Salalah, blah blah blah

Sometimes travelling in the off-season sucks. While visiting a place out of peak season can assure discounts and hotel beds, there is more often than not a reason why tourists don't go to that particular place at that time of year. There are times it doesn't matter. I rather enjoyed Iceland in the winter. But there are times when it makes or breaks the experience. The city of Salalah, in southern Oman, most certainly has a peak season. The Khareef (monsoon season) sees the city overflow with tourists from June to September. Extra flights and bus services are added to accommodate the influx of visitor looking for waterfalls, green pastures and misty seaside roads. But i wasn't there in July or August.

The city of Salalah is... well... a city. Oman's second largest

city to be more specific. And while the thriving port and ancient frankincense trade have supported the city for the better part of two centuries the city itself is remarkable for it's unspectacularness. The town is super isolated. It's essentially grenade tossing distance to the often volatile Yemeni border to the west. And to the east lies nothing. I mean absolutely nothing. A 10 hour mind numbing drive through some of the most unexceptional landscape on Earth. it is not "Hollywood desert" with towering dunes and camel caravans, but instead a gravel sandpit where tiny rocks go to die. Sure the Khareef in Salalah offers a unique opportunity to see the desert spring to life. But outside that short season, Salalah is really nothing more than a sleepy dustbowl with little to entertain the average visitor.

But you have to play to your strengths. Being a coastal town,

Salalah has an extensive beach. And despite the industrial nature of the port area, the beach is shockingly clean and garbage free. The soft white sands stretch past the horizon with nothing but seagulls and crabs to impede your infinite strolling. The lack of pedestrian traffic is also a bit of a curse as there are few seaside cafes other than those at the overpriced hotels. Along the beach, you will undoubtablycome across Sultan Qaboos Palace. Although mostly close to the public (i guess the Sultan likes his privacy) there are a few random glimpses into the royalty from the beach or street. Near the palace the al-Husn Souq (old market) is promoted as a great place to pick up souvenirs. However, this is nothing like a traditional souq, it is merely a collection of street side shops. Sadly, the new souq area is no better. Not only is it just a bunch of store, but construction of a new high volume avenue will surely mean it will be a noisy, pointless experience.

However, where the city does shine is in the fantabulous fish and

meat souq next to the "new souq". Although newly constructed, this is one of the most lively markets in the country and a fantastic place for people watching. Locals in all fashions of traditional dress haggle over the price of the daily catch as they have since the dawn of man. "Oh, but this was my prize-winning, female, racing sheep!" Or some other sales techniques are attempted followed by a flurry of hand gestures, walking away, arm grabbing, laughing and finally purchasing. There are several simple cafes set up around the area giving front row centre seats for one of my favourite types of shows on Earth. Although best visited in the mornings, the action continues on pretty late into the day. This market is easily the highlight of the city. And most certainly one of my favourites i came across in the country.

Other than that, the city doesn't really have too much to offer. While there are a few "attractions" in the surrounding area, they are no accessible by public transport. Meaning either overpriced tours or self driving.

If trying to kill some time, the ruins of al-Baleed are within

the city limits. A rather extensive site (formerly known as Dhofar), al-Baleed was the first real fishing port in the region. Although some settlements have been dated to 400 BC, the current site most likely hit it's hey-day around the 10th century. A ridiculous 2 OR entrance fee (4 times what most sites cost) will give you access to the ground and the newly constructed museum. The seaside location is nice, and the museum is well displayed. The only way here is taxi which should go for around 500-700 Baisa from the centre.

Salalah international airport is small but functional with flights to the capital, Muscat, as well as other Gulf destinations. There are even flights to Yemen. Marathon bus journeys are offered by a number of companies (all around the new souq). Destinations include Muscat and Dubai with all going through Nizwa. Hotels in Salalah are also some of the best value in the country (at least in the off season). Although still costing 15 OM+, they area considerably nicer than those in either Nizwa or Sur.

I'm sure that the Khareef in Salalah offers a wonderful chance to watch the seemingly barren desert landscape spring to life. But outside this brief window of rejuvenation, Salalah is just some port city in the middle of nowhere. While it offers a different perspective on the country from the cities in the north, for those on a time crunched visit, I'm not sure it's worth the trip.