When on holiday, one of the last things you'd ever think you'd hear yourself saying is "Man! I need to get out of the city!!" The regional capital of Oaxaca, Mexico is certainly full of charm. But, in my opinion, it is the surrounding country-side that should be recognized as the true lure of the area. With 16 different ethnic groups in the region, Oaxaca is a treasure trove for
any budding anthropologist. This coupled with the magnificent history of the province, there is plenty to see outside of the city. Each highlight is reachable by cheap public transport, but this method tends to be time consuming, and not that much cheaper than joining one of the tours on offer. So getting up earlier than I usually care to while on holiday, I hopped into a mini-van with a bunch of tourists from the Mexico City area. The tour guide offered to do it in English, as well as Spanish, but I figured I'd be fine. The first stop was a mere 9km out of Oaxaca in the village of Santa Maria del Tule. A fairly unremarkable village except for one bit of remarkable flora. The aptly named Arbol del Tule (tree of Tule) holds the record for the "Stoutest" tree in the world. Not the tallest. Nor the oldest. Just the fattest. With a circumference of 36.2 m and a diameter of 11.62m, it would certainly need to shop in the "Plus sized" section of the jeans shop. But it is just a tree, after all. Frankly not the greatest show on Earth. After a few photos, it was time to head off.
any budding anthropologist. This coupled with the magnificent history of the province, there is plenty to see outside of the city. Each highlight is reachable by cheap public transport, but this method tends to be time consuming, and not that much cheaper than joining one of the tours on offer. So getting up earlier than I usually care to while on holiday, I hopped into a mini-van with a bunch of tourists from the Mexico City area. The tour guide offered to do it in English, as well as Spanish, but I figured I'd be fine. The first stop was a mere 9km out of Oaxaca in the village of Santa Maria del Tule. A fairly unremarkable village except for one bit of remarkable flora. The aptly named Arbol del Tule (tree of Tule) holds the record for the "Stoutest" tree in the world. Not the tallest. Nor the oldest. Just the fattest. With a circumference of 36.2 m and a diameter of 11.62m, it would certainly need to shop in the "Plus sized" section of the jeans shop. But it is just a tree, after all. Frankly not the greatest show on Earth. After a few photos, it was time to head off.
The next stop was a village rich in Zapotec culture. The Zapotecs are one
of the larger ethnic groups in the area, and the village of Teotitlan is famous for it's traditional arts and crafts. More specifically, it is known for it's textiles (called Laadi in the local language). The main economic activity in the region dates back some 2,500 years, although most of the carpets are slightly younger than that. All materials, from the wool to the dyes to equipment used are all natural. The process itself isn't really unique. I've seen it in countless other countries around the world. But the somewhat diminutive artists are hospitable and friendly. Keeping up with modern times, many of the families now offer homestays where guests can take part in courses in weaving or cooking. Prices will vary, as everything, depending on your bargaining abilities. The family I spoke to had excellent, though simple facilities. And a view to die for. Contact Raul at gasper_chavez@hotmail.com if interested. From old traditions to old cities, the next place on the cavalcade
of hits was the ancient town on Mitla (title photo). Dating back some 2,500 years, it is the second most important archaeological site in the state (after Monte Alban). Whereas Monte Alban was the political centre 2,000 years ago, Mitla was the religious centre. The site is less than overwhelming, although there are a few tunnels and such to clamber through giving a real Indiana Jones type feeling. One of the greatest differences between sites like Teotihuacan and Chitzen Itza is that Mitla was still inhabited at the time when Europeans first came. As such, numerous old churches are built on some of the ancient "temples" as an attempt to convert the locals to Catholicism. The city is still a bustling little place. I guess it worked. The archaeological site is an additional 37 pesos on top of the tour price.
of hits was the ancient town on Mitla (title photo). Dating back some 2,500 years, it is the second most important archaeological site in the state (after Monte Alban). Whereas Monte Alban was the political centre 2,000 years ago, Mitla was the religious centre. The site is less than overwhelming, although there are a few tunnels and such to clamber through giving a real Indiana Jones type feeling. One of the greatest differences between sites like Teotihuacan and Chitzen Itza is that Mitla was still inhabited at the time when Europeans first came. As such, numerous old churches are built on some of the ancient "temples" as an attempt to convert the locals to Catholicism. The city is still a bustling little place. I guess it worked. The archaeological site is an additional 37 pesos on top of the tour price. After a slightly expensive, although good lunch, a food coma set it. With
concentration lost i had no idea what the guide was talking about. But luckily words weren't need for the next, and best, site. Actually, Hierve el Agua was so cool, it deserves it's own blog entry. After a fair bit of time to check out the petrified waterfalls and natural mineral pools, it was back into the min-van. Even with the pretty scenery passing by the window, everyone passed out. Only to be awoken at a Mezcal distillery. While everyone has heard of Tequila, Mezcal is the original indigenous drink. Tequila is simply a place where a milder derivative is mass produced for commercial purposes. Mezcal is almost exclusively made in small little shops and in a very traditional manner. If having a food coma, compounded by the heat and sun, weren't enough, a few tester shots of Mezcal was more than enough to cap off the day.
concentration lost i had no idea what the guide was talking about. But luckily words weren't need for the next, and best, site. Actually, Hierve el Agua was so cool, it deserves it's own blog entry. After a fair bit of time to check out the petrified waterfalls and natural mineral pools, it was back into the min-van. Even with the pretty scenery passing by the window, everyone passed out. Only to be awoken at a Mezcal distillery. While everyone has heard of Tequila, Mezcal is the original indigenous drink. Tequila is simply a place where a milder derivative is mass produced for commercial purposes. Mezcal is almost exclusively made in small little shops and in a very traditional manner. If having a food coma, compounded by the heat and sun, weren't enough, a few tester shots of Mezcal was more than enough to cap off the day. Several agencies in Oaxaca offer the same tour. There is very little difference between them. The typical price is 200 Pesos. Keeping in mind and addition 5 Pesos is requested at the Arbol del Tule, 37 Pesos at Mitla and 40 Pesos at Hieve el Agua. Plus the 130 Pesos for the buffet lunch. It's not a cheap day, but worth it. With a mix of culture, history and nature, there's something for everyone.
You can check out a video of the day on my other blog, Been There, Filmed That.
magnificent cliffside setting. The expansive panoramic of the area, looking over an immense valley, might be reason enough to visit the area. However, the scenery is but a mere perk of a visit to the site. It is instead the steady flow of a natural spring of mineral water that brings locals and tourists alike here. With supposed healing qualities, the collective pools truly make for one of the most unique bathing opportunities in the world. If that weren't enough, the natural wonder doesn't stop there. After a millennia of drips and drops, soaking and evaporation a variety of minerals have been deposited on the cliff side giving the appearance of stone waterfalls. I have seen similar formations in Pamukkale, Turkey. And while the Turkish site is larger overall, the pools and "falls" in Hierve El Agua are infinitely more dramatic.
the main city of Oaxaca, i failed to find them (although i didn't really look very hard). The only viable public transport option is from the village of Mitla, some 17kms away. Even then, the pick-up trucks posing as buses are infrequent except on the weekends. Alternatively, getting any long distance bus heading to San Christobal or Guatemala could drop you off on the turn off, but it's a very exposed 7km walk to the site from the highway. The best choice is to join a tour. There are ones that only go to the springs, or others that take in some of the other sites in the area (costing around 200 pesos form the 9 hour tour) like Mitla, Tule and Teotitlan. Regardless of how you get there, 2 payments of 20 pesos each, are required to use the access road and the pools. The double payment is meant to appease the 2 indigenous groups "fighting" over the region.
was arguable the most developed in Mexico, at least for their time. At the very least, it had some wonderful views over the valleys below. Some studies have suggested that a series of etchings carved into the stones were Mexico's first system of writing and attempts at a calendar. The highly developed, priest oriented society peaked around 300 to 700 A.D. The site is thought to have reached a population of 25,000. Quite substantial for it's time. But history has taught us that civilizations come and civilizations go. Monte Alban was no different, basically crumbling away from 800 A.D.
compare. It certainly lacks the wow factor of the massive pyramids at 
Sadly, I have to admit I'm am clearly a product of mass advertising. Countless Saturday mornings spent propped in front of the television have left me "CooCoo for CoCoPuffs", wondering "Where's the Beef?" and feeling sorry for poor Mikey as "He'll eat anything". And somehow, the image of a perfect vacation must involve walking hand-in-hand on some tropical beach. But life has taught me a few things. There is no nutritional value in CocoPuffs, fast food restaurants are cutting down the rainforest to supply the beef and poor Mikey is now an overweight ad exec. But above all I have come to learn that I hate beaches. 
causes the sand to stick in places you'll be digging it out for weeks. With a few exceptions, they are void of any architectural or cultural relevance. Food is generally limited to seafood. Touts constantly bother you to go on Tour X or eat at Restaurant Y. Holidays always leave them very overcrowded. And everything is WAY overpriced. Yet for some reason beyond my comprehension, I keep going back to them. As a matter of fact, in my most recent 6 month holiday, I've been to not less than 7 I remember (
beach can get busy around the holidays (i was there during Semana Santa) but even then there are still places to get away. Most of the night clubs, cafes and hotels are located along one of two streets which run parallel to the ocean. Meaning you never really have to go far to go where ever it is you need to go. And the surf is good enough that the X-games (the Olympics for the daring) have been hosted there on more than one occasion. If sun and surf is your thing, the Puerto Escondido might just fit the bill.
After all, I was only there for a few days visiting old friends. I didn't even do any touristic type activities. And Mexico most certainly has all the diversions one might come to expect for such a Megalopolis. With the exception of Paris, Mexico City has more museums than any other place. And churches? It's damn near impossible to throw a stone without hitting one, including the largest cathedral on the continent. Although they apparently don't like it if you actually throw stones at the churches. As a matter of fact, the entire Old City centre is listed under 
several times before. It is fairly safe to say that this visit wasn't nearly as awe inspiring as it was in my teens. Back then, the city's population nearly matched that of the entire country of Canada. It was frankly too much for my untravelled mind to comprehend. Since then, I've worked in Istanbul, I've lived near Tokyo (the biggest city in the world) and visited places like Delhi. But, while the city couldn't manage to muster the same bewilderment of my youth, it's still an impressive city. I was shocked at how much cleaner it was. I never remembered seeing "blue" sky in Mexico. It was always a shade somewhere between grey and brown. And the city has civilized tremendously. People queue for buying subway tickets. They generally use crosswalks (although maybe more out of fear than civility). Mexico City, like me it seems, has grown and matured (OK maybe i haven't matured that much, damn Peter Pan Syndrome!)