The Old Maltese Capital

Right smack in the middle of the country, perched on its highest point, sit the old capital of Malta. The medieval walled city of Mdina, commonly called "the Silent City", it lies in wait for many-a-tourist to fill its winding alleyways with the noise of clicking cameras and chi-chinging cash registers.

Situated well away from the sea, or as far away as you can in Malta, the conjoined cities of Rabat and Mdina call out to tourists like same ancient stone siren. Mdina, dating back some 1,300 years, is the one time capital of the island. Understandably it has had many face lifts since. Although the majority of buildings are private homes to the 700 inhabitants, the town manages to scrap up a couple of tourist pleasers too. Namely the central cathedral, the conversion of St. Paul (everything on the island is named after Paul). Placed in a large square it is impossible to miss. All the narrow, meandering alleyways seem to make their way there. With a few "palaces" and makeshift museums, there's enough in the walled bastion to occupy an hour or so. And the views over the island are wonderful. But it really isn't the individual attractions that are endearing about the place. But it has a certain "je-ne-sais-pas" that is seriously lacking in the new capital of Valletta. But seeing as the city can only hold so many, it was natural for it's brethren Rabat to serve a role.

Nothing to be sneezed at itself, Rabat does it's best to impress travellers with a cavalcade of its own attractions. Shockingly, it has a church (oh god not another church) named after, you guess it, St Paul. But unlike other parts of the island, Rabat has a couple of catacombs to check out. However, the catacombs of St. Paul is a bit of a misnomer as they're not the place the Saint is buried, but instead where he hung out for a couple of months while shipwrecked on the island. There are also a couple of semi and fully pedestrianized streets that are pretty enough to wander around. I kinda liked relaxing in the bar that is directly opposite the church. But I'm a bit naughty like that!

If bored/overloaded with churches (as one gets in Malta) you could always check out the nearby Dingli Cliffs. While not the most dramatic, they are one of the most accessible by public transport. Although i opted to walk from there into Rabat. It's not to say that I was personally bored with the area, it's all rather pleasant and nice and stuff. However, there are better examples of any of the individual attraction on offer in this area on other parts of the world. And i suppose once you've seen the biggest or the tallest or the whatever-est Malta, including Rabat and Mdina, failed to impress.

The tiny Maltese capital

Size doesn't matter, damn it! I've told myself this so many times I've actually come to believe it. But there are times when my personal delusions prove true. The smallest capital in Europe (if excluding the Vatican) is Valletta, the capital of Malta. With something like 7,000 inhabitants and small enough to walk across in under 10 minutes, the capital is indeed wee. But that just makes everything easier to see with those on serious time restraints.

From the sea, Valletta is wonderfully imposing. Rocketing out of the waves with tower city walls it makes for magnificent photos. The 16th century building are best scene from Silema, Maltas shopping and nightlife centre across the bay. The wonderful cathedrals and such reflecting in the water. But once in the city itself, i found it a little disappointing. There's certainly plenty to see. Being a rather religiously conservative country, the numerous churches scattered around the capital are lovely. However, how many churches does one need to see in one's lifetime. And besides, you need to pay an entrance fee for some of them. There are also numerous little museum and what-have-you, but at several Euros each, they price of the city can really add up. I have often just been content getting lost in these types of places, but even that isn't terribly rewarding in Valletta. The buildings are quite high and tend to block out any sunshine, leaving the narrow streets dark and cold (although a godsend in the summer). But with a nearly anal retentive city planning, the streets typically follow a grid pattern making it nearly impossible to get lost.

It ain't all bad. There are a few lovely things to do for free. There are two quaint parks, the upper and lower Barrakka gardens, which are completely free of charge. Originally built for private use of the knights, now anyone can enjoy the view over to the lovely 3 cities. The Siege Bell war memorial commemorates the victory of the Allied forces
during the Second Siege of Malta from 1940-1943. Although the quirky little sign warning of the 12 o'clock sounding was misleading as no bell could be heard at noon. And it certainly a good place to pick up souvenirs as every other shop seems to specialize in them.

The great news is that getting here couldn't be easier. If the saying goes "all roads lead to Rome" then in Malta it is certainly true that all roads lead to Valletta. The central Valletta terminal is THE place to grab a cheap bus to anywhere on the island. Just be sure to pick up a schedule and route map as the many drivers are not the friendliest. Although i too would get tired of constantly explain the transit system to tourists. Getting to and from the airport is a piece of cake as bus #8 does the route (you need to pay more for your baggage). But the ferry terminal is sadly not connected well. Valletta is not a bad city, on the contrary it's quite cute. But it lack a certain WOW factor i expected. The seaside shot is a pretty one, but frankly, that's about it.

Deep in the heart of Gozo

Any visit to Malta will almost certainly be for the wild coastline or the sprawling beaches. Many of the highlight cities also cling to the edge of where the land meets the sea, like Valetta. But some of the inland cities are worth a visit. In particular, on the island of Gozo has a few sites worth checking out inland.

If in Italy, all roads lead to Rome, then it's most certainly true that on Gozo, all roads lead to Victoria (aka Rabat). it is darn near impossible to visit the island without having to come to the capital. All buses begin and end here (what few buses there are, that is). Luckily, the city is more than transport hub for most tourists. The biggest draw of the city, other than having all the city-type-stuff you need from a city, is the citadel, Il Kastell. Dating back some several hundred years, wandering around the tiny alleyways is wonderfully atmospheric. Furthermore the views from the rear ramparts, are spectacular. Being only a tiny island, you can see the whole thing from the lofty vantage point. While most of the Citadel is free, there are plenty of ways to spend your money. The most obvious is the cathedral. While I've always found it sacrilegious to have to pay to enter a church, many tourists do. On top of the Cathedral, there are a few museums and the old jails. I personal had no need to enter any of them, especially at a couple of Euro each. There is a multi-pass for sale that will allow you into a few of the museums at a discounted rate, but still not my cup of tea. But other than the citadel, and a scattering of other churches in the city, Victoria doesn't have any major draws. a central square makes for a good place to grab a beer and watch the world go by, as i found myself doing much of my visit to the city.

The other city on the island which draws in the tourist is the village of Xaghra. The town itself is cute, a central square, church and a couple of restored windmills. But it's a few stones in a field that are the MAJOR draw. The GGantija temples date back to over 5,000 years ago. Making them older than the pyramids. A one of the oldest freestanding structures in the world. Quite an impressive resume of any sight. BUT... it is, the most overrated, pointless site and certainly not worth the 8 Euro entry fee. The site is small, completely covered in scaffolding and mostly roped off. Unless you're a budding archaeologist, it's not worth seeing.

There are a few other towns on the island, some with large churches or craft shops, but none of outstanding merit. And besides, with a rather poor public transport system, i ended up walking to most places. Buses, to many of the towns end at around midday. In the end, it is the coastline that is the true highlight of Gozo.

Livin' on the edge of Gozo

"Hey babe, take a walk on the wild side". The Maltese islands are blessed with some amazing coastline. Built on a slant, the southern coast of the islands rocket out of the sea in spectacular cliffs. Surely to ward off any attacking Africans. The northern coasts melt away into the Mediterranean providing some nice beaches for white-washed British tourists. The smaller island of Gozo is a good place to explore the coast. Slightly less touristy than Malta, it allows for moments of solitude.
.
As almost a certainty, most travellers first experience of Gozo will be the port city of Mgarr. This is where the ferry from Malta pulls in. A quaint little harbour, with pretty little boats and little hill-top churches, most people never take the time to see it. They simply hop on the awaiting bus to Victoria, the "capital". But seeing as there's a bus every 30 minutes or so. A wee jaunt into the town of Mgarr isn't such a bad idea. The views from the churches are pretty and it's not more than a 10 minute walk (uphill). The bus is number 25 (it's the only bus) which will take you right into the capital. As a matter of fact, ALL buses go to Victoria. Unfortunately, the public transport system isn't the best on the island, as they usually stop going to some of the cities around 12. But considering that you can see that whole island from the Citadel in Victoria, it's easy to walk to anywhere you want to go. My favourite being Xlendi. Built in a narrow wedge splitting the cliffs in a Moses like action, Xlendi is a nice village. A great little resort town to sit and have a beer/lunch, Xlendi is a fairly easy 3 km walk from Victoria (there are buses too). Being there in the winter meant that it wasn't exactly ideal for swimming, but i imagine that in summer it can be quite busy. But the best part of the village lies along the path which lead out of town, along the shore. After crossing a Lord-of-the-Rings type bridge and scale the side of a hill, the intrepid traveller is awarded with magnificent views of crashing waves and towering cliffs. When i was there there wasn't any sole around. But even more interesting, just below the old fort tower are several "salt farming" holes and bizarre rock formations, making for some spectacular photos (title picture).

Likely the most hyped place to visit in Gozo is the Azure Window on the west coast. Bus loads of tourists show up for a few minutes to take a photo of a hole in the rocks, just to get back on their bus to some other place. But the "village" of Dwejra Bay warrants more time than that. There are little boat rides (Euro 3.50) which take you through a hidden little tunnel out to the sea. For about 15 minutes you pass in and out of natural caves. Perhaps not a spectacular life changing event, but if you say "Arrrrr, matey" enough times, you can feel like a pirate. I actually quite like the rock formations around the Azure window a fair bit. A rather lunar like appearance (except or all the water, oxygen and tourists) it makes for some really pretty photos. And not to be missed is the nearby tower. Mario the tower keeper, and avid CouchSurfing host, is a wealth of knowledge. It's free, although tips are gratefully accepted. Getting here can be a pain, especially in the winter. Buses don't go all the way down to the sea. You need to get off at San Lawrenz and walk the 1.5 kms to the shore. It a fully exposed walk and would suck in the summer, most certainly on the trek back uphill. But try hitchhiking.
.

There are a few other beaches and resorts scattered around the island. All within sight of the central capital. It's definitely a beautiful area to explore and well worth the trip out of Malta.

Tunis is better than 1

Sometimes I still get surprised by places. After several previous forays into Northern Africa I thought i was well experienced to know what to expect long before my arrival for yet another trip. A dusty, dirty city with a rapidly crumbling imperialist infrastructure and an overly touristic historical centre were the norm in other parts of the region. But the Tunisian capital of Tunis wasn't quite like that. Sure it had elements of the decay mentioned, but it wasn't the defining factor of the city.

Tourist life in Tunis generally centres around the main street of Habib Bourguiba. Starting at the Place de 7 Novembre with it's landmark clock tower and ending up in the historic Medina. Cafes flood the sidewalks in this Ville Nouvelle (new city) as tourists and trendy locals walk and talk along this tree lined street. Surprisingly clean, it didn't really fit the mold as other capitals like Cairo or Rabat (although they are much bigger)There are a couple of interesting buildings like the theatre and cathedral. And the Jamaica Bar on top of the Hotel El Hana shouldn't be missed for it's views (even if you don't drink there). Local life is a few block north around the Republic "metro" stop. But there is little reason to visit here, unless you're looking for cheap food.
But it is the Medina that is the true heart of the city. For more years than i can count on my fingers and toes, the medina has been the centre of commerce and interaction. Growing out of the sides of the grand mosque, the Tunis medina is the way medinas are supposed to be. The clickity-clack of artisans hard at work, the sights and smells and the hard fought deals leaving neither patron nor customer content is intoxicating. The place is alive. Sure the main street from the Port de France to the Grand Mosque is incredibly touristic, but taking any other street shows the real face of the medina. And venturing a little north or south will have you essentially by yourself wandering through a blind man's city plan of meandering streets. Countless little make-shift cafes are around every corner. This is not just a place for tourists. In fact, once off the main street, you'll see FAR more locals than out-of-towners. Just west of the grand Mosque are several shops offering "panoramic" views. GO THERE!! It really is free to look, although you might have to listen to a sales pitch. One of the first shops was a palace of some sort or another and not only offers up great views (actually the medina is too tightly packed to be picturesque) but the tile work on the roof is amazing. If hoping to buy anything, get off the main street and bargain HARD. Dumb tourists tend to pay whatever the shopkeeper says. Which is usually 3 or 4 times the price.

The Bardo Museum is apparently worth the trip, but i didn't bother. There are a couple of great, and easy, day trips to do out of the capital too. 2 of them are on the same train line which can be found about 300m east of the clock tower. My favourite was Sidi Bou Said (i was there in the slow season which i assume makes a difference). The other, which i didn't like, was to the ruins of the ancient city of Carthage. If arriving to Tunis by plane, the metered taxi fare is only around 5TD. But they will very rarely go by the meter, quoting prices 10 times that. 10TD is a good price, 15TD is ok, don't pay 20. The train is well located. Just off the main street in the centre. I arrived by ferry. The nearest station is about a 15 minute walk from the ferry terminal. It's pretty simple, follow the road always choosing the left curve. Eventually you'll find the tracks behind a petrol station, the station is only a few meters along the tracks.


Tunis ain't half bad. That being said is was there in the off season. I can't imagine it during the busy season. It's a great base for day trips and the inevitable gateway into the country. Definitely worth a few days.

Sousse - Substance over style

When travelling, it's all nice and fine to go to some pretty place or awesome beach or ancient monument. But there are times you just need a city, not a capital, just a city. Perhaps a visit to a travel agent. Maybe a place to fix your broken shoes. And if that city has some touristy things up for offer, all the better. Tunisias' second largest city of Sousse is kinda like that. A fully functional city representing normal daily life of Tunisians, but also with it's touristy side. As with most cities in the region, Sousse centres around the old Medina (shopping district). These are typically walled off mini-cities, surrounding a central mosque. Sousse is a bit of an exception to this general layout. The mosque is not in the middle of the Medina, but at the front. And the other interesting thing about it is it doesn't have a minaret. Next to the mosque is a well preserved Ribat. It's a fort/religious school used by Muslims several hundred years ago. The one in Sousse is nice, but the one in nearby Monastir is better. Once past these two buildings, the Medina is a typical example of others you might see in Tunisia. For the first couple hundred metres, the shops are filled with gaudy tourist tat with shop keepers ready to pounce at the slight smell of interest. But once past the initial onslaught, the alleyway mellow out. And taking any side street reveals the living area with is without any hassle at all.

But the thing about Sousse is it's much more than a couple old building and a Medina. This is a city. Not a glitzed up like the capital Tunis. Not let to complete decay like Gabes. But a working 9 to 5, commuting on the bus, shopping in the evening city. A place where people wear the latest fashions and traditional clothing. Street side cafes pour into the sidewalks as they fill with locals and tourists. And don't get me wrong, there are tourist. PLENTY of them. Sousse is developing in to the largest tourist resort in the area. And with other nearby resorts at Monastir and Port El Kantaoui in the city on day trips, it can at times feel like there are more tourist than locals. But it's the element of being in a city, not a resort, that somehow absorbs the flood of pale legs.

But besides being a place with a few attractions to pass the time and a ok beach, Sousse is a great city to base yourself for day trip to many points of interest nearby. An hour west is the holy city of Kairouan. 45 minutes east is sea side resort of Monastir. An hour south is the colosseum at El Jem. And not too far down the coast is the more laid-back resort of Mehdia. Not to mention easy bus, train or louage connections to Tunis, Gabes or pretty much anywhere else in the country. All this makes Sousse a pretty good place to fully occupy yourself for about a week.

Forgotten villages

In the hills, just north of the desert, tip-toeing along the Algerian border, lie 3 forgotten oasis villages. Once bustling little centres, unprecedented rain in 1969 caused the locals to abandoned their homes for newer (blander) settlements. Nowadays, these three towns are being rediscovered. With beautiful natural scenery and a sense of being off the beaten track a bit, the villages of Chebika, Mides and Tamerza are seeing an influx of tourism. The later village I used as my base for exploring the area.

The 1 hour-ish drive up from Tozeur, in southern Tunisia, starts off pretty ordinary. The flat desert is enough to put anyone to sleep. But, eventually, the landscape transforms dramatically. Jagged hills begin to protrude from the featureless desert and the louages (shared taxis) do their best to make it up the steep, switch backed hill. First is the town of Chebika. Although it's barely worth the 30 second stop to drop of people from the taxi. But next is the largest of the three towns, Tamerza. The town, itself, is a non-decrypt collection of semi-modern house. Essentially just the one main street, it's hardly the jewel in the crown of Tunisian architecture. But it serves it's purpose as a base with the only real accommodation or restaurants in the area.
But instead of the new Tamerza, it is the "ancient" town that has all the WOW factor (title photo). Magnificently set with a backdrop of mountains and the palmeraie, it is easily one of the most picturesque sites in the country. The small walled village may not be worthy of a world heritage listing or anything, but it's interesting to wander around. While there may be a small influx of tourists in the early afternoon, in general, i had the site all to myself. Upon first arrival, i was a little bitter to see tonnes on little white bags scattered about the site. But it's was later in the evening that I really came to love those little white bags. It seems that some big (rich) tour group had paid to have the entire village lit by a thousand little candles. They didn't even come down from their INCREDIBLY expensive hotel to see it up close. it ended up to be a super cool (super lucky) experience with the endless stars competing for attention with the tea candles.

Each of the three oasis villages have similar old towns. Although i liked Tamerzas' the best. There is a popular hike, through a canyon, to see the one at Mides. In the area there are small water falls. A guide is HIGHLY recommended as the route can be a little tough to find yourself. You can find guides at the Syndicate (like tourist information) on the main street of Tamerza. It should cost around 20 TD for the trip to Mides and back. A couple of hours. There's enough outdoorsy stuff to occupy enthusiasts for a couple of days. Although the nights are a little boring (meaning dead as!!)
.
Two things of note, the LP is totally misinformed about this particular region. Firstly, there is a third hotel, mentioned in the Rough Guide and Routards but not LP. It the "Residence de Oasis" which at 30TD a night is by far the best option for budget travellers. The Hotel de Cascade is virtually uninhabitable in the winter. Also transport is all wrong in the guides. Any transport from Tozeur, must pass through Chibika first, thus meaning it too is service by public transport. Louages do head up the hill, but few and usually only in the morning.
.
These Oasis villages certainly are a getaway from the everyday. They are both quieter and slower than the busier nearby cities. Cleaner air, less hassle and far more laid back, it's a holiday from your holiday in the rest of Tunisia.

Takin' in Tozeur

To every Ying there is a Yang. That is to say for all white, there is black. For up there is down. All creating a universal harmonious balance. While Tunisia has nothing to do with this Taoist philosophy, it does have a prime example of it. In southern Tunisia there one city in particular where many tourists base themselves out of. As one might expect, it has all the problems of mass tourism. But i firmly believe that the benefits, at the very least, balance out these negative side effects.

I knew, going into the city of Tozeur, that the place was the main hub of tourists in southern Tunisia. I knew that there were no cool medinas to wander around. And i thought i knew that the 4X4 day trips were overpriced. Well, yes there were tourists, but unlike Matmata or Douz, Tozeur was big enough to conceal the tourists to the point that i hardly noticed them. There might not be a medina, but there is a kick-ass old quarter with some beautiful architecture. Except for a small part at the beginning, it lies virtually traditional from centuries past. Even with fairly aggressive Calesh drivers and would-be guides, you'll echo a simple "Bonjour" to most of the people you pass on the street.
Without question, for me the highlight of Tozeur is it's awesome old quarter (Ouled El-Hadef). Originally built in the 14th century for a rather wealthy clan, it's wonderful brickwork, with protruding geometric designs, are absolutely lovely. The labyrinth of alleyways, with hidden little square and mosques are highlighted by the intricate doors. Many with Berber designs. Some with 3 door knockers (man and woman) some with 3 (if they have children). I wandered around for literally 2 hours and only saw one other tourist. But, as part of the whole Ying/Yang thing, there will almost certainly be a few locals who will walk up to you starting a conversation "Where are you from? Oh! I have family member X living in city Z of your country". They will be quick to point out some little thing then say "You should see something" Of course this now becomes a "tour" and a tip will be expected. A kind "thank-you, I'm just taking photos" is more than enough to send them on their way. Although a tour is not such a bad idea.

It seems every city in the area has a palmeraie, but i liked Tozeurs' the best. As opposed to the one in Douz, the one in Tozeur winds it's way to and fro through the shadow of the palms. With a few little villages tucked inside (none particularly great) it offers more than most Palm groves. One of it's hidden treasures is the Chak Wak Park, an overpriced, over-zealous attempt at an amusement park/museum/who-knows-what. But that park is not the only example of oddities in the city. The Belvedere Rocks (title picture) are like some weird homage to Mt. Rushmore. BTW the rocks are not where described in the LP. The are instead straight along a newly paved road (not the sandy track). If that wasn't enough, the Disney-fied Dar Charait Museum is a reconstruction of a ancient palace. Although a little overpriced, the displays aren't half bad, and it's open crazy late (till midnight)

But if all this wasn't enough... if you still needed more... there are several excellent day trips out of the city. Visiting sand dunes near Ong Jemel or Douz, checking out mountain oasis villages like Tamerza, taking a scenic train the Red Lizard (only May to September) or even further destinations like Ksar Ghilane or Matmata are possible out of Tozeur. If you're lucky enough to have even MORE time on your hands, some nearby villages like Nefta and Gafsa are do-able in a day. Although neither village is particularly worth the effort. You can't get bored in Tozeur.


With a wide range of hotels and restaurant, with numerous tours and activities and with plenty in the city itself, Tozeur is (in my opinion) the best city in Tunisia. Even with it's mildly aggressive touts and shop keepers. Even with it's bizarre waste of money in it's odd attractions. Tozeur is well connected with the rest of the country. Cheap-ish flights to Tunis, overnight trains and buses and a plethora of louages (shared taxis) to take you anywhere you may need to go. While hard-core travellers may scoff with some remark like "Oh it's too touristy for me" I'd reply with "Bah-humbug" (sorry for the rough language). Most certainly, Tozeur and it's surroundings are one of the highlights of Tunisia.

Sometimes you gotta do the tour

As an independent, budget traveller i have more often than not shied away from tours and travelled via public transport. Although more of a challenge, i believe in the old adage "getting there is half the fun". And there's something about loading up in a car, driving someplace, being permitted 6 1/2 minutes to take photos, just to be carted off to the next place that doesn't tweak my fancy. But Tunisia is different. The country is blessed with vast, rugged terrain that begs for 4X4 touring. Seeing how many of the most interesting sites are completely inaccessible by any form of public transport, what choice did i have? So, while in the southern city of Tozeur, i opted for one of the more popular getaways.

The most interesting tour for me, which i couldn't do on my own, was the one that heads out into the desert north and west of Tozeur. The 4x4 soon turns off road (as any good 4X4 should) and you're whizzed off to one of the salt lakes in the area (Chott El Gharsa). Personally, I don't find salt lakes that interesting. They don't really do very much. Nearby is the uber-hyped Ong Jemel (camels neck). It's an outcropping of a hill which looks, oddly enough, like a camels neck. But it's after that the tour gets fun. The drivers (notice i said drivers with an "s") maneuver their vehicles (notice vehicles with an "s") up, down and around large sand dunes to the squealing of the tourist holding on for dear life inside. OK, it's not really life or death, but it was fun. Unfortunately, for some stupid reason, i wasn't allowed to drive :(
Sadly, here is where I admit my nerdiness. After playing in the dunes for a while, the tour heads for the REAL highlight of the day. In the middle of freakin' nowhere are some of the sets used in the "English Patient" (boring) and "Star Wars" (awesome!). Tourists are allowed to wander around and clamber up on any of the sets pretending to be Jedi or what-have-you. With the locals walking around wearing traditional Cashabiya, it's easy to see where George Lucas got his inspiration for the Jedi attire. As a matter of fact, you can see elements of Tunisia throughout Star Wars. Chewbacca sounds like a camel. Luke Skywalker lived in an underground Berber home in Matmata. Even the name of Lukes' home, Tataouine, is a city in Tunisia. After the dorky fun at the sets, the tour head to what is says is Nefta, a village nearby, but turns out just to be a look-out over Nefta. A the tour finishes with a brief stop near the border with Algeria where you watch the sun set in the neighbouring country (while still in Tunisia)

Not a bad day, but here's the thing. You will NOT be the only one out there. If you're lucky, in the low season you may only have half a dozen other 4X4 on the same route, stopping at the same places at the same time. So, of course, with that many tourists in one place with no place to run, camel drivers and trinket sellers and the like come out in force to vie for your patronage. And they don't give up easily. As i sat watching the sunset, hoping for peace, all i heard was "1 dinar, not expensive, monsieur?". There's no escaping them. Being polite didn't help either. But i knew what to expect. I guess being forewarned is being forearmed.

Every hotel, tour agency and guy on the corner can arrange this tour, or others like them. While the Lonely Planet quoted 45 TD for the one I did, i only ever saw it advertised (very openly) for 30 TD. Which i honestly believe is worth it. Are these excursions touristy? ABSOLUTELY! But that shouldn't keep you away from going on at least one during your time in Tunisia. It's the only way to see some of the country's not-so-hidden treasures.