Got change?

Bigger, better, faster. The only thing truly consistent in human history is change. The desire to develop, thriving to improve, at times seems like our only motivation. Nowhere in our modern world is this yearning better exemplified than in Dubai. This tiny desert port has sprung to the forefront of extravagant engineering projects and economic expansion. While some may question the cultural value or environmental impact of these profligate undertakings, Dubai epitomizes the word "change".

A mere 20 years ago, no one had every heard of Dubai. But now it's tough to watch an episode of Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous (is it still on?) without the city being mentioned. The recently completed Burj Khalifa has broken damn near every record, tallest this or fastest that. Standing higher than any other man made creation in history, it is a shining beacon of prodigality. Of course, i had to pay my 100 AED for the honour of scaling the beast. But the Emiratis aren't content with building up, they also have endeavoured to build where there isn't even any land. Massive projects like The Palm Islands and The World have moved nearly incalculable amount of earth to create artificial islands for no reason other than, "we want to". It was only 11 years ago that the Burj Al Arab was introduced to the world. Heralded as the world's only 6-star hotel, this place is the definition of opulence. Whereas most high end hotels will have car service in the form of limos, Burj al Arab one ups them with Rolls Royces. The cheapest way of just getting into the place involves a deposit on a reservation at one of the restaurants. There is riff-raff, street traffic allowed. And the list goes on and on. Colossal mega-malls with every brand name imaginable, an indoor ski hill in the middle of the desert, an aquarium with the world's largest acrylic panel, Dubai is the place where cutting edge/insane (it's a fine line) designers and engineers go to play.

But it's not all glitz and glamour. Dubai still manages to sneak in the

occasional sense of history and culture. Cutting Dubai almost in half is the Dubai Creek. And without question, the best way to see the city is by taking one of the little Abras (ferries) which cross this creek in a seemingly endless stream of chugging and bumping. The whole chaotic scene somehow working remarkably efficiently. While you will never see an Emirati taking one of these (they're all Indian or Paistani or tourists) the ride is cheap as heck, 1AED, and they provide an interesting polar view of the city. On one hand the luxurious buildings and the Emirati that live there and on the other, the "lower" class that actually built the place. But if you're not a mixing-with-the-locals kinda person, you can hire out the entire boat. Alternatively, there are a number of dinner cruise boats starting at around 100AED plus food.

But i guess it's the shopping that many come for. Prices are among the lowest in the region. And all brand names (or their knock offs) are available. While the malls are super modern and air conditioned and what-have-you, it's the souks (markets) that are way more fun. Now these aren't your stereo-typical Indian Jones type markets. There are no donkeys or monkeys or guys with big swords trying to kill you, and you will struggle to see any Emiratis here. On the Bur Dubai side of the creek, part of the Old Town, called Bastakiya, has a market which is about as traditional as you're going to get. The old town itself has been unbelievably Disney-fied and it's hardly worth it. But the covered market area is lively. On the Deira side, the streets are divided into different areas. The electronic souk, textiles souk and so on. The gold souk is probably the only one worth checking out as, for the most part, they others are just shops on a street.

Emirates airways is a great way to get to Dubai. The airline is top notch and the terminal is wonderful. A number of other budget airlines handle the region including FlyDubai and JazeeraAirways. Getting around the city (and to and from the aiport) has been made much easier since the opening of the Dubai Metro. But even taxis are reasonably priced and they're metered which makes life so much easier.

I'm not entirely sure I'd fly half way around the world exclusively to visit Dubai. It is a cool city with site and activities to suit most travellers. But most definitely if anywhere in the extended region, a multi-day layover in Dubai should somehow find it's way into your itinerary.

Sky High in Dubai

For years i scoffed at the notion that testaments to skyscrapers like the Petronas Towers or Taipei 101 were the tallest buildings in the world. Standing at 553 metres since 1976, the CN Tower in Toronto, Canada has long been the tallest structure. Perhaps it's a matter of semantics. But on January 4th 2010, all that changed as the Burj Khalifa in Dubai opened to the public.

Towering a massive 828 meters above the ground, the B.K. shattered all existing records. This masterpiece of modern engineering put to rest any squabbles of who might be the tallest. With 160+ floors, 49 office floors, 1044 residential apartments, 57 elevators (@ 64 km/hr), 28,261 panes of glass taking 22,000,000 man hours at a cost of over $1,500,000,000, the Burj Khalifa is nothing short of a vertical city. Costs to visit/live in the tower are set to pay for the mortage i guess. Residential properties go for around $3,500/ft2 and commercial space at over $4,000/ft2. As for the public, the only access is via the At The Top observation deck on the dizzying 124th floor. But you'll need to shell out 100 AED ($30) for the privilege of visiting the part indoor part outdoor deck.

For those on a limited visit to Dubai, it is highly advisable to pre-book a tower time via the Burj's website. There are departures every 30 minutes. Sunset times will sell out days, if not weeks, in advance. Once up the tower, there is no limit as to how long you can stay up there. I love the slits in the glass for clear pictures of the surrounding city and desert. Getting to the tower is fairly easy. The lovely new Dubai metro has a stop at the Dubai Mall. Although it is a bit of a walk along an unshaded road to from the metro to the mall itself. The At The Top counter is on the lower ground floor of the mall. One thing of note, although the first departure is 10 am, the shops, cafes and restaurants don't open until around 10 as well. So it can be tough to grab breakfast before heading up. The Burj Dubai is one of those "Been there, done that" sort of things. Some skeptics might dismiss it as trivial. But if in Dubai, i say "Go there, do that!"

Quiet in Kuwait

As I was being picked up at Kuwait international airport, my Couchsurfing host filled me in on the action. "Well, i guess i'll show you all the attractions. Traffic's pretty bad now, so assuming we are stuck for half an hour, it should take about 45 minutes to see everything!" I thought he was joking.

Of all of the Gulf States, Kuwait is usually the last one people think about visiting. Probably for good reason. A quick glance at the Wiki page for Kuwait City helps to illustrate the complete apathy for the country and city. On the bright side, the stifling 40C+ heat is a dry heat. At least that's what i had to keep telling myself every time i burnt myself getting into a car that had been subjected to the unrelentless Kuwaiti sun for more than 37 seconds. And there is an exceptionally high level of English among the moderately educated and above. But in terms of tourist attractions, the place is pretty thin on them. It's a struggle to fill a day, never mind a holiday.Everyone i met during my stay assumed i was in Kuwait for business. Whenever i would tell anyone i was there on vacation, it would elicit the same bewildered response, "You're in Kuwait... on holiday????" The closest thing the country has to a tourist attraction are the odd Kuwait Towers. Opened in 1979, and heavily damaged during the short lived Iraqi occupation, the towers have become the symbol of the city (perhaps due to any other options). Serving as an observation deck, restaurant and water tower, they are rather prettily lit up at night. Unfortunately the attached beach is not for swimming. As a matter of fact most of the beaches in Kuwait (especially near the city) are highly polluted and swimming is heavily discouraged. The Kuwait telecommunications tower (title photo) was renamed Liberation Tower after Iraqi troops were forced out of the country. And... well... those are the landmarks.

Kuwaitis now prefer the comforts of air-conditioned super malls with their brand names and sparkly flashing lights. But there are a couple of older markets to check out. None are the traditional market you might find in other Middle Eastern countries, but they might be enough to fill in all the extra time. Apparently the aquarium, and scientific centre as a whole, is worth checking out, but i didn't bother going. Outside the city there's desert, plenty of it. But it's not the Lawrence of Arabia sweeping sand dunes with caravans of camels. Instead it's a flat, featureless oil production zone. Although the oil facilities are cool (it's illegal to take pictures, please ignore the last pic in this post) to see at night as the ignite the dark desert sky.

Kuwait is safe. Kuwait is super expensive. Kuwait is... sadly... quite boring. While i have no reason to dissuade anyone from going, i most certainly would never recommend it. I, for one, won't be returning any time soon.

A Bean in Transit

While the world seems to grow up around me. Adults are having babies and buying houses and whatever it is that "grown ups" do, but i am content with my self diagnosis of Peter Pan syndrome. Having chosen the life of a nomad, it is understandably difficult to maintain relationships with folks from the past. Time passes, lives diverge and priorities change. But imagine my surprise when i sent a notice out into the world of social networking that i had an extended layover in Boston. Having never been there (or at least i don't remember being there) i figured i stood little chance of meeting up with anyone. But low and behold, there was a variable cavalcade of old friends who answered my cry into the dark of night.

With only 9 hours between my flights from Ottawa to the next one to Reykjavik, i can hardly call myself an expert on Beantown. But as i stepped off the plane, a old travel buddy i met while living in Azerbaijan was there waiting. There's something sexy about being picked up by a bad ass motorbike, leather vest and cool dude sunnies included. As we snaked our way the the streets of Boston, i got the impression of history. Keeping in mind that in the Americas 100 years is old (just like in Europe 100 kms is far). Passing old churches and the oldest pub then another old church then some old guys house, Boston is a treasure trove of historical sites.

But this ain't no one trick pony. Boston is a happening little town. Great bar life, respectable sports teams and a thriving tourist industry. But on this trip, none of that mattered. This was a rest stop to be filled with faces from the past, my theatre days to be exact. And even though more than a decade had passed, there was no pause for a "hug check", hugs were flying freely. It's fair to say that since being on tour, each of our lives have gone in completely different directions. But somehow a moment shared between strangers, what seems like a lifetime ago, has made us friends for life.

Of course Boston has it's sites. In a geographic region still in it's relative infancy in terms of history, Boston probably has more than it's fair share of sites. I quite liked the place. Perhaps having a bowl of clam chowder while downing a Sam Adams waiting for your lobster (apparently from Maine) may be simply dismissed as tourist tat. Personally, i say go for it. My nine hours in Boston were filled with all the highlights you might read about in a sort of guidebook or a "visit Boston" tourist brochure. Naysayers may be quick to dismiss my visit as superficial or even "typical". But sometimes travelling isn't about seeing new places, trying different things or escaping a boring life. From time to time travelling can be about seeing old faces, doing the same things and revisiting a life almost forgotten.

C-eh-N-eh-D-eh

Call it a Canadian crusade, a patriotic pilgrimage or a jingoistic jaunt, but a visit to one's national capital is a must. My last visit to Ottawa, capital of my native Canada, was way back in high school. Since then, i'v spent the majority of my adult life living and working overseas. Bu as the fates would have it, i was "forced" to do some paperwork for my Yemeni work visa in Ottawa and only Ottawa. Although my trip was a logistic one, i didn't mean i couldn't re-take in a few sites.

I'd love to sit here writing about great museums or suggesting hidden little restaurants i found, but that's not going to happen. After all, i only had about 36 hours in the city. A chunk of that was allocated to dealing with the Yemeni embassy (which understandably was not that busy). And an unfortunate lost bag (DAMN Delta) added an unwanted stress while reducing free time to explore. As if that wasn't enough, this was likely my last chance to pick up "western" stuff before heading off to the Middle East. Luckily, i managed to hook up with a great couchsurfing host and the weather was awesome. But even with paperwork problems, baggage worries and shopping woes, there was no way i was going to skip some of the easy highlights of town. Or i guess i should say main highlight, parliament.

OK. The Parliament building will never be in the running for the new, new 7 wonders of the world. And i don't think i have ever heard anyone say "Before i die, i must see the parliament in Ottawa". But it's ours. With all of it's non-confrontational, borderline complacent politics that have happened in it's hallowed halls since 1916. The centreblock building, the main edifice, is "important" enough to be feature on 3 different Canadian denominations of money ($10, $20, $50). There are a few other things to check out in town, but with limited time, i simply strolled the rather multicultural streets. Unlike some other political capitals (Canberra, Ankara...) Ottawa has a relatively young population mixed with the boring political suits. Due to the university i suppose. Cool outdoor cafes, plenty of pubs and pool halls and every cuisine imaginable, the town has enough to quench any thirst and stop any rumbling bellies.

After all my travels, the first question i'm often asked is "What's your favourite place?". Ottawa, sadly, would not be my answer. It actually wouldn't make the top 50. I had thought that my forced visit was a curse, but it turned out to be a blessing. Perhaps it's more of a nationalistic endearment, but any tourist should most certainly add Ottawa any itinerary of Canada.

Cartloads of Cartagena

The travelling world tends to throw out the phrase "off the beaten track" in copious amounts these days. The term may mean different things to different people. Colombia can't compare to France or Mexico in terms of tourism numbers. The portrayal of the country is often one of drugs and kidnappings and other things which don't seem to fit well on a tourist brochure. For some, this alone would qualify Colombia as a remote, untouched and adventurous land. But the fact of the matter is Colombia has been drawing tourists in for years. Likely the biggest tourist draw in the country is the port city of Cartagena, with it's steady stream of cruise ships. I guess 1.3 million tourists a year can't all be wrong.

The site of the modern Cartagena can trace it's origins back literally 1,000s of years. The area experienced it's typical rises and falls over the millennia, but it wasn't until the 1,500s that Cartagena began to take the shape we see today. Initial attempt to settle were unsuccessful. The first one, Antigua del Darien, and the second, San Sebastian de Uraba, were unfavourable when compared to other already established ports at nearby islands. But in 1533, Cartagena de Indias finally took hold. Growth was slow, but steady. Until around 1586, when the whole city was captured and a hefty ransom was demanded from the Spanish. After the humiliation, Spain poured what at the time was equivalent to trillions of dollars to sure up the place and in turn to pretty it up a bit.

Blah, blah, blah stuff happened. Governors, viceroys, independence blah, blah, blah. But the end result is a wonderful old walled city which, in 1984, was added to UNESCO's world heritage list. Narrow cobbled stoned streets criss-cross their ways around towering church domes, pastel coloured facades and public squares. Shops explode onto the surrounding sidewalks and impromptu souvenir vendors set-up wherever they can find space. the old city is a functioning place. Although overrun by tourists at times, locals go about buying bread for dinner, paying phone bills and whatever it is that a normal daily grind requires.

Just outside the old city lies the Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas. Built in 1657, it's everything a fort should be with cannons and big draw-bridge type doors. It's open from 8-6 and cost C$15,000. If looking to save some money, you can get the fortified feeling by simply strolling along the old city walls. There are view to the sea and in the distance, the city beaches. The city beaches are less than spectacular, and it's hard to go more than 30 seconds without being hassled from someone wanting to sell sunglasses or seafood or braid you hair or whatever, but it's a beach in a city. If needing a better beach, there are trips to nearby Playa Blanca or Isla del Rosario. There are a few museums around, most of only mild interest. And of course there are more than enough churches to get your fill. Then in the evenings, hop on a party "Chiva Bus" to give you something to confess at the churches the next day.

Cartagena's airport is a almost right in the city centre, but the bus station is about a million miles away. A confusing array of buses and mini-buses and everything in between fight for your patronage. However, those in transport are less than honest and asking if the bus is direct or not will be of little use as they will tell you what they think you want to hear. I grew to strongly dislike bus drivers.

For some, Cartagena is an exotic destination that will require a fair number of Tequila shots before getting up the nerve to book a holiday. For other, it's the biggest tourist trap in the country and only to be visited if transferring buses to lesser known destinations. But irregardless of the degree of which you prefer your track beaten, Cartagena is certainly a highlight of Colombian tourism.

Treadin' water in Santa Marta

They say you never get a second chance to make a first impression. After a very unhelpful bus driver on my way out of Cartagena, the day didn't have the best beginning. Dark ominous clouds loomed over the horizon, but i made no special notice of them. After all, it was the rainy season in the middle of a rain forest. But it turned out that arriving into Santa Marta, on the north coast of Colombia, would have been better served by boat rather than bus. The clouds had unleashed a fury. The streets were flooded. And so began my first impressions.

More often than not, i understand the reasons for mass tourism. "If you build it, they will come". Whether it's a world landmark, a stunning beach, a unique activity or whatever, people flock to a place to take their turn. In Colombia, that place is Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Among domestic tourism locations, this port/beach town reigns supreme in attracting the hordes, especially around Christmas/New Year's. Foreign tourism isn't too far behind as travellers seeking to "get off the beaten track" and away from the over-touristed Cartagena usually end up here.

Sure the architecture is nice, but i would hardly call it spectacular. Even as i trudged through the flooded streets trying to find an affordable hotel that didn't threaten my life was previous thought extinct fungi, i was generally unimpressed. The big draw of the town, the beach, was a further disappointment. While i didn't expect a sandy heaven, i thought there must have been something special to draw in the tourist dollar. But no. I found the whole place to be ordinary, rather unfriendly and tragically overpriced. I simply do NOT get why everyone comes here.

There will be those (and i will say many) who will speak of a wonderful experience in Santa Marta. I am not one of those. Sure it's close to the equally popular fishing village turned tourist trap of Taganga. And it is a good jumping off point for exploring the much hyped Tayrona National Park. But i cannot understand the value of the town in and of itself. Perhaps the largely inland population of Colombia need their Caribbean fix. Perhaps foreign tourist figure there must be something to the place due to all the Caribbean starved Colombian tourists. Whatever the real reason was, it has surely been lost. While Santa Marta is not horrible by any stretch of the imagination, it is most definitely not deserving of it's tourism superiority crown.

Shake your body, baby, do Taganga!

Sometimes your fondest memories of a place are of something seemingly inconsequential. Northern Colombia is blessed with beautiful national parks, decent beaches and wonderful old cities. But while in the tiny fishing village of Tanganga, all of that took a back seat to banana and Oreo milkshakes (with a splash of rum).

But let's be realistic here. Taganga is certainly no heaven on earth. While decades ago it may have been some hidden little gem, is is most certainly not hidden anymore. During the busy season foreign tourists end up here in droves. But their number pale in comparison to the onslaught of domestic, Colombian, tourists that invade the tiny strip of sand on weekends. This is most definitely not some idyllic Caribbean getaway. Night club thump-thump there way through the night. Boats full of either fish or more likely tourist power their way to and from the shore like breaking waves. The minority of accommodation choice have sea view and most are a sweltering trek uphill. Diving is above average in the area, but with many school of questionable reputations. The town consists of 1 1/2 streets with a coupe overpriced restaurants. But the shakes are great.

On the plus side, Taganga is right on the edge of Tayrona National Park,

one of the country's finest. This is one of the more popular jumping off points to the Cuidad Perdida (lost city), Colombia's answer to Machu Picchu. And there are a couple cute little walks along the shore to less busy beaches and villages. Although anyone with a fear of heights may not want to attempt the walks as they are on the very edge of the cliffs. And in recent years, thefts have been reported. An alternative is to hire a boat. But Taganga is about getting into the groove, man. Growing out your hair, listening to some reggae and chilling in a hammock. And my personal favourite, knocking back a yummy banana & Oreo milkshake like an ambrosia of the Gods.

Getting to Taganga is a piece of cake. Mini-bus seem to constantly flow from Carrera 5 in Santa Marta. It takes about 15 minutes and costs a mere C$1,200. The ride is quite lovely.

Although the are a few hidden beaches in Tayrona that are worth a postcard, generally beaches in Northern Colombia aren't something to write home about. But if in the area and looking for some seaside action, Taganga is likely your best bet.

The Ditch

We just don't build things the way we used to. Back in the day, things were made to last. Things were made with pride. Every once and a while a we manage to build something truly amazing. The Pyramids, the Great Wall and... The Panama Canal? While most may not mention the Panama Canal in the same breath as other world wonders, it has undoubtably had a much greater impact on global economic development than all those other wonders combined.

As early as 1534, explorers toyed with the idea of creating a link between the Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean through Panama. Made sense as it was the narrowest piece of land between the two. But it wasn't until 1855 that engineers finally managed to build a railway, never mind a waterway. Finally in 1880, the French made an attempt to dig a canal through, what was then, the Colombian province of Panama. Times were tough. Poor planning and surveying proved their downfall. They attempted a sea-level canal (without canals), which ended up a bad idea. To top thing off, 10s of thousands died. Largely form diseases like yellow fever and malaria. In 1893, the French gave up.

The Americans figured they could do it so much better (big surprise). They bought the excavations from the French, and started work on a lock based canal system in May, 1904. Learning from the mistakes of the French, the Americans had better engineering, planning, housing and disease control. While worker deaths were high (an estimated 5,609 died between 1904-1914) there were far fewer than during the horrible French campaign. On August 15th, 1914 (2 years ahead of schedule) the Panama Canal was officially opened with the passage of the SS Ancon. No longer did ships have to endure the treacherous Cape Horn trip around the tip of South America to get from the Atlantic to the Pacific. This cut days of shipping routes and frankly saved lives. Food arrived fresher, passengers arrived alive and the entire global economy benefitted from the accomplishment.

The US held control of the Canal and surrounding area until 1977 when the Torrijos-Carter treaty was signed. The goal being to hand over complete control to Panama. Panamanian rejoiced on December 31st 1999, when full control was assumed by the Panama Canal Authority. A referendum was held in 2006. With an 80% majority, plans are to expand the canal at an estimated costs of around $6 billion. Today, roughly 15,000 vessel will take the 9 hours journey through the canal. Costs range anywhere from $0.36 to $331,200 (although the average is about $12,500).

Tourism is also a relatively big contributor to the canal. There are expensive tours allowing visitors to transit the canal. Alternatively, the locks have viewing platforms to see the canal in action. The easiest to reach, and probably the best set up for visitors, are the Miraflores Locks. Open from 9-5 (although there are no boats around midday) access to the viewing decks is $5. There is an decent museum and mini-theatre as well. The full package admission (deck, museum, theatre) is $8. Not to mention a souvenir shop, cafe and restaurant where you can blow a few more dollars.

Getting there is pretty simple. A taxi will cost around $6-$8 one way, or around $20 round trip + waiting time. Alternatively, buses leave from the wonderful Albrook bus terminal. Anything going to Summit Gardens, Paraiso or Gamboa will either bring you directly to Miraflores or drop you off at the turnoff (5-10 minute walk away). Buses cost around $0.50 depending on the quality of bus.

The Canal doesn't exactly qualify as a life changing site. It's actually a little boring and not terribly photogenic. But irregardless of where you are in the world, it affects you. Keeping prices of imported goods low, maintaining security and occupying senior citizens on cruise. What did we ever do before it?