Wicked Western Socotra

"Go West young man!" In the early days of North American exploration, this phrase was common. It was like an encouragement for the youth of the day to head to the untamed western wilderness of fabled beauty. In North America, the fables proved true as the west is spectacular. On the remote Yemeni island of Socotra the same phrase rings true. Totally go west!!

The coastline of Socotra is essentially one long beach. The white powdery sand is ideal for strolling and camping and other beach-related-stuff. Crystal clear blue waters invite even the most aquaphobic among us. Then, to top it off, the beaches are essentially deserted leaving the whole place to yourself. Typically i'm the sort of guy who would lump nearly all beaches together. I've never been much of a beach-o-phile. But on the western shores of Socotra there awaits something special, a hidden gem with all of the above criteria. The Detwah Lagoon is easily one of the most spectacular beaches in the world. While i'm not

usually a fan of beaches, i have been to the Caribbean, SE Asia, South Pacific and all other places of beach fame. Detwah, though, is something different. Sure there are no little grass huts strung over the water with hammocks swaying in the breeze. OK, so there are no palm trees leaning over to seemingly drink from the waves. That's all too cliched for me, mere smoke and mirrors distracting from the fact that the actual beach sucks. There's none of that on Detwah. Just beach. I was even there on a stormy day. Blowing wind, crashing waves, darkened sky. And somehow the place still managed to shine. Surrounded by a jagged ring of cliff sides softened by towering sand dunes, Detwah is a definite must see.

The port of call, as it were, for the beach at Detwah is the town of Qalansiya.

The second largest town on the island (after Hadibo) Qalansiya is likely the most tourist friendly village. In many of the smaller communities, you are likely to be met by a man who will very politely suggest you not walk through town in case you see a woman. However, in Qalansiya you are more likely to be invited right in, literally (i had a great Eid lunch there). There are no sites of particular interest. But a stroll through the typical stone houses is lovely and there is plenty of burly fisherman action by the shore.

A popular side trip out of the town of Qalansiya is to take a boat to the beach by the village of Shouab. However, this is not cheap. Reported prices are in access of $65 for the return trip. Due to inclement weather, i was unable to take tis trip and can offer no pricing nor reviews.

Getting to the village is super easy. There are public mini vans that do the run from Hadibo. I was unable to get an accurate schedule other than "several". The cost should be 300 YR for locals, although the island dual pricing system for foreigners likely means 500-700 YR. The road along the north coast is in excellent condition (until the village of Qalansiya itself). As such, a 4x4 is not need to get here. A small car should cost 6,000 YR for a day trip from Hadibo (a 4x4 should cost 10,000).

There are no hotels or restaurants in Qalansiya. There is however a rather well set up camp site near the lagoon. A tent, foam mattress and blanket cost 1,000 YR/person/night. Lunch and dinner (usually fish and rice with tea) cost 1,500 YR.. Breakfast (bread, cheese and jam) goes for 800 YR. You are free to bring your own food if you so desire.

One might think that on an island full of pretty beaches, it would be impossible to pick a favourite. That's just not true. Detwah beach on the western coast of Socotra stands head and shoulders above it's competition. Add to this the cute and welcoming village of Qalansiya and it makes for one of the best day trips on the island. Such easy access does come at a price as this is likely the most visited part of the island. Considering the low tourist numbers in Yemen, even busy beaches are empty. There aren't many places left that can offer you a lost paradise all to yourself. Socotra would be one of those few.