The Socotran South

For some, the Yemeni island of Socotra may seem like the very edge of the existence. There was a time that attempting to visit the southern coast was a bit of overkill. Kind of like arriving at the end of the world, and then jumping off. Roads were bad, if they could even be called roads. But times have changed. Since the airport opened in 2002, and the tourists started coming, the central Yemeni government in San'a has been pouring money into it. Not to mention various NGOs looking for a little spotlight. Now the southern coast is a simple day trip out of the island capital of Hadibo.

Pretty much the entire circumference of the 3,625 km2 island of Socotra is beach. There are some places with longs stretches and some places are more spectacular than others. Nearly the whole length of the southern coast is covered by one continuous stretch of white sandy shores. Fine, white sand carries on to the horizon and beyond. Only occasionally are the pristine beaches rudely interrupted by the odd head land or rocky outcropping. There aren't even any villages to speak of. Small collections of half a dozen houses or so are randomly dispersed, far enough away from each other to remain private, yet close enough not to be isolated. If you get up early enough, you might catch the fishermen heading out to sea for the day. But otherwise, the only life you're likely to see on the kilometres of sandy bliss are a few goats and plenty of crabs. The waters are warm. The waves are generally small (at least in the non-windy season). BUT... unless you're a serious sand-o-phile or a practicing sand-ologist there is absolutely nothing on these beaches. No restaurants and no hotels may sound idyllic for the first several hours, but when left alone with your thoughts, it can be shocking to find out how few thoughts you have. I have never really been a fan of beaches. Never really understood what the attraction was. The beaches along the southern coast are long, clean and deserted. I've heard that's what people look for in a beach. So i guess by that definition, they're nice. But there are nicer and more interesting beaches on the island.

Socotra is riddled with caves. Many of which remain undiscovered and unexplored. In the south, a rather large cavern has implanted itself into the steep cliff sides that mark the edge of the central plateau. Easily seen from the shore, the yawning mouth of the Dogub Cave sit waiting to engulf any passers-by. The inside of the cave is large, but rather unspectacular. There is only one dark and spooky tunnel worthy of horror movie status, but it's small and would require crawling. Locals like the cave, often passing the time chewing qat (a mildly narcotic plant). There are a few goat pens and... well... that's about it.

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To the far east of the south, was one of my favourite parts of the island. At about the end of the road, sand dunes arise as if auditioning for Lawrence of Arabia. In a scene that would be more fitting in the depths of the Sahara desert (been there, done that) that same sand that covers that beach explores it's alternative side. I guess, when travelling, i prefer something a little different. Beaches are beaches. Caves are caves. Purest will undoubtably disagree with lumping these all together. To each their own. But for some reason, i find deserts mystical. While these dunes on the eastern edge of Nojed don't qualify as a desert, the sure do a fine impression of the rolling dunes (and even the odd camel) as fantastically portrayed by every Hollywood movie. This was my favourite part of a rather ordinary (by comparison) southern coast.

Getting to the southern coast now is super easy. There are 2 1/2 roads from the north. The western road is completely paved and in top notch condition. The central road is another story. Due to recent rains, locals drivers seemed unwilling to take this one. The coastal ring road isn't finished yet (in 2 years maybe?). Until that time, it is not possible to follow along the coast. If basing yourself in the capital, Hadibo, the south can be easily done as a day trip. There is no need for a 4x4 (10,ooo YR) meaning you can take any car (6,000 YR)

Staying in the south is limited to camp grounds on the beach. A tent, mattress and blanket will cost 1,000 YR/person/night. There are basic toilet and showering facilities. You're welcome to bring your own food, otherwise the camp site "director" will cook for you. Lunches and dinners cost 1,500 YR (usually fish and rice) and breakfast is 800 YR (bread, cheese and jam).

The island of Socotra is a wonderful place. It seem each location you visit is more spectacular than the last. With some pretty tough competition from other parts of the island, the south is likely the least impressive. That said, 4th place on Socotra would still be #1 almost anywhere else in the world.