Thursday, January 27, 2011

Thrill on Silent Hill


It can be cool living in a volcano. Once you get rid of the noxious fumes and the death-dealing molten lava that is. The heart of Aden (in southern Yemen) is in such a place. An ancient volcano, long since extinct, is only recognizable by it's circular crater. It is here that most locals and tourists come to eat, drink (juice that is) and be merry. But simply being surrounded by the saw-toothed hills which envelope the town isn't enough for some. I'm not the kind of guy who climbs hills just for the sake of climbing. I generally need a more tangible reason. Luckily, on one of the outcropping sits the Tower of Silence (best name ever).
Although it usually comes to the surprise of many tourists, Yemen
actually has quite a diverse history. Conquering armies, trading caravans and colonial occupiers have all made their mark in the history and culture of Yemen. Although predominantly Muslim (around 99.9%) there was a time of religious heterogeneity. One of these groups included the fire-worshiping religion of Zoroastrianism. Often mistaken as a fire worshipping religion, it was one of the first (if not THE first) monotheistic religions (belief in only 1 God). But the thing about the Zoroastrians is they didn't want to pollute the Earth with the dead, nor did they want to corrupt fire. So, the only logical alternative was to leave the rotting corpse to the elements and wildlife in specially constructed Towers of Silence (still a cool name).
The tower in Aden lies in complete disrepair. The few remaining followers left southern Yemen in 1967 after the end of British rule. Better resembling mere crumbling homes as opposed to once hallowed grounds, the temple in not actually the main attraction. As real estate agents often say, it's all about location, location, location!! The views from the nearby "make out" point (not the real name), are arguably the best in the city. Expansive 360-degree views range from the mountains to the sea and over the entire crater. AWESOME!!!
Getting to the Tower is fairly easy. At the edge of the crater
are the Tawila Cisterns (an attraction in themselves). From there, follow the wall that leads of to the left. At the end of the wall, take the first right. Go past the mosque where a dirt road lead up the hill to the left. It's about a 20-minute walk uphill, on a very sun-exposed road wannabe. Stair zig-zag through a makeshift shanty-town, eventually leading to the tower site. It is complete free (no one would charge for it). If you do somehow manage to get lost, just say "Parsee" (another word for Zoroastrian) and point in an upward direction. Locals are sure to help. This is Yemen after all.
video

10 comments:

markk50 said...

Hi Joe
Thanks for your very informative and entertaining stories about Yemen.
I'm visiting Yemen myself from 9th of February onwards.
What's the security situation like at the moment? Is there a website where one can find daily updates on this?
And can one pay inland flights by credit card if the need arises and overland travel becomes impossible?
I read somewhere (maybe on Lonely Planet's forum) that you're an English teacher?
Now, I'm an English teacher as well in Switzerland, with hardly any international experience, though, aged 50.
I'm not exactly a couch surfer, but it might be nice to get to know each other to exchange some travel stories? I travelled a lot from 1980 up to around 2000 until the kids had to go to school.
I'll be in Aden around the 20th of February.
Keep cool, Mark.

This is Joe! said...

There aren't any organized websites short of the state department which over-hypes everything.

Protests in San'a are increasing in numbers day-by-day, but are still peaceful. Other cities are seeing very little of it.

The typical places like Abyan, Shabwa, Sa'ada and Marib are still no-go areas.

I have met non-CSer before. Let me know when you'll be in Aden.

markk50 said...

Thanks Joe.
I feel confident enough now to start planning my itinerary in Yemen.
I'll be in Aden from Tuesday to Wednesday February 22/23.
At the moment trying to get my flights (to Soqotra and Seiyoun) organized.
Would be great to see you in Aden.
Mark

markk50 said...

Hi Joe.
Just wondering how the situation is at the moment in Yemen.
Still tense or peaceful?
We don't seem to get much news coverage on Yemen here in Switzerland.
Thanks in advance for your answer.
Mark

This is Joe! said...

At 11 pm on Sunday, February 6th, everything is fine. That does not mean that 5 minutes from now it could all go to crap. But i believe that's true for anywhere in the world.

Can you absolutely guarantee my safety around the main station in Zurich? Or can you say that i would 100% sure be mugged? We take our chances, and deal with the consequences. I have personally never felt threatened here, and i go pretty much anywhere they'll give me permits for. Don't trust the Western media, they always need a boogieman. Recently it just happens to be Yemen.

Check out the non-state run Yemen Post http://www.yemenpost.net/

markk50 said...

OK Joe.
Thanks a lot. You're absolutely right.
I just wanted to make sure.
One day they make a big fuss about Yemen in the media, then you hear nothing for 2 weeks.
It's a nuisance they only go for sensation.
So I'm flying to Yemen next Wednesday!
And hell no, I can't guarantee your safety around Zürich main station, especially not late at night. That's the time locals avoid going there.
So thanks for putting it all into perspective.
Mark

markk50 said...

Hi Joe.
So I've landed in Jemen today, or better last night.
And spend the day wanderng around the amazing maze of the old town of Sanaa.
Everything very nice, people nice except for the odd one out.
I'll be in Aden coming Sunday late afternoon (February 13).
Give me a call then and maybe we can meet up somewhere?
My Yemenite cellphone number is: 736 866 738.
Would be great to see you!
Mark

markk50 said...

Hi Joe.
Didn't make it to Aden after all.
I'm travelling too slow or Yemen's too beautiful?
Anyway, I didn't hear from you so nothing's lost.
Maybe some other time.
Mark

This is Joe! said...

I sent an SMS which went through. When i tried to call it said "caller out of service area". Oh well, i hope you enjoyed Yemen.

markk50 said...

Oh that's a shame, really.
The SMS didn't get to me and when you called I was actually in Taizz, so I don't know why the call didn't get through.
But that's Yemen..... today my flight to Seyun was cancelled, so I was booked for tomorrow.
It's pretty stupid though, standing at the airport, waiting.
I still have a week here, Seyun and Soqotra, if all goes well.
All the best to you, Joe.