Rebirth of Nizwa

When one thinks of major monuments, places like the Pyramids or the Taj Mahal or Machu Picchu might pop into mind. Oman has none of these. As a matter of fact, 4 of Oman's 5 UNESCO heritage listed sites (including a delisted one) include a park, a trading route, a watering system and an archeological site. The other being the counties only real "monument". So in a region devoid of famous buildings, the town of Nizwa (2 hours west of the capital Muscat) has stepped in to fill the gap.

Nizwa really rose to power around the 6th and 7th centuries about the time Islam came to Oman. Due to the influx of commerce into the region,

numerous mosque and universities established themselves in the town. Nizwa beacame a major centre of trade, art, religion and studies. It was even the capital of Oman at that time. Considerably more conservative than most other cities in the region, Nizwa became somewhat closed off. Eventually building a massive, rotund fortress tower in the 17th century to vehemently defend it's territory and it's ideals. As life ticked on for a couple hundred years, around the 1950s, the then Sultan Said bin Taymour considered the city and it's people as an obstacle and possible threat to his plans ordering the British Royal Air Force to bomb the city, and the fort tower. But in the 1970s, the new Sultan Qaboos realized the importance of the historical town, and has been on a mission to breathe life back into the city. A new highway was built to Muscat. Hospitals were constructed. The old town rebuilt. The result? Nizwa is now the second most visited city in the country.

Without question, the town's principal attraction is the city's fort

and souq (market) complex. Entering through any of the "old towns'" gates is like a step back through time (although completely renovated) While the market area is free to stroll around, the rather portly fort tower will cost 500 Baisa to enter. But the fee is worth it. There are some decent displays disperse in the labyrinth or rooms and underground passageways. But it is the views over the town that are the real highlight. Spiralling upwards through the towers belly, trap doors and murder holes are highlighted. Once at the top, a few more stair lead off in all direction giving wonderful views over the town, palm plantations and mountains. The fort closes fairly early (4 pm on most days). While the midday sun might make wandering around tough, be sure not to leave it until too late.

The souk area is relatively expansive, with a number of areas

to explore. Fruit markets, fish markets, silver market, pottery market and a number of other crafts of expertise are up for offer. Of particular interest is the fruit and meat markets. Although the new buildings are rather unattractive, complete with florescent lights, it is great for people watching. While locals don't need postcards or plastic knives, everyone's got to eat. In general, vendors are not pushy.

A quality usually associated with tourist markets. It's an easy place to stroll around,taking pictures or leisurely shop. But if the new and remodelled isn't your cup of tea, in the alleyways beyond the markets are the remnants of the old city. This is the residential area, still inhabited today. The traditional buildings lie in various states of breakdown. Many of the mud and clay constructions have been left to decay, returning to the Earth which once gave them life. The alleys are peaceful with nothing more than the occasional "hello" to break the silence. This is the old town that seems to be lacking in most other cities in the country.

There are a few other points of interest in the area. The al-Hoota cave is rumoured to be popular, but as with many other out-of-town attraction in Oman, the caves are only accessible by car or tour. One of Oman's UNESCO Heritage listed sites can be seen here, the Aflaj water transport system.

Getting to the city is super easy as darn near every bus going

in any direction eventually passes through Nizwa. Whether south from the UAE or north from Salalah (not to mention direct from Muscat) you won't be waiting long. The state run, Oman National Transport co. has a couple services a day for 1.9 OM. Nizwa has an airport, but it is not international. The biggest issue in the city is accommodation. Even with a growing tourism industry, there aren't many hotels. The only ones i managed to see were on the Muscat-Nizwa highway some 5+ KMs out of the city centre. There are minibuses that do the route (200 Baisa) but they can be sparse at times. The hotels were among the worst value i stayed in the country with a cheap room going for 16 OR.

Nizwa has the history that seems to be lacking in much of the country. While there are forts everywhere, few can compare to the size of the one in Nizwa. I quite liked the town. And would easily recommend it.