Horrible Hadibo

Capital cities are often the basis by which people judge an entire region. More often than not, tourists will visit nothing more than just the capital. But on the exotic island of Socotra, off the southern coast of Yemen, nothing could be further from the truth. Hadibo, the islands capital, is completely unrepresentative of the island. And with any luck, the average traveller will spend as little time as humanly possible in this horrible little village.

One needs to understand that Yemen is the poorest country on the

Arabian peninsula. Development in the countries capital, San'a, has fallen far behind even regional brethren. So logic would dictate that a village on an island which only got an airport 8 years ago, would be struggling even more. That is certainly the case. Hadibo has one semi-paved road, inconsistent electricity, no internet connection (at least publicly) and is in a state of general disrepair. While the village is well located right on the seaside, the shores have become like a dumping ground for garbage and refuse. There are no sites to speak of, unless goats roaming the streets is your thing. Clearly one cannot expect the lap of luxury when visiting a place like Socotra. And relatively speaking, Hadibo is definitely the most developed place on the island. But it is certainly far from being my favourite place.

But my dislike for the place does not stem from the state of the village. I have travelled to (and lived in) places in far worse condition. Instead, my issue comes from the state of the people. Having lived some time now in Yemen, i have come to almost take for granted the warmth, generosity and friendliness of the Yemeni people. The smaller villages scattered around Socotra supported this experience. Except for Hadibo. The dual-pricing system imposed on tourists is one thing, but many restaurants and businesses try to cheat every possible Rial out of the ignorant tourist. Many locals seem to have no interest in helping, unless they will directly benefit from the interaction financially. But even the most simple thing, like saying "hello" will go unanswered. Perhaps it is unfair to compare Hadibo folk with those on the Yemeni mainland (or even on other parts of Socotra). And by no means do i wish to imply that every person in the capital is unfriendly. But my time in Hadibo left a very foul taste in my mouth.

Hadibo is the only place on the island with hotels. I counted 5 of them. 4 hotels are budget range where 4,000 YR will score you a simple room for the night. The best budget option is definitely the Taj Socotra Hotel. The more upscale Summer Land Hotel costs considerably more.

There are a couple simple restaurants/cafes spread around town. The restaurant at the Taj Socotra is horribly overpriced with incredibly slow service and often undercooked or cold food. Any other place would be better.

The Heart of Socotra

Socotra is kind of like a sandwich. While you need bread to hold it all together, it's the succulent centre that justifies it's existence. That pretty much describes the tiny island, off the southern coast of Yemen. Every where you look, the coasts are blessed with expansive beaches. Each seemingly more beautiful than the last. But it's not until you head into the centre of the island that Socotra's unmistakable uniqueness is discovered.

Beaches are fine, but there can be little doubt what the star

attractions of this bizarre little island are. With a mind boggling 307 endemic plants, this unique jewel of biodiversity will astound even the most unschooled botanist. Beauties like the dendrosicyos socotranus, the only cucumber plant in the world to go in tree form. Frankincense trees, from which an ancient lucrative incense (one if the gifts for the baby jesus), is found here (although not endemically). But the grand-daddy, the tree used as the poster child of the island, indeed gracing the back of the Yemeni 20 Rial coin, is the Dragon Blood Tree. It's red sap was once mistaken by the ancients to be the blood of dragons it became a highly prized medicine and dye. Although now it is mostly used for paint and varnish. It seems clear that no one has told any of these plants that the dinosaur have died off. Walking through the highlands, it feels like scenery of Jurassic Park is set in the far future.

Without question, the best place to walk among the ancients is around

the highland village of Homhil. Set in a protected area of the same name, Homhil is lousy with trees. The tiny stone village is as simple as they come. The people are super friendly. Although the initial greeting you receive as you try to wander around the village will be to deter you away from possible woman sitings. But Homhil is no one trick pony. Following a wide ravine, travellers suddenly stumble upon a modest little swimming hole. And by modest i mean spectacular. The pool sits on the very edge of a cliffside overlooking the eastern coastline. Absolutely breathtaking!

To get to the pools, even though it's a easy, straight forward stroll, a guide seems mandatory. The going rate is a ridiculous 1,000YR. For those staying overnight, it is highly recommended to have you car meet you at the bottom of the hill, walking down to the coast from the plateau in the morning. The track is not for the faint-hearted nor ill-healthed. Guiding services (again seemingly mandatory) is 2,000YR for the 1 hour walk.

To the west of the Homhil plateau lies the Dixam plateau.

Bisected by the north-south road (not the real name), at least a transit of Dixam is usual part of tourist agendas. Although not as spectacular, there are plenty of the funky trees to amusing the more cautious unwilling to make it up to the more remote Homhil. But in Dixam, it's not actually the plateau that's the highlight. You got to get down, down into the valley which trickling rivers have taken a planet's age to carve out. In particular, Wadi Dirhur, has to be one of the main stops in the area. A series of interconnect freshwater pool glimmer in all their aqua-marine pureness. Miniature waterfalls act as natural water slides as even the most jaded traveller will be temporarily inflicted with Peter Pan Syndrome. The pools make for an excellent cool down session, and are essentially deserted as the road down into the canyon could hardly be called a road at all.

As with the rest of the island (with the exception of Hadibo), there are no hotels or restaurants on either the Dixam or Homhil plateaus. That said, fully equipped camping is available at Homhil. It's 1,000YR/person/night for a tent, blanket and foam mattress. The camp guide can even cook for you. Dinner and lunch go for 1,500YR while breakfast is 800. There are toilet and washing facilities on the site. Wadi Dirhur does not have any camping facilities, however private camping is permitted.

To get up to Homhil or down into the Wadisa 4X4 is absolutely compulsory. You can get a 4X4 with driver in Hadibo for 10,000YR/day. English speaking guides will cost 3,000-4,000YR.

Without question, the centre of Socotra is the heart of the entire island. Cute villages, lovely people, bizarre trees, tranquil pools and awe-inspiring views are somehow commonplace. The beaches are nice, but no visit to Socotra would be complete without a journey to the middle.

Gettin' wet and dirty in east Socotra

"The answer, my friend, is blowing in the wind." A beach is a beach is a beach... or so it would seem. Socotra, a remote island off the coast of Yemen, is full of beaches. Darn near the entire circumference of the isolated landmass is one long beach. One would think they're all the same. But the extreme weather that plagues the island several months a year has created different beachin' (also pronounced bitchin') experiences on each of the island shores.

Socotra has a prevailing wind for the south-west. Beaches along the shore are long, but with bigger waves and steeper drop-off than other parts

of the island. To the west, unique currents have created the beautiful Detwah Lagoon. That leaves the semi-protected east. With lower wave activity and less bizarre currents, eastern Socotra offers yet a different experience. The most significant difference, of direct interest to travellers, is the excellent snorkelling opportunities available. In particular, the marine reserve of Dihamri offers a whale of a time (sorry for the lame joke). Theoretically protected from fishing (they do serve fish for dinner), the reserve has a rather healthy coral corral with a variety of parrot fish, trumpetfish, butterfly fish and other such Finding Nemo stand ins to delight even the most experience snorkelers. Shockingly good quality gear is available to rent, 1,000YR for a mask and snorkel, 500YR for fins. There is also the only "entrance fee" on the island, with admission costing 500YR.

Driving along the coast, one is amazed by the dazzling blue sea.

It gets to a point that you simply can't tell where the sea ends and the sky begins. But once you reach Arhil Beach, the effect is amplified a million times. Towering sand dunes of near blinding white, act as a intermediary between the looming cliff sides and the mellow sea. Sand boarding seems to have become a popular distraction, although it was unclear if you can rent boards on the island or not. Beyond the dune, the road begins to deteriorate. But even more treasures await.

The 3 km cave system, Hoq, is a little further south of Arhil Beach. Sadly, due to inclement weather, i wasn't able to visit.

The entire east coast is easily do-able as a day trip out of Hadibo. As the road is in excellent condition (at least until Arhil) any car can do the trip. Going rate was 6,000YR for the day. If hoping to go beyond Arhil, a 4x4 might be required (10,000YR)

There are no hotels or restaurants in the area. However, there are a couple of well equipped campsites. Both Dihamri Marine reserve and the village of Roosh offer a tent, mattress and blanket for 1,000 YR/person/night. Food is also available for 1,500 YR for dinner or lunch and 800 YR for breakfast. You can, of course, bring your own food.

While for me the west was best, and the dragon blood trees in the highlands grace act as a symbol for the entire island, with magnificently blue waters, behemoth sand dunes, above average snorkelling and creepy caves Eastern Socotra ain't half bad.

Wicked Western Socotra

"Go West young man!" In the early days of North American exploration, this phrase was common. It was like an encouragement for the youth of the day to head to the untamed western wilderness of fabled beauty. In North America, the fables proved true as the west is spectacular. On the remote Yemeni island of Socotra the same phrase rings true. Totally go west!!

The coastline of Socotra is essentially one long beach. The white powdery sand is ideal for strolling and camping and other beach-related-stuff. Crystal clear blue waters invite even the most aquaphobic among us. Then, to top it off, the beaches are essentially deserted leaving the whole place to yourself. Typically i'm the sort of guy who would lump nearly all beaches together. I've never been much of a beach-o-phile. But on the western shores of Socotra there awaits something special, a hidden gem with all of the above criteria. The Detwah Lagoon is easily one of the most spectacular beaches in the world. While i'm not

usually a fan of beaches, i have been to the Caribbean, SE Asia, South Pacific and all other places of beach fame. Detwah, though, is something different. Sure there are no little grass huts strung over the water with hammocks swaying in the breeze. OK, so there are no palm trees leaning over to seemingly drink from the waves. That's all too cliched for me, mere smoke and mirrors distracting from the fact that the actual beach sucks. There's none of that on Detwah. Just beach. I was even there on a stormy day. Blowing wind, crashing waves, darkened sky. And somehow the place still managed to shine. Surrounded by a jagged ring of cliff sides softened by towering sand dunes, Detwah is a definite must see.

The port of call, as it were, for the beach at Detwah is the town of Qalansiya.

The second largest town on the island (after Hadibo) Qalansiya is likely the most tourist friendly village. In many of the smaller communities, you are likely to be met by a man who will very politely suggest you not walk through town in case you see a woman. However, in Qalansiya you are more likely to be invited right in, literally (i had a great Eid lunch there). There are no sites of particular interest. But a stroll through the typical stone houses is lovely and there is plenty of burly fisherman action by the shore.

A popular side trip out of the town of Qalansiya is to take a boat to the beach by the village of Shouab. However, this is not cheap. Reported prices are in access of $65 for the return trip. Due to inclement weather, i was unable to take tis trip and can offer no pricing nor reviews.

Getting to the village is super easy. There are public mini vans that do the run from Hadibo. I was unable to get an accurate schedule other than "several". The cost should be 300 YR for locals, although the island dual pricing system for foreigners likely means 500-700 YR. The road along the north coast is in excellent condition (until the village of Qalansiya itself). As such, a 4x4 is not need to get here. A small car should cost 6,000 YR for a day trip from Hadibo (a 4x4 should cost 10,000).

There are no hotels or restaurants in Qalansiya. There is however a rather well set up camp site near the lagoon. A tent, foam mattress and blanket cost 1,000 YR/person/night. Lunch and dinner (usually fish and rice with tea) cost 1,500 YR.. Breakfast (bread, cheese and jam) goes for 800 YR. You are free to bring your own food if you so desire.

One might think that on an island full of pretty beaches, it would be impossible to pick a favourite. That's just not true. Detwah beach on the western coast of Socotra stands head and shoulders above it's competition. Add to this the cute and welcoming village of Qalansiya and it makes for one of the best day trips on the island. Such easy access does come at a price as this is likely the most visited part of the island. Considering the low tourist numbers in Yemen, even busy beaches are empty. There aren't many places left that can offer you a lost paradise all to yourself. Socotra would be one of those few.

The Socotran South

For some, the Yemeni island of Socotra may seem like the very edge of the existence. There was a time that attempting to visit the southern coast was a bit of overkill. Kind of like arriving at the end of the world, and then jumping off. Roads were bad, if they could even be called roads. But times have changed. Since the airport opened in 2002, and the tourists started coming, the central Yemeni government in San'a has been pouring money into it. Not to mention various NGOs looking for a little spotlight. Now the southern coast is a simple day trip out of the island capital of Hadibo.

Pretty much the entire circumference of the 3,625 km2 island of Socotra is beach. There are some places with longs stretches and some places are more spectacular than others. Nearly the whole length of the southern coast is covered by one continuous stretch of white sandy shores. Fine, white sand carries on to the horizon and beyond. Only occasionally are the pristine beaches rudely interrupted by the odd head land or rocky outcropping. There aren't even any villages to speak of. Small collections of half a dozen houses or so are randomly dispersed, far enough away from each other to remain private, yet close enough not to be isolated. If you get up early enough, you might catch the fishermen heading out to sea for the day. But otherwise, the only life you're likely to see on the kilometres of sandy bliss are a few goats and plenty of crabs. The waters are warm. The waves are generally small (at least in the non-windy season). BUT... unless you're a serious sand-o-phile or a practicing sand-ologist there is absolutely nothing on these beaches. No restaurants and no hotels may sound idyllic for the first several hours, but when left alone with your thoughts, it can be shocking to find out how few thoughts you have. I have never really been a fan of beaches. Never really understood what the attraction was. The beaches along the southern coast are long, clean and deserted. I've heard that's what people look for in a beach. So i guess by that definition, they're nice. But there are nicer and more interesting beaches on the island.

Socotra is riddled with caves. Many of which remain undiscovered and unexplored. In the south, a rather large cavern has implanted itself into the steep cliff sides that mark the edge of the central plateau. Easily seen from the shore, the yawning mouth of the Dogub Cave sit waiting to engulf any passers-by. The inside of the cave is large, but rather unspectacular. There is only one dark and spooky tunnel worthy of horror movie status, but it's small and would require crawling. Locals like the cave, often passing the time chewing qat (a mildly narcotic plant). There are a few goat pens and... well... that's about it.

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To the far east of the south, was one of my favourite parts of the island. At about the end of the road, sand dunes arise as if auditioning for Lawrence of Arabia. In a scene that would be more fitting in the depths of the Sahara desert (been there, done that) that same sand that covers that beach explores it's alternative side. I guess, when travelling, i prefer something a little different. Beaches are beaches. Caves are caves. Purest will undoubtably disagree with lumping these all together. To each their own. But for some reason, i find deserts mystical. While these dunes on the eastern edge of Nojed don't qualify as a desert, the sure do a fine impression of the rolling dunes (and even the odd camel) as fantastically portrayed by every Hollywood movie. This was my favourite part of a rather ordinary (by comparison) southern coast.

Getting to the southern coast now is super easy. There are 2 1/2 roads from the north. The western road is completely paved and in top notch condition. The central road is another story. Due to recent rains, locals drivers seemed unwilling to take this one. The coastal ring road isn't finished yet (in 2 years maybe?). Until that time, it is not possible to follow along the coast. If basing yourself in the capital, Hadibo, the south can be easily done as a day trip. There is no need for a 4x4 (10,ooo YR) meaning you can take any car (6,000 YR)

Staying in the south is limited to camp grounds on the beach. A tent, mattress and blanket will cost 1,000 YR/person/night. There are basic toilet and showering facilities. You're welcome to bring your own food, otherwise the camp site "director" will cook for you. Lunches and dinners cost 1,500 YR (usually fish and rice) and breakfast is 800 YR (bread, cheese and jam).

The island of Socotra is a wonderful place. It seem each location you visit is more spectacular than the last. With some pretty tough competition from other parts of the island, the south is likely the least impressive. That said, 4th place on Socotra would still be #1 almost anywhere else in the world.

Socotra 101

The internet is great. You can find information on anything,anyone and anywhere you so desire. So when i was researching my trip to the Yemeni island of Socotra, i assumed there would be a plethora of useful tid-bits plastered on a multitude of sites. After all, touted the "Galapagos of the Indian Ocean", Socotra is arguably the single greatest attraction for many wanting to visit Yemen. But as i started looking, i was shocked by the lack of anything accept 5 year old pictures of dragon blood trees trees.

Getting there: Firstly, you need to get to the island. There were rumours of a ferry that leaves al-Mukalla. However, when i asked a few locals, they said it hasn't operated for years. I can't absolutely verify this information, it's just what the locals told me. That means you have to fly. Yemen's national carrier, Yemenia, doesn't technically do domestic flights anymore. It's partner, Felix Airways, handles these flights now. There are daily flights to the island, from different cities on the mainland. Any flight to/from San'a will make a pit stop in al-Mukalla (don't get off, you're aren't there yet). There is also 1 weekly flight to Aden. All flight range from $100-$150 depending on your destination. There are no discounts for round-trip tickets, it's just double the one-way fare. It is absolutely VITAL that you go to the Socotra airport a good 2 hours before your flight. Overbookings are incredibly common (happened to me). If this happens, it's a first come first serve basis. The check in desk is after security, so you won't even get a chance to argue your case. You will be rebooked on the next day (no charge), and they will even pay for a hotel (one of the cheap ones).

Staying there: There are basically two options on where to stay on the island. You can either stay in a hotel in the capital Hadibo or at one of the campsites around the island. There are NO hotels outside of the capital, nor are village stays possible. There are 5 hotels that i noticed. 4 of them are budget range, with 1 being upscale. There is a definite dual-tier pricing system, one price for locals and one for foreigners. The budget hotels are 4,000 YR/night for a simple double (3,500 for "locals"). Of the 4, Taj Socotra Hotel is certainly the best (and most popular). The 1 luxury hotel, Summer Land Hotel, is much more expensive. I was quoted prices anywhere from $70-$150.

There are pre-arranged camping sites at a number of places around the island. I noted 5. In the west by Qalansiya, in the east at Dihamri Marine reserve and Roosh, in the south at Nojed and in the mountains at Homhil. Prices and services are the same for all. It's 1,000 YR/person for a tent. The tents are in shockingly good condition. You are also provided with a foam mattress and a blanket (the nights get cold). As for food, it's 1,500 YR for dinner or lunch (usually potatoes, fish, rice and tea) and 800 YR for breakfast (bread, jam, honey, cheese and tea). You can bring your own food, some large groups even bring their own chef. There is also camping in Wadi Dirhur, but there are no services, you must bring everything yourself. Considering the new UNESCO Heritage listing for Socotra, it is highly frowned upon to camp just anywhere.

Getting Around: Reports of transport on Socotra (either in the LP or on-line) are all WAY off. Firstly, there is a basic public transport system on the island. From the airport to Hadibo, a seat in a mini-bus costs 100 YR (took it myself) and a bus to Qalansiya will cost 500 YR. However, buses are very inconsistent and will involve a lot of waiting around. Furthermore, few people in town are willing to help out as they want foreigners to take private cars. The LP says a car & driver for the day is $65, tour agencies charge $75+. But the reality is they are MUCH cheaper. With the roads ever improving, you no longer need 4X4s to get to most parts of the island. From Qalansiya in the west, along the north road, and down past Roosh in the east, the road is in great condition and a simple car does fine. Even heading down south along the western-centre road, does not require a 4x4. You can get a car and driver in Hadibo for 6,000 YR ($30) for the day.

If you're heading to Homhil or one of the inland wadis (river bed) you will need a 4x4 which go for 10,000 YR ($50). Drivers rarely speak a word of English, so be sure to have the itinerary set before leaving Hadibo.

Guides are 3,000 to 4,000 YR/day. They have excellent English and are quite knowledgeable about the flora. At Homhil a guide down the hill is a ridiculous 2,000 YR for the 1 hour walk (or 1,000 YR to the half way pools)

What to see: Each area mentioned here will get it's own expanding blog entry. In the west, Qalansiya is the second biggest town and the Detwah Lagoon is likely the most beautiful beach you will ever see. In the east, Arhil has massive sand dunes blown up the mountain side, Dihamri Marine Reserve has excellent snorkelling. In the south, Nojed is a very long (although very ordinary) beach, Dogub cave and some sand dunes resembling a desert. In the centre, several wadis have nice fresh water pools and Homil has more dragon blood trees than you can shake a stick at.

A few notes: While Yemenis are very sensitive about foreigners taking pictures of women, Socotrans are about 1,000,000 times more so. Even little girls will dive behind any available shrubbery if they spot a camera. As incredibly tempting as it is, this is a MAJOR cultural offence. DON'T EVEN TRY!!!!!

On the beaches, foreign women will wear bikinis. While this is against local tradition, they seem to be used to it.

Food sucks and is overpriced. Do not eat at the Taj Socotra Hotel as is often undercooked as well, not to mention it takes forever for them to bring it to you.

Hitchhiking, although possible, is not a responsible way to promote sustainable tourism. Don't steal from the poor.

Good maps are extremely hard to come by. Even google maps is horrible. The 2007 Lonely Planet (regarding Socotra) is easily the single worst guidebook ever published. It is of no use other than fuel for a fire on cold nights. Place names are wrong, prices are not even close and descriptions are more flowery than useful.

Socotra is absolutely safe. The problems plaguing the mainland are nowhere to be found on the island. There isn't even petty theft. Biggest concern will be an over amorous goat.

You can see a few articles in Yemeni papers at Yemen Times, Yemen Post, Saba Net and Yemen Today.

Overall Impression: Socotra was a bit of an emotional roller-coaster for me. One day, i'd have a terrible experience being overcharged for horrible food simply because i was foreign, then the next day i'd meet the nicest guy who invited me in for lunch. In general, everyone outside of Hadibo is awesome. But those involved in tourism leave something to be desired.

The island is beautiful. Even though i'm not a beach person, even i was left breathless. I had planned 4 nights on the island, which was about right. Being stranded for the 5th night, after the flight was overbooked, was just 1 too many.

The island is magical. Without question it is not only a star attraction in Yemen, but increasingly it is being recognized as a major worldwide treasure. Get here before it changes.