wadi Dirhur, but there are no services, you must bring everything yourself. Considering the new UNESCO Heritage listing for Socotra, it is highly frowned upon to camp just anywhere.

Getting Around: Reports of transport on Socotra (either in the LP or on-line) are all WAY off. Firstly, there is a basic public transport system on the island. From the airport to Hadibo, a seat in a mini-bus costs 100 YR (took it myself) and a bus to Qalansiya will cost 500 YR. However, buses are very inconsistent and will involve a lot of waiting around. Furthermore, few people in town are willing to help out as they want foreigners to take private cars. The LP says a car & driver for the day is $65, tour agencies charge $75+. But the reality is they are MUCH cheaper. With the roads ever improving, you no longer need 4X4s to get to most parts of the island. From Qalansiya in the west, along the north road, and down past Roosh in the east, the road is in great condition and a simple car does fine. Even heading down south along the western-centre road, does not require a 4x4. You can get a car and driver in Hadibo for 6,000 YR ($30) for the day.

If you're heading to Homhil or one of the inland wadis (river bed) you will need a 4x4 which go for 10,000 YR ($50). Drivers rarely speak a word of English, so be sure to have the itinerary set before leaving Hadibo.

Guides are 3,000 to 4,000 YR/day. They have excellent English and are quite knowledgeable about the flora. At Homhil a guide down the hill is a ridiculous 2,000 YR for the 1 hour walk (or 1,000 YR to the half way pools)

What to see: Each area mentioned here will get it's own expanding blog entry. In the west, Qalansiya is the second biggest town and the Detwah Lagoon is likely the most beautiful beach you will ever see. In the east, Arhil has massive sand dunes blown up the mountain side, Dihamri Marine Reserve has excellent snorkelling. In the south, Nojed is a very long (although very ordinary) beach, Dogub cave and some sand dunes resembling a desert. In the centre, several wadis have nice fresh water pools and Homil has more dragon blood trees than you can shake a stick at.

A few notes: While Yemenis are very sensitive about foreigners taking pictures of women, Socotrans are about 1,000,000 times more so. Even little girls will dive behind any available shrubbery if they spot a camera. As incredibly tempting as it is, this is a MAJOR cultural offence. DON'T EVEN TRY!!!!!

On the beaches, foreign women will wear bikinis. While this is against local tradition, they seem to be used to it.

Food sucks and is overpriced. Do not eat at the Taj Socotra Hotel as is often undercooked as well, not to mention it takes forever for them to bring it to you.

Hitchhiking, although possible, is not a responsible way to promote sustainable tourism. Don't steal from the poor.

Good maps are extremely hard to come by. Even google maps is horrible. The 2007 Lonely Planet (regarding Socotra) is easily the single worst guidebook ever published. It is of no use other than fuel for a fire on cold nights. Place names are wrong, prices are not even close and descriptions are more flowery than useful.

Socotra is absolutely safe. The problems plaguing the mainland are nowhere to be found on the island. There isn't even petty theft. Biggest concern will be an over amorous goat.

You can see a few articles in Yemeni papers at Yemen Times, Yemen Post, Saba Net and Yemen Today.

Overall Impression: Socotra was a bit of an emotional roller-coaster for me. One day, i'd have a terrible experience being overcharged for horrible food simply because i was foreign, then the next day i'd meet the nicest guy who invited me in for lunch. In general, everyone outside of Hadibo is awesome. But those involved in tourism leave something to be desired.

The island is beautiful. Even though i'm not a beach person, even i was left breathless. I had planned 4 nights on the island, which was about right. Being stranded for the 5th night, after the flight was overbooked, was just 1 too many.

The island is magical. Without question it is not only a star attraction in Yemen, but increasingly it is being recognized as a major worldwide treasure. Get here before it changes.